Hunting patch lubes?????

[Skychief]

Howdy boys!

With squirrel season sneaking up, and a new, thicker blade front sight on my 32 flinter (don't ask :haha: ), I'm in need of zeroing her again.

The rifle shoots REALLY well with wet patching lubed with water/Ballistol, for instance. She doesn't seem to care quite as much for a greased patch (mink oil, tallow/beeswax, etc).

I'd like to hear from you guys....Do any of you get away with squirrel hunting with "wet" patches in lieu of greased patches? Of course one can expect his rifle to be loaded anywhere from a matter of minutes to several hours depending on the squirrels activity.

I think I can guess the answers that I'll receive but want to make sure. The tiny groups this rifle shoots with wetter patches is too good to ignore.

What about olive oil and such?

Just looking for a greaseless patch that won't foul my powder to the point of inaccuracy when loaded for a couple of hours between shots.

Before writing this, I was grabbing my gear to zero the rifle this morning. I stopped to ask this before getting out my grease lubes and tapping and filing her new sight.

Standing by. :thumbsup:

Best regards, Skychief

 

[Vaino]

Have shot many 100s of head hit squirrels w/ my .45 flint LR and the lube used was Oxyoke Wonder Lube 1000 Plus. Always use a loading block and the Oxyoke works well because it doesn't dry out and if "wetting" the adjacent powder is a concern, it's too waxy to do that.

Some say not to use the Oxyoke lube in below zero temps because it gets very stiff.....well, have used it in temps of 15 below zero while hunting snowshoe hares w/o incident. The hot gases melt the Oxyoke and if it was stiff, it no longer is upon ignition.

The Oxyoke is used in not only the bore but on the entire rifle and have never had any rusting in the bore or anyplace on the rifle. It is indeed the "Wonder Lube"......Fred

 

[wattlebuster]

Skychief im a hunter an when I practice its all shooting the very same components that I will use when hunting whatever game im hunting at the time. I dont even sight my guns in with the wet style lubes for that reason. I like the TOTW mink oil an have about 6 cans of it left but since I have been making my own thats what I use be it bear grease or deer tallow. My deer rifles seem to prefer the bear grease although the difference is very small an my new Brooks 40 seems to lean to the deer tallow. I guess if I were a competitive shooter I would try the wet lubes :hatsoff:

 

[Patocazador]

You may want to give this stuff a try. I haven't thoroughly tested it myself yet but others like it. It may be just what your gun likes.
http://www.frontiermuzzleloading.com/t8567-frontier-s-anti-rust-patch-lube

 

[necchi]

wet patching lubed with water/Ballistol, for instance.

Well your on to something right there,
I don't know what ratios of water/Ballistol your using,, or how "wet" you make your patch,, but,,
You can use a mix with more Ballistol then water and just dampen the patch instead of having it dripping wet. Think a spray of lube instead of saturating.

 

[kurts]

Try pure neats foot oil, works well for me.

 

[Skychief]

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

[hanshi]

In my deer rifle I use mink oil (bought, not home squeezed) but in the little squirrel rifles I use what shoots best and Hoppes BP Lube is the best wet lube I've found.

 

[Onojutta]

The tiny groups this rifle shoots with wetter patches is too good to ignore.

What about olive oil and such?

So what's wrong with using the water/ballistol that you get the good groups with? Olive oil wouldn't be any different...

 

[19 16 6]

Have you tried those Balistol/water patches dried out.
O.

 

[coloradoclyde]

If I'm actively hunting the squirrels I use spit. If passive, I use a mix of beeswax and olive oil.

 

[Skychief]

Fred, thanks

Wattlebuster, you know that we are both hunters first! :thumbsup: I've used the water based lubes in my 32 for target matches though, it makes for its best groups and cleanup afterward is a snap.

Pato', thanks.

Necchi, will take your suggestion to heart and try a damp patch. I've used sopping wet patching in it as I can consistently tell when my patching is in that state vs damp or half wet, etc. As you know consistency is the key to accuracy. I will try to find a repeatable way of dampening each patch the same amount if need be. Thanks.

Cub 45, I have some neatsfoot oil and will try it. Do you think it has a lesser chance of contaminating the powder?

Hanshi, I'm interested in your use of the Hoppes. Do you use a really wet patch in your squirrel rifles?

Little Buffalo, maybe nothing wrong. I've just never tried it for hunting after sitting for an hour or more.

19166, I have tried the dry patch system. It wasn't for me. Thanks.

Colorado Clyde, thanks.

I was unable to shoot today. Next time out, I plan to try some different lubes. Specifically, I will load the rifle with its preferred accuracy load (w/ water based lube), leave the rifle sit for a couple of hours, then fire it into an established group. THAT should tell the tale.

If it hits within the group, I will have my answer at least until freezing temperatures arrive.

I recall a thread here which debated a powder charge being compromised by wetness. I will see for myself :thumbsup:

I appreciate all the thoughtful replies guys.

Best regards, Skychief

 

[Stumpkiller]

I make my own ("Moose Snot") specifically for hunting where a load may be in place for a week or more.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/

 

[Skychief]

Thanks Stumpkiller.

I've seen your formula before but have never tried it. I've read many good reports about it.

Is it Murphy's oil soap, or hydrogen peroxide that some see as possibly hard on a rifle bore? Perhaps, both?

Thanks much, Skychief

 

[Curt]

Skycheif I use coconut oil for my patch lube and it works great(Joe Shcells sugestion).Stumpkillers lube is very good also ,the only 2 i will use while huntin.IMHO I would stay clear of any thing with h2o in it for huntin purposes.Not tryin to start a fight here.I just like to use the same thing four both plinkin and huntin ,ya know keep it simple.If what others are using works for them I say stay with it but a wet patch (water or oil) seems like trouble to me.

 

[Rat Trapper]

I use bore butter all year long with no problems.

 

[Vaino]

As can be seen from all the differing lubes that are being used and all are evidently doing the job, it's a matter of trial and error using either store bought or concocted lubes.

Some like to "invent" their own lube and some just prefer to use over the counter stuff.

Seeing I like to keep things as simple as possible, I use Oxyoke Wonder Lube because it's available at many suppliers and is the only patch lube/rust preventative I use on the entire gun....nothing else is needed.

It doesn't readily dry out and also when used as a rust preventative, doesn't migrate to the lowest places as do the thinner lubes.

What you'll end up w/ hopefully will do an excellent job as a patch lube and most likely will require an addt'l rust preventative.......Fred

 

[Maven]

"Is it Murphy's oil soap, or hydrogen peroxide that some see as possibly hard on a rifle bore? Perhaps both?"

The MOS + H202 (2% - 3%) is better used for cleaning your bore than as a patch lube. If you want to use it for that purpose, use equal parts of those two ingredients + rubbing alcohol (70% is fine). I've been using it for years and have had no problems with bbl. corrosion, etc.* Also, Dixie Gun Works used to sell a patch lube which was essentially diluted MOS (smelled the same): It worked well and produced no bore build up or corrosion.

As for other patch lubes, I give high marks to Stumpy's Moose Snot, which I may return to for a mid-August woods walk. Btw, many oils work OK for a patch lube: Canola, cocoanut, mineral, peanut, olive.


*Since it works so well, there's no need to leave it in your bore for more than a few minutes; but dry the bore well afterwards and use a rust preventative, which I do regardless of the bore solvent I use.

 

[Skychief]

Gentlemen, I am in the middle of shooting the 32.

I've shot a group with my water based patch lube and loaded the rifle an hour ago with same.

I will leave the rifle sit :metoo: and fire at the same target no sooner than another hour (at least two hours since loading).

This should tell me what I need to know, depending on if the shot hits within the established group.

I will report back.

Thanks for all the feedback, Skychief

 

[hanshi]

Skychief, the patches I lube with Hoppes are pretty wet but NOT dripping. They are wet enough so that when the prb is seated, a small puddle of lube forms on the muzzle. I've have left guns loaded for hours with Hoppes with no ill effect. If I deer hunt, where I might not get a shot, I always load with Mink oil. That way the rifle can be left loaded for months if need be. With Mink Oil I swab after each shot but that is not needed with Hoppes. I often fire several dozen rounds lubed with Hoppes and seating pressure stays the same throughout. I don't swab if I'm using Hoppes.

I've never had a problem with Hoppes "wet" patches contaminating the powder. If I think it may be a problem I use some sort of op wad: hornet nest, card wad, dry patch, felt wad or even toilet paper (cheap, too). An op wad is generally not even needed with Hoppes or Mink Oil.