How to you file your front sights?

[azmntman]

sorry

 

[srkmarine1101]

If the back edge of the sight (the edge you view) has got a curve like the sight in the OP’s photo, then sunshine will play havoc trying to get tight groups as this sun glints a moving bright spot on the curve at various spots along the curved edge as the sun tracks across the sky throughout the day.
Use a straight or undercut viewable edge as in the drawing in post #5.
Also the long unsupported blades that over hanging the dove tail is just asking to get bent one day going in and out of a gun sock.

This has absolutely been my experience.

 

[srkmarine1101]

Well...to each his own, but since you asked, I'm of the camp that prefers a shaded or dark facing surface on the front sight especially for match/paper shooting. Mine is tapered toward the muzzle with the highest point toward the rear sight. A good square post, about .1"thick is fine with a 36" or longer barrel. If the barrel is shorter...may need a little thinner sight. I also sometimes add a little blackening with a match or candle (on an iron sight) or in a pinch magic marker to make sure there are no bright edges to reflect light. That being said, I'm sure the ligic with a brass front sight is to have a glint of sunlight to show up against a daker (deep woods) background while hunting. You see it on a lot of original rifles. I'm just saying I prefer a black post for most range shooting and the hunting I do.

I have also done this in the past. All black is definitely my preference. Once I get this filled I'll probably darken it some.

 

[Mike in FL]

Firstly, I do not like and cannot see a black front post sight in the woods. Secondly, I file brass sights flat across the top and then round the rear of that sight. Because my preferred sight picture is a round looking ball nestled on the top of the "U" of the rear sight so that my view is a brass ball just touching the bottom of the U. A square post is more suited to those who have a squared rear sight like you might see on a target revolver. Also, and off topic, I go slowly with the file, checking frequently for how much I have changed point of imoact. When just right, use a sharpening stone to remove burs left by the file. I do this on top and both sides if the front sight.

 

[M. De Land]

The bullseye target shooting disciplines all use aperture sights because the eye/view will center itself in the aperture resulting in a finer discernment of any misalignments…round (as opposed to square) apertures allow for an even light refraction and often acts somewhat like a corrective lens…making the bull appear slightly smaller and crisp.
These can be effective longer range sights…especially when front and rear are wearing shading devices.
Now…on my opensights rifles, I try to avoid light reflecting surfaces when viewed from the rear…a rearward slanted rear sight and a square face slightly rearward slanting front post…there is an optimum sight picture for each individual preference…I like a very tall narrow post and a deep narrow slit in my rear…for my old eyes the narrow slit behaves similarly to an aperture….very much unlike blocky pistol sights…I never need to acquire an ultra fast sight picture…my one shot will be carefully deliberate.

When the venue I'm shooting allows or when hunting I have found nothing beats a rather open rear aperture and front bladed sight that presents a post/partridge image. A wide front blade will always without fail hold elevation and windage better than will a thin post/partridge front sight.
Brass shows up as well or better in every light condition than does black because it contrasts against more back ground colors than black does, even snow, sky or wet dirt/rock. Ivory is the only equivalent in natural colors I'm aware of.
I regularly compete in animal target gong matches to 200 yards and only a scope can compare to an aperture rear and blade/post front sight configuration as to sight definition on target.
This shape high lighted with brass or ivory enhances contrast and thus definition.
The fuzz out from glare on such surfaces is largely a myth I have not encountered.
Most of my front target sight blades are black and hooded and they work well on bright days but are a hindrance to target definition on cloudy or foggy days.

 

[M. De Land]

This has absolutely been my experience.

It's obvious you have not actually tried this configuration. Brass quickly oxidizes to a flat yellow color and with the exception of when wet does not glare , neither does Ivory.
Even flat black will glare if wet.

 

[HighUintas]

When the venue I'm shooting allows or when hunting I have found nothing beats a rather open rear aperture and front bladed sight that presents a post/partridge image. A wide front blade will always without fail hold elevation and windage better than will a thin post/partridge front sight.
Brass shows up as well or better in every light condition than does black because it contrasts against more back ground colors than black does, even snow, sky or wet dirt/rock. Ivory is the only equivalent in natural colors I'm aware of.
I regularly compete in animal target gong matches to 200 yards and only a scope can compare to an aperture rear and blade/post front sight configuration as to sight definition on target.
This shape high lighted with brass or ivory enhances contrast and thus definition.
The fuzz out from glare on such surfaces is largely a myth I have not encountered.
Most of my front target sight blades are black and hooded and they work well on bright days but are a hindrance to target definition on cloudy or foggy days.

Do you have this configuration without the typical rear v or notched sight, or do you leave the rear v/notch sight in place and just have the front blade, middle v/notch, and rear aperture all lined up?

I made one of those tang screw mounted rear aperture sights out of sheet metal and line that up with the other two sights. I'm not sure if I like it or if it was even helpful. The aperture seemed to get knocked out of alignment pretty easily too.

 

[M. De Land]

Do you have this configuration without the typical rear v or notched sight, or do you leave the rear v/notch sight in place and just have the front blade, middle v/notch, and rear aperture all lined up?

I made one of those tang screw mounted rear aperture sights out of sheet metal and line that up with the other two sights. I'm not sure if I like it or if it was even helpful. The aperture seemed to get knocked out of alignment pretty easily too.

Yes, the rear barrel sight is removed and the aperture goes on the tang. If it is solidly mounted it will give very repeatable accuracy and greatly increases the sight radius which also increases accuracy.
Most muzzle loading target venues though do not allow aperture sights so a wide front blade and rear square notch sight that gives a good light clearance on both sides of it are about as good as it gets for barrel sight, shape definition.