how to flatten a horn?

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Don't throw out your cheap stuff, as any cooking oil will work just fine and actually cheaper to buy and easier to store than lard. Just let it cool, put back in bottle and store to next time.
 
Thanks on that 10 second in and out method. On BUFFALO horn, the material seems to become pliable from boiling in water but I tried the same on cow horn and the horn wants to "bounce back" to its original shape. You really need the oil. I have several "test" plugs of various sizes that are tapered. The drill is to soften the oval horn and stick in a test plug and let the horn cool/dry. This test plug must be moved a little from time to time or it might get stuck in position. I didn't boil the horn enough in the oil to make a flat horn and it still had a slight amount of spring but for my purposes it was okay to get a round plug into the end.
I want to experiment more with horn. I think on the thick pieces you can cut sections and boil- press flat- and use for knife scales, etc.
 
palonghunter said:
I have set my oven at 350 degrees and put a Pyrodex bowl of oil in there for about half an hour, then pull the bowl out and dunk the horn in to soften it. It works, but it's slower than a fryer because you have to keep reheating the oil.

I sure hope you mean a "Pyrex" bowl... :wink:
 
pondoro said:
palonghunter said:
I have set my oven at 350 degrees and put a Pyrodex bowl of oil in there for about half an hour, then pull the bowl out and dunk the horn in to soften it. It works, but it's slower than a fryer because you have to keep reheating the oil.

I sure hope you mean a "Pyrex" bowl... :wink:

:metoo: I didn't catch that the first time around!.. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:
 
horner75 said:
Don't throw out your cheap stuff, as any cooking oil will work just fine and actually cheaper to buy and easier to store than lard. Just let it cool, put back in bottle and store to next time.

that's what I do ...


you mean, I'm doing something right??!!

quick ... tell my kids and my wife (not that they'd believe you, but it would be nice to hear...)

(sorry - didn't mean to hijack the thread)

on that note, I am still having reservations about pulling a bowl of hot oil out of the oven and putting the horn in the oil... can't help but see the family dog picking that moment to 'cop a nutty' and the disaster ensues .. bad 'ju ju' all 'round ...
 
horner75 Here's a good newby book written by a good friend of mine. It will answer all of your questions. [url said:
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/76/1/BOOK-R18CPH
[/url]


Thank you. Incidentally enough, I did actually pick up that exact book today, find it to be a great book, and it does answer all of my questions. Your recommendation of the book reinforces my confidence in the information that it provides.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
warning

warning

warning


if you purchase this book, you will soon have a zillion horns, in various stages of completion... you will have at least one horn for each and every gun that you own.


this can be very tricky: have you ever tried to explain to SWMBO why you're building a horn for an AR-15?
 
I actually bought it already between the time that I asked the question originally and Horner recommending the book to me. The owner of the ML supply shop actually recommended the Sibley book Horner mentioned over a book there that cost almost twice as much :shocked2:

I am very happy with the book, and bought 3 raw horns and some cherry scrap, rit dye, roll of burlap strap, johnsons paste wax, and a second deep fryer to add to my work area



:grin:
 
MSW said:
Obi-Wan, you're hooked for sure!

I fear you are correct. I've been shaving the bark (?) off my raw horns with a carving knife...it is just shave-shave-shave :hmm:
shave-shave-shave :hmm:
shave-shave-shave :hmm:

Like digging for treasure or an itch I can't scratch. The plant to animal marriage in the design of horn crafting is also very intriguing. :grin:
 
How did 18th century hornsmiths flatten or shape horns?

I got asked that question at a wood store the other day. If I had to guess: passing a glowing hot poker above it by several inches until it became malleable?
 
BBQ grill will work to heat, but you run the risk of burning the horns where the grill wires touch the horn. A heat gun will work, but you run a high risk of toasting it unevenly and getting brown and brittle spots in it. I do use this method, but have learned what I am doing by ruining some horns.

I prefer the FryDaddy with an adjustable heat dial and also use a good thermometer. On the other hand, the bubbles/foam and tapping against the side are the best indicators of when a horn is truly ready.

Ditto the eye and hand protection. I often wear a leather apron as well.

CS
 
you mean, there were n BBQ grills in the 18th century?! but if that's the case, what did they use to grill their tofu burgers while they took selfies of one another?
 
Cooking over coals and using distance from the heat is an ancient method of heating things. Using a BBQ grill for this purpose is a fairly recent method, but the concept is the same - just the container has changed. Heating or cooking items in a pot of water or lard is also not a new concept. Again, only the container has changed for our convenience.

The principles are the same.

As to the heat gun, I have no answer aside from the fact that if you are very skilled and careful, it works pretty well for one or two horns. After that, the fry daddy is better.
 
Just a little additional information on using hot cooking oil over a hot air gun. This week I received a supply of nine cow horns from my supplier and them and 11 other raw cow horns in my horn supply box, including one buffalo horn I finally got around to trimming, drilling and hot oil shaping yesterday morning.

In the time of about 5 hours, I did the above preliminary work including flattening 14 and rounding the cow/buffalo plug end of them for future use.

My point here is not to brag or show anybody how fast I did them, but to give all an idea that it doesn't really take all that long to flatten or round the bodies and base area of cow horn for powder horn. __ If your wondering. I only leave the flattened horn in the vise for flattening, then move them and re-clamp in large C-clamps with wood piece's for cooling. That way I can crank-out my flattening procedure more quickly.

That's the main reason I'm sold on using hot cooking oil!

Rick
 
horner75 said:
I only leave the flattened horn in the vise for flattening, then move them and re-clamp in large C-clamps with wood piece's for cooling.

The first half of this statement confuses me, could you please elaborate? Thank you.
 
He's running several horns in a series of shaping and flattening,(5hrs work)
The vice work isn't just a one time squeeze, it's working the shape as it compresses,, cause each horns grain is a little different, twisting, bending, curving,,, working it to get it where he wants.
Then swap out to the board clamps to cool and hold that shape as he moves another to the vice.
 
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