Archer 756
40 Cal.
:thumbsup: Moose Juice :hatsoff:
Hunting patch lubes?????
- Thread starter Skychief
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Skychief
69 Cal.
Thought I would report back after cleaning things up on this end.
The shot taken with the waterbased lube, after sitting for 2 hours, sounded real good.
It hit with fine elevation, but about an inch and a half right of the group. More than likely, it was me, though the shot felt good.
Immediately after firing the round, I fired a couple more shots, and they each found their way right into the original group.
I think it proves nothing beyond the fact that I didn't wind up with a real squib load.
More testing would tell more, but it's hard for me to wait hours between shots. :haha:
All that said, I remembered having some mutton tallow that a friend made.
Lightly lubing the patch material gave great results with 30 grains of 3f.
Satisfied with my groups, I sighted the rifle in at about 17 paces. I figure that's about an average distance to a tree harboring a targeted squirrel.
I drifted and filed the new front sight to the point where my balls hit right at the top of the sight.
Lastly, I checked zero at 30 paces. The balls strike about an inch above the sight at that distance. I'm ready! :hatsoff:
I don't want to wish my life away (I've been accused of such preceding turkey season!), but I'm watching the calender close for August 15th to roll around, our squirrel opener.
Thanks all and best regards, Skychief. :hatsoff:
The shot taken with the waterbased lube, after sitting for 2 hours, sounded real good.
It hit with fine elevation, but about an inch and a half right of the group. More than likely, it was me, though the shot felt good.
Immediately after firing the round, I fired a couple more shots, and they each found their way right into the original group.
I think it proves nothing beyond the fact that I didn't wind up with a real squib load.
More testing would tell more, but it's hard for me to wait hours between shots. :haha:
All that said, I remembered having some mutton tallow that a friend made.
Lightly lubing the patch material gave great results with 30 grains of 3f.
Satisfied with my groups, I sighted the rifle in at about 17 paces. I figure that's about an average distance to a tree harboring a targeted squirrel.
I drifted and filed the new front sight to the point where my balls hit right at the top of the sight.
Lastly, I checked zero at 30 paces. The balls strike about an inch above the sight at that distance. I'm ready! :hatsoff:
I don't want to wish my life away (I've been accused of such preceding turkey season!), but I'm watching the calender close for August 15th to roll around, our squirrel opener.
Thanks all and best regards, Skychief. :hatsoff:
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Hey Skychief, Get that 1962 Tingle Target Rifle of yours out and shoot the heads off those little tree rats! :haha:
Respectfully, Cowboy :grin:
Respectfully, Cowboy :grin:
Skychief
69 Cal.
She could do it Cowboy🤓
Onojutta
45 Cal.
Skychief said:
What is the dry patch system?
Skychief
69 Cal.
Dutch Schoultz (sp), a member here, touts a system of lubing patches with a water/Ballistol (or other oil) mix, letting the water evaporate, then, using the "dry" patching.
Best regards, Skychief
Best regards, Skychief
hanshi
Cannon
Frenchman said:
Frenchman, even if I could get my arms around a moose to squeeze, He'd probably wiggle out of my grasp. :grin:
Archer 756
40 Cal.
:v Need to watch North Woods Law
Skychief
69 Cal.
hanshi said:
So, which end of the moose does the juice come from? :idunno:
hanshi
Cannon
Skychief said:
Believe me, I don't want to know. :idunno:
I use Moose Juice for my patch lube so I can tell you, it's kind of a very light yellowish color.
Does that give a clue?
Does that give a clue?
Onojutta
45 Cal.
Skychief said:
I wonder how that's any different than just using straight ballistol wet. Anyway, I use straight olive oil and I can't say how long it lasts before it dries out, but I have to believe it, along with most lubes, would last long enough to get you through a day's hunt. Leave it in for a whole deer season like I sometimes do, that may be a different story.
don hepler
58 Cal.
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I use a felt wad over powder, then you can use any lube that you like.
I use bore butter smeared on and rubbed back to try and create a consistent amount. I hand cut my own patches, and place them in a small container.
I use bore butter smeared on and rubbed back to try and create a consistent amount. I hand cut my own patches, and place them in a small container.
Mink tallow... Always have, always will.
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Zonie said:
Fresh squeezed or from concentrate? :haha:
Billnpatti
Cannon
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Hoo boy! Have you opened up a can of worms. There are an incalculable number of patch lubes and each one has folks who will swear by it and many more who will swear at it. I have had good luck with Bore Butter. Okay all you folks out there in Forum Land who absolutely hate Bore Butter, I hear you. But, it works for me so I use it, especially since I got a couple of tubes of it as a prize at a blanket shoot. Anyway, I do not slather my patches with Bore Butter. What I have found that works for me is to lay out a piece of patching material and spread a light coat of Bore Butter on it. I rub it into the fabric and then fold the fabric up and put it in the mocriwave for a few seconds to melt the Bore Butter into the fabric. You can also achieve the same results using a common clothes iron but be sure to wrap the fabric in some newspaper or you will end up with grease stains on the ironing board. Momma gonna raise hell!! When the fabric is cool, unfold it and you can either cut it into pre-cut patches if you wish or you can just use the fabric to make patches that you cut at the muzzle. The material should not have any grease on the surface, it should all be absorbed by the fabric. There will be enough there to lubricate your bore as you load but not enough to be messy. This will work in hot or cold ambient temperatures.
If you are one of those shooters who do not like Bore Butter or any of the Bore Butter clones, you can use the grease of your choice in the same manner. If you like Ballistol, and I do, you can dilute it in water (about 5:1 water to Ballistol has worked well for me) and saturate your patch fabric in the diluted Ballistol. Then the important step is to lay it out absolutely flat to dry. If it is not absolutely flat, the water/Ballistol mixture will migrate to the lowest point(s) and the fabric at those points will have a heaver coating of Ballistol while the high points will have a lesser amount of Ballistol after the fabric has dried. these variations in the amount of lube on your patches can effect your accuracy. Once the fabric has been lain out absolutely flat, allow it to dry. The water will evaporate leaving a very light coating of Ballistol on your fabric. This latter technique will work with any lube and diluent of your choosing. Many people swear by olive oil as a lubricant so you might try diluting olive oil in alcohol and using this technique to apply a light even coat of olive oil to your fabric.
Another thing you might consider if you like a heaver coating of lube on your patch but are worried about fouling your powder charge is to use a felt over powder wad to protect your powder from your lube. When I use these wads, I make my own from a pure wool felt. Never use a felt with a synthetic in it. It will really make a mess in your bore as the synthetic melts and coats the bore of your rifle. You can get pure wool felt from a company by the name of Duro Felt. They have a felt that is specific for making OP wads. http://www.durofelt.com/image_26.html You can find inexpensive but serviceable hollow punches at Harbor Freight or you can buy a custom made punch at a very reasonable price from one of our members who goes by the name of Ohio Ramrod. If you have a drill press, order one of his drill press adaptors. You do not turn your drill press on to cut the wads, you just use it as a press to press the punch through the felt. If you don't have a drill press, just use a mallet to punch out the wads. It is a LOT cheaper to make your own wads than it is to buy them pre-made.
If you are one of those shooters who do not like Bore Butter or any of the Bore Butter clones, you can use the grease of your choice in the same manner. If you like Ballistol, and I do, you can dilute it in water (about 5:1 water to Ballistol has worked well for me) and saturate your patch fabric in the diluted Ballistol. Then the important step is to lay it out absolutely flat to dry. If it is not absolutely flat, the water/Ballistol mixture will migrate to the lowest point(s) and the fabric at those points will have a heaver coating of Ballistol while the high points will have a lesser amount of Ballistol after the fabric has dried. these variations in the amount of lube on your patches can effect your accuracy. Once the fabric has been lain out absolutely flat, allow it to dry. The water will evaporate leaving a very light coating of Ballistol on your fabric. This latter technique will work with any lube and diluent of your choosing. Many people swear by olive oil as a lubricant so you might try diluting olive oil in alcohol and using this technique to apply a light even coat of olive oil to your fabric.
Another thing you might consider if you like a heaver coating of lube on your patch but are worried about fouling your powder charge is to use a felt over powder wad to protect your powder from your lube. When I use these wads, I make my own from a pure wool felt. Never use a felt with a synthetic in it. It will really make a mess in your bore as the synthetic melts and coats the bore of your rifle. You can get pure wool felt from a company by the name of Duro Felt. They have a felt that is specific for making OP wads. http://www.durofelt.com/image_26.html You can find inexpensive but serviceable hollow punches at Harbor Freight or you can buy a custom made punch at a very reasonable price from one of our members who goes by the name of Ohio Ramrod. If you have a drill press, order one of his drill press adaptors. You do not turn your drill press on to cut the wads, you just use it as a press to press the punch through the felt. If you don't have a drill press, just use a mallet to punch out the wads. It is a LOT cheaper to make your own wads than it is to buy them pre-made.
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hanshi
Cannon
Zonie said:
I think I just learned more than I really care to know. :rotf:
I got a picture yesterday of a great field blackened and burning in, if I remember correctly, the Grea falls, Montana area caused, the caption read, by gunfire at a rifle range in the area.
.
If you are experimenting with a dried/lubricated patch be aware of the possibility of starting a fire down range. . People who have used modern, non oil based machining and cutting oils have had fires show up down range. That's how I learned that modern "improved" water soluble oils had changed
This is not something that will occur frequently but is something to bear in mind.
I never had a surprise fire when using real old style Water soluble oil and I have had no reports that this has happened with Ballistol.
Nothing like setting fire to an enormous hay field to start people wanting to close down your rifle range.
Dutch
.
If you are experimenting with a dried/lubricated patch be aware of the possibility of starting a fire down range. . People who have used modern, non oil based machining and cutting oils have had fires show up down range. That's how I learned that modern "improved" water soluble oils had changed
This is not something that will occur frequently but is something to bear in mind.
I never had a surprise fire when using real old style Water soluble oil and I have had no reports that this has happened with Ballistol.
Nothing like setting fire to an enormous hay field to start people wanting to close down your rifle range.
Dutch
robinsroost
50 Cal.
Chief, Have you tried bacon fryings for a patch lube? It might not help your scores but it would surely drive everyone close to you crazy trying to figure out who had the bacon sandwiches, LOL......robin :hmm:
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