how to flatten a horn?

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Ok, thank you. I originally thought you shaped them by hand using a couple of 2x4 blocks in between deep fry dunks prior to placing them in the c-clamps to cool. Thank you for clearing that up.
 
necchi said:
He's running several horns in a series of shaping and flattening,(5hrs work)
The vice work isn't just a one time squeeze, it's working the shape as it compresses,, cause each horns grain is a little different, twisting, bending, curving,,, working it to get it where he wants.
Then swap out to the board clamps to cool and hold that shape as he moves another to the vice.

Thank you Necchi for explaining it to him.
 
Obi-Wan Cannoli said:
Ok, thank you. I originally thought you shaped them by hand using a couple of 2x4 blocks in between deep fry dunks prior to placing them in the c-clamps to cool. Thank you for clearing that up.

IMO such an arrangement will not properly limit the amount of pressing or give a good internal result for your horn. Nothing lines up the sides if only pressed from outside and not shaped internally.

Most people use a series of wedges inside the horn rather than a one piece mould. These make the inner shape when pressed in a padded vise. A variety of wedges with the same side widths, but varying along their arc are needed to match up with the particular horn. Might not have stated that correctly, but I think that you might be able to puzzle it out.

I have seen vises padded with leather or wood and either can give a good result.
 
If you need to adjust it after it cools down for the night, can you re-deep fry it, or would that destroy the horn?

The wedges, are they only to help shape the base of the horn, or do they need to run the whole length of the horn?


Thank you.
 
horner75 said:
You can reheat the horn(s). Generally, you should cut a form to fit the entire inside length of a flattened horn procedure. Makes a nicer horn.

I agree on the length.

I tried a one size-fits-all and had no luck. People told me to try a few wedges together.

Do you have a few wedges to put together and thereby fill the varying widths and tapers of horn?
 
CrackStock said:
Do you have a few wedges to put together and thereby fill the varying widths and tapers of horn?

I will probably have to make them, unless there is some neat trick or simple item that I can use instead?

I am finishing up on my 3rd lathe, and I just now saw Horner's amazing thrift store wooden bat slices for horn sizers advice... :redface:

Do you have pictures of what the wedges should look like?

Thank you.
 
CrackStock said:
horner75 said:
You can reheat the horn(s). Generally, you should cut a form to fit the entire inside length of a flattened horn procedure. Makes a nicer horn.

I agree on the length.

I tried a one size-fits-all and had no luck. People told me to try a few wedges together.

Do you have a few wedges to put together and thereby fill the varying widths and tapers of horn?

CS, I have a half bucket full of many different size's of flat horn forms and if I don't have one that is the size I need, it only takes a few minutes to cut one out on the band saw. You don't have to be to exacting on trying to have a perfect fitted form, as the form is mainly needed to keep the horn body from collapsing inward during pressing. As you probably already know, there is usually a gap above and below the form when you put in into the horn. I save small lengths of various sizes of wood dowels and cut them down the center length wise and taper a bit at the inward end. I fill that gap I mentioned with one of these half dowel wedges taped into the top gap and bottom gap to round-out the flat horn form. ____ There's probably better ways of doing this, but it works for me.
 
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