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How to ream cylinders and to what size?

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fishmusic

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I understand that perhaps the cylinder diameters might be smaller than the bore diameter of the barrel and thus not engage the rifling fully. I would like to have the cylinders reamed on my Pietta Colt navy in .36 caliber. So, how is this done and is it something I can do at home? I bow to the experts on this and someday hope to achieve that status. I do not have reamers or gauge pins for measuring.
 
I understand that perhaps the cylinder diameters might be smaller than the bore diameter of the barrel and thus not engage the rifling fully. I would like to have the cylinders reamed on my Pietta Colt navy in .36 caliber. So, how is this done and is it something I can do at home? I bow to the experts on this and someday hope to achieve that status. I do not have reamers or gauge pins for measuring.
What did you end up doing? I’ve been wondering what a .36 cal would be reamed to. I think the Uberti Colt Pocket .36s have a .373” groove diameter so chambers of .374 or 5” should do the trick.
 
.375 with a .380 ball works well.
Did you find a sufficient reamer? A hand reamer by chance? Or did you have to send it off?

I’ve eyed a hand reamer for my Pietta Remington that’s been reamed to .449”. It has a .4535” groove. Not sure what my Ruger’s are but .453-4” sounds good to me. However I’m hesitant as I’ve read you can ruin them.
 
I'm going through this right now. I have a Remington .44 cylinder that measures .446" and want to ream it out to .450/.451". I considered purchasing a chucking reamer. Cost-about $40 to $150+. You would need a good set up to be able to accurately position the reamer and keep it true. In the end I didn't want to take a chance on screwing up my cylinder so I sent it off to Charlie Hahn about 4 weeks ago and should get it back in the next few days. Cost? I don't know yet and don't much care. I am happy that the work is being done by a very experienced and respected gunsmith. I will post range test results when done.
 
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I'm going through this right now. I have a Remington .44 cylinder that measures .446" and want to ream it out to .500/.501". I considered purchasing a chucking reamer. Cost-about $40 to $150+. You would need a good set up to be able to accurately position the reamer and keep it true. In the end I didn't want to take a chance on screwing up my cylinder so I sent it off to Charlie Hahn about 4 weeks ago and should get it back in the next few days. Cost? I don't know yet and don't much care. I am happy that the work is being done by a very experienced and respected gunsmith. I will post range test results when done.
Curious why you’re reaming them out so large. My Pietta Remington had 0.446” chambers, now 0.449”, and has .4535” grooves.
 
Thanks for catching my mistake. I meant .450/.451 which I now corrected. Biden is not the only one with old age problems. But I am smart enough to know I could not handle being President!
Charlie does a great job and if nothing has changed, reams them to .456”. I have 4 or 5 cylinders treated thus by Charlie. I shoot bullets primarily but when using ball I cast .465” pure lead, as suggested by Pietta for use in the Shooters Model, they load easily and are very accurate.
 
Charlie does a great job and if nothing has changed, reams them to .456”. I have 4 or 5 cylinders treated thus by Charlie. I shoot bullets primarily but when using ball I cast .465” pure lead, as suggested by Pietta for use in the Shooters Model, they load easily and are very accurate.
He mentioned that but I wanted to ream out to .450 to stay with .454 stock RB's. He said it would finish out to .450+. I figured (a guess) that would improve the group without having to do any forcing cone modifications. The only matches I shoot in are little local fun matches. A gun that shoots one ragged hole at 25 yards is lost on me as I will never shoot that good but off the bench I'd like to see it shoot a 2" group or better at 25 yards. It did that, 6 rounds, one day, one time when new off the bench but never again. '58 Pietta s/s target (not shooters) model.
 
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I'm going through this right now. I have a Remington .44 cylinder that measures .446" and want to ream it out to .450/.451". I considered purchasing a chucking reamer. Cost-about $40 to $150+. You would need a good set up to be able to accurately position the reamer and keep it true. In the end I didn't want to take a chance on screwing up my cylinder so I sent it off to Charlie Hahn about 4 weeks ago and should get it back in the next few days. Cost? I don't know yet and don't much care. I am happy that the work is being done by a very experienced and respected gunsmith. I will post range test results when done.
Ditto on having a knowledgeable professional, with the correct equipment to do the work. Once you calculate the cost of tools, and your time figuring out how to do it and how long it takes you to do it......sure, you may get satisfaction out of doing it yourself...... A good machinist/smith could have it done quicker. Afterwards, you have all these tool that you may never use again.
 
What did you end up doing? I’ve been wondering what a .36 cal would be reamed to. I think the Uberti Colt Pocket .36s have a .373” groove diameter so chambers of .374 or 5” should do the trick.
I ended up sending it to a friend and got it back with .377 chamber. I swaged a ball into it and then pushed it into the forcing cone to engage the rifling. Knocked it back out and it grabs the rifling quite nicely. .368 across the lands and .375 across the grooves. It is a difficult measure since there are 7 grooves and flats. now to work up a load and see what kind of group I can get.
 
Yea barrel measuring is not easy. I got into it with the Model of 1917 Enfields. 5 grove right had twist from the Brit decision/experience for better accuracy and wear (something to do with the Cordite method of propellant I believe.

It also takes skill to use a micrometer as too little pressure or too much can distort readings easily by .001 or .002. And chambers can be a problem as the common method is to use the rounded spring loaded gauges and then transfer that via a micrometer reading.

I have seen machine shops that have a direct reading gauge for that work, has to be seriously expensive and not what you would have yourself.

Easy to see where you would likely be off in measurements not to mention the true centering issue and what distortion in the mfg of the cylinder is. Stacking error could push that off too far and you do not do any good or make it worse.

I am still pondering what I want to do with the two shooters I am going with (ROA and the Uberti Walker). Good news is they both shoot ok at my preferred distance of 25 yards. Still rested is 3-5 inch groups. Some improvement with a bit better rear notch vision on the Walker and maybe larger grips on the ROA.

Probably be fortunate to get it down to 3 inches. I hand rest for accuracy testing as I want to know what the guns can actually do a lot better. Being over 70 does not help in the standing position. Its not that I can't do it but not as steady as when I was younger and doing grunt work. Good muscle lock if not true skill back then. My step dad had the skill as he had moved up to a manager position then. Not a wimp by any means but nothing like working 10 hour days 6 days a week at true hard labor to build muscles.

Then take it to 10-15 yards for hand shooting. Walker should be a bit wild when I do that. It really needs a stock and a fore arm!
 
Yea barrel measuring is not easy. I got into it with the Model of 1917 Enfields. 5 grove right had twist from the Brit decision/experience for better accuracy and wear (something to do with the Cordite method of propellant I believe.

It also takes skill to use a micrometer as too little pressure or too much can distort readings easily by .001 or .002. And chambers can be a problem as the common method is to use the rounded spring loaded gauges and then transfer that via a micrometer reading.

I have seen machine shops that have a direct reading gauge for that work, has to be seriously expensive and not what you would have yourself.

Easy to see where you would likely be off in measurements not to mention the true centering issue and what distortion in the mfg of the cylinder is. Stacking error could push that off too far and you do not do any good or make it worse.

I am still pondering what I want to do with the two shooters I am going with (ROA and the Uberti Walker). Good news is they both shoot ok at my preferred distance of 25 yards. Still rested is 3-5 inch groups. Some improvement with a bit better rear notch vision on the Walker and maybe larger grips on the ROA.

Probably be fortunate to get it down to 3 inches. I hand rest for accuracy testing as I want to know what the guns can actually do a lot better. Being over 70 does not help in the standing position. Its not that I can't do it but not as steady as when I was younger and doing grunt work. Good muscle lock if not true skill back then. My step dad had the skill as he had moved up to a manager position then. Not a wimp by any means but nothing like working 10 hour days 6 days a week at true hard labor to build muscles.

Then take it to 10-15 yards for hand shooting. Walker should be a bit wild when I do that. It really needs a stock and a fore arm!
DSC_8381.JPGMy Walker, even though it can be cantankerous, from the bench is one of my best shooters. Better than my so called target gun. Off hand makes them about equal.DSC_8384.JPG
 
I ended up sending it to a friend and got it back with .377 chamber. I swaged a ball into it and then pushed it into the forcing cone to engage the rifling. Knocked it back out and it grabs the rifling quite nicely. .368 across the lands and .375 across the grooves. It is a difficult measure since there are 7 grooves and flats. now to work up a load and see what kind of group I can get.
I’ve long thought a Colt Pocket Police would make a nice little backpacking trail gun, but a lot of work would need to be done, including reaming and chamfering the chambers.
 
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