How to you file your front sights?

[srkmarine1101]

When I sighted this rifle in just filed the top down flat. I've seen some sights that are angled forward and come tomorrow of a point on top. Jsut wondering if there is an agreed upon proper way? I wonder if sight picture would be improved by having a sharper angle on top? Rifle is a Hawken by Brant Selb.

 

[Togo]

Just flat forward moving strokes.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I like a gentle slope from the tallest point to the front, yours looks OK if you blend the forward end of the flat you filed.

 

[wiscoaster]

..... yours looks OK if you blend the forward end of the flat you filed.

Ditto that.

 

[64Springer]

Here ya go.

 

[srkmarine1101]

I like a gentle slope from the tallest point to the front, yours looks OK if you blend the forward end of the flat you filed.

Awesome. This makes sense.

Thanks!

 

[srkmarine1101]

This

Here ya go.

Perfect! Thanks!

 

[longcruise]

I don't think it matters as long as the filed surface doesn't slope back towards your eye.

 

[Greenjoytj]

If the back edge of the sight (the edge you view) has got a curve like the sight in the OP’s photo, then sunshine will play havoc trying to get tight groups as this sun glints a moving bright spot on the curve at various spots along the curved edge as the sun tracks across the sky throughout the day.
Use a straight or undercut viewable edge as in the drawing in post #5.
Also the long unsupported blades that over hanging the dove tail is just asking to get bent one day going in and out of a gun sock.

 

[dave951]

What he said

 

[M. De Land]

When I sighted this rifle in just filed the top down flat. I've seen some sights that are angled forward and come tomorrow of a point on top. Jsut wondering if there is an agreed upon proper way? I wonder if sight picture would be improved by having a sharper angle on top? Rifle is a Hawken by Brant Selb.

I have come around to filing a forward angle on the rear of the front sight blade to pick up light. I also have learned to make a front sight wider not more narrow for better sight acuity on target or game.
I mill these from bar stock steel and also like to sweat on a brass top to make them show up in dim light.
Most folks error in thinking a thin front sight will help them be more accurate but it won't work as well as a full .100 wide square post profile on target or moving game shooting.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Carefully.

 

[LME]

When I sighted this rifle in just filed the top down flat. I've seen some sights that are angled forward and come tomorrow of a point on top. Jsut wondering if there is an agreed upon proper way? I wonder if sight picture would be improved by having a sharper angle on top? Rifle is a Hawken by Brant Selb.

Your sights are the same as mine and correct. I wouldn't change them.The rounded front of the sight catches light and helps my accuracy

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

When I sighted this rifle in just filed the top down flat. I've seen some sights that are angled forward and come tomorrow of a point on top. Jsut wondering if there is an agreed upon proper way? I wonder if sight picture would be improved by having a sharper angle on top? Rifle is a Hawken by Brant Selb.

I definitely agree with 64Springer if you want a more definitive crisp viewing front sight. My first build in the 70s has a brass sight just like your photo. I have made several rifles since and they have the Springer back slope shape.
Larry

 

[LME]

If the back edge of the sight (the edge you view) has got a curve like the sight in the OP’s photo, then sunshine will play havoc trying to get tight groups as this sun glints a moving bright spot on the curve at various spots along the curved edge as the sun tracks across the sky throughout the day.
Use a straight or undercut viewable edge as in the drawing in post #5.
Also the long unsupported blades that over hanging the dove tail is just asking to get bent one day going in and out of a gun sock.

I want the sun to glint off the face of my blade. It really helps your accuracy not hurt it and I believe this is why they are shaped that way. If you want to shoot minute of angle at a 100 yards with iron sights it is the way to go.

 

[mtfishn]

Well...to each his own, but since you asked, I'm of the camp that prefers a shaded or dark facing surface on the front sight especially for match/paper shooting. Mine is tapered toward the muzzle with the highest point toward the rear sight. A good square post, about .1"thick is fine with a 36" or longer barrel. If the barrel is shorter...may need a little thinner sight. I also sometimes add a little blackening with a match or candle (on an iron sight) or in a pinch magic marker to make sure there are no bright edges to reflect light. That being said, I'm sure the ligic with a brass front sight is to have a glint of sunlight to show up against a daker (deep woods) background while hunting. You see it on a lot of original rifles. I'm just saying I prefer a black post for most range shooting and the hunting I do.

 

[LME]

Well...to each his own, but since you asked, I'm of the camp that prefers a shaded or dark facing surface on the front sight especially for match/paper shooting. Mine is tapered toward the muzzle with the highest point toward the rear sight. A good square post, about .1"thick is fine with a 36" or longer barrel. If the barrel is shorter...may need a little thinner sight. I also sometimes add a little blackening with a match or candle (on an iron sight) or in a pinch magic marker to make sure there are no bright edges to reflect light. That being said, I'm sure the ligic with a brass front sight is to have a glint of sunlight to show up against a daker (deep woods) background while hunting. You see it on a lot of original rifles. I'm just saying I prefer a black post for most range shooting and the hunting I do.

I also like a dark post in certain conditions but to get all I can out of a rifle I have found no better way than the method I mentioned. As you said in your statement there is a reason most blades are silver, gold or brass. If it wasn't important why spend the extra time and money puting a shining bead on the blade? A good example of when it doesn;t help is on aerial andrunning targets. Then you don't have the time to to use the method I mentioned. I have tried many methods of aiming and only the way I mentioned has allowed me to shoot minute of angle at 100 yards or more. I honestly think once you understand the concept your groups will tighten up, If you already can shoot minute of angle already you have discovered another way I haven't tried yet. I have a terminal illness but I am in remission. I have thought long and hard about revealing my method to people and then I realised my method isn't my method at all as it has been around many years before I was even born.

 

[Patched]

The bullseye target shooting disciplines all use aperture sights because the eye/view will center itself in the aperture resulting in a finer discernment of any misalignments…round (as opposed to square) apertures allow for an even light refraction and often acts somewhat like a corrective lens…making the bull appear slightly smaller and crisp.
These can be effective longer range sights…especially when front and rear are wearing shading devices.
Now…on my opensights rifles, I try to avoid light reflecting surfaces when viewed from the rear…a rearward slanted rear sight and a square face slightly rearward slanting front post…there is an optimum sight picture for each individual preference…I like a very tall narrow post and a deep narrow slit in my rear…for my old eyes the narrow slit behaves similarly to an aperture….very much unlike blocky pistol sights…I never need to acquire an ultra fast sight picture…my one shot will be carefully deliberate.

 

[PathfinderNC]

What he said

Him?

 

[azmntman]

He/Him/His