Hunting pouch question.

[Ross5403]

So I'm finishing up my Fowler kit and want to build a hunting pouch for it. I have the recreating a hunting pouch book but wondering what leather to get. Thinking of just going with veg tan but not sure how much I'll need and how thick. Any info would be appreciated.

 

[garypl]

Oil tan leather 6-8 oz will make a nice supple pouch.

 

[Brokennock]

I usually use veg tan cow. I generally use a little lighter than a lot of folks, 4 or 5 ounce. My favorite bag right now is even lighter and is of veg tan goat. I've used an oil finished leather from Tandy, Kodiak something or other, for some other projects, I feel it is too heavy for a hunting pouch. It is supple and flexible, but heavy.
I've also used a "stuffed" pig leather from Tandy that works out into a very nice bag, good weight, good weather resistance. Really the only downside is that with the pores being visible, sometimes one's stitching marks get lost/hard to see.

Generally you aren't going to have a lot of choices as to how much you buy. Most leather is sold in sides, or sometimes double bends. Some craft places sell smaller pieces but you are actually paying more in the long run. I've made a bag that turned out okay from some light split hides from Hobby Lobby sold by the 8.5"x11" sheet. And the goat leather came from there as well.
Also, if you buy small pieces for the main body of the bag, you have no choice but to buy a separate strap.
I like Zach White leather for my precut strapping. They sell a lighter weight at a longer length than Tandy.

Be sure to get a decent diamond profile awl, some harness needles, and either an overstitch wheel or pricking iron to lay out the spacing of your stitching. Keep that awl sharp.

Go check out the, "Every Man a Cordwainer," series of posts by "The Capgun Kid" over in the ALR forum,,, a ton of good info there, both from him and some of the better known high end historical leather workers.

 

[longcruise]

Like @Brokennock I suggest a bit lighter veg tan. Around 3 oz. Easier to turn. Use a welt on your seams. Maybe double thick for the strap. If you have TC Albert's book it covers it all.

 

[French Colonial]

I really like pigskin bags but most of the stuff available is to thin, last really good stuff I got from Ken Scott.

I have some really nice buffalo that I have been sitting on for 4-5 years, I have plenty of bags and just can not get inspired by a new design so it will sit for awhile longer until I have a EUREKA! moment.

 

[tenngun]

Thin turns easier. Many early bags seem to have been stitched but not turned
A couple of my bags from vigi-tan goat then waxed

 

[Brokennock]

Veg tan goat bag in various stages of construction. Was hoping contstruction pics would show how thin it is, maybe 3oz, possibly 2?
It holds up well. Only strength issue I had is that the edges of the button turned out to have a little sharpness to the edge and caused the buttonhole to start to tear. Easily fixed with 800 grit sandpaper and a buttonhole stitch.

Pigskin bag (my 1st bag) not sure any of the pics show well how thin the leather is. Again, thinner than some recommend, but it holds up very well. The water drop sat there a long time without soaking in and I had added nothing to the leather. It does stretch, a lot, in some directions but barely at all in others. Being new I didn't pay attention to this when I cut the strap and had to back the strap with fabric.

Bag made as an experiment to make a bag with only materials available from a craft store. "Cheap" split leather sheets (I think they were roughly 8 1/2"x11") I think I used 4. 1 for front, 1 for back, 1 for welt, and one for flap. Craft store cotton webbing amd buckle for strap. Coconut shell buttons to hold small internal pocket. Craft or fabric store metal button for flap. Thin prefinished leather from Hobby Lobby for edge binding.

 

[Brokennock]

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Veg tan goat bag in various stages of construction. Was hoping contstruction pics would show how thin it is, maybe 3oz, possibly 2?
It holds up well. Only strength issue I had is that the edges of the button turned out to have a little sharpness to the edge and caused the buttonhole to start to tear. Easily fixed with 800 grit sandpaper and a buttonhole stitch.

View attachment 150904
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Pigskin bag (my 1st bag) not sure any of the pics show well how thin the leather is. Again, thinner than some recommend, but it holds up very well. The water drop sat there a long time without soaking in and I had added nothing to the leather. It does stretch, a lot, in some directions but barely at all in others. Being new I didn't pay attention to this when I cut the strap and had to back the strap with fabric.

View attachment 150909
Bag made as an experiment to make a bag with only materials available from a craft store. "Cheap" split leather sheets (I think they were roughly 8 1/2"x11") I think I used 4. 1 for front, 1 for back, 1 for welt, and one for flap. Craft store cotton webbing amd buckle for strap. Coconut shell buttons to hold small internal pocket. Craft or fabric store metal button for flap. Thin prefinished leather from Hobby Lobby for edge binding.

Actually, it is the goatskin bag that has the thin prefinished leather edge binding.
The craft store bag has blue cotton tape for edge binding.

 

[hanshi]

I've made small hunting bags from scrap leather, heavy canvas & buckskin. Unlike the fine bags pictured in posts above, my work is crude. I don't mind that because I would imagine our less wealthy forebears made their own with no thought other than rugged utility. A fancy bag would cost too much for shooters with lighter pockets.

 

[loflyr55]

So I'm finishing up my Fowler kit and want to build a hunting pouch for it. I have the recreating a hunting pouch book but wondering what leather to get. Thinking of just going with veg tan but not sure how much I'll need and how thick. Any info would be appreciated.

 

[loflyr55]

Read the book first, it talks a bit about leather selection. I have used water buffalo that you can get from weaver leather at a good price. I like 4 - 7 oz weight for most bags. i would caution against chrome tan at the early stage as veg tan is better to work with and it doesn’t have chemicals that can cause corrosion on metal parts. Pre punch your holes, use a round nose or dull needle and make saddle stitch for best integrity. Check out making a hunting bag on YouTube for learning a few tricks. Start simple, make a ball bag, flint pouch, first to practice with.

 

[Snake Pleskin]

My bags are made from "real" braintanned " buckskin. I was able to get it easily because my Great grandfather was a Taxidermist and had many full hides of it. It is softer than a baby's bottom. beautiful stuff. I have a small day bag with attached horn , and a larger bag if I plan to be out longer. The reality is, either one will work, because everything else i need to stay safe & comfortable in snow, rain, low temps, i carry in a small pack. Not HC , but sorry, my safety & comfort come first!

 

[Cooleys]

You will most likely take your own journey, but most of us started off buying cheap chrome tan leather before learning that veg-tan is more historically correct and easier to work with. I use Springfield Leather Co. They have high quality veg-tan and sell by the square foot. My bags are lightweight (3-5 ounce) with a 5-7 ounce strap, and generally on the smaller side. I make my own vinagroon for coloring the leather and then lightly oil them before applying a finishing coat like saddle butter. Here’s a larger bag I made to go with a Fowler my dad made. Definitely buy TC Alberts book.

 

[Snake Pleskin]

You will most likely take your own journey, but most of us started off buying cheap chrome tan leather before learning that veg-tan is more historically correct and easier to work with. I use Springfield Leather Co. They have high quality veg-tan and sell by the square foot. My bags are lightweight (3-5 ounce) with a 5-7 ounce strap, and generally on the smaller side. I make my own vinagroon for coloring the leather and then lightly oil them before applying a finishing coat like saddle butter. Here’s a larger bag I made to go with a Fowler my dad made. Definitely buy TC Alberts book.

fine looking bag.

 

[Kabulrocks]

You will most likely take your own journey, but most of us started off buying cheap chrome tan leather before learning that veg-tan is more historically correct and easier to work with. I use Springfield Leather Co. They have high quality veg-tan and sell by the square foot. My bags are lightweight (3-5 ounce) with a 5-7 ounce strap, and generally on the smaller side. I make my own vinagroon for coloring the leather and then lightly oil them before applying a finishing coat like saddle butter. Here’s a larger bag I made to go with a Fowler my dad made. Definitely buy TC Alberts book.

Springfield Leather is a great store. If your travels take you near Springfield, Missouri and you do any leather work I suggest stopping. I’m heading there tomorrow to buy leather for a couple of shooting pouches myself.
If you stop by, be sure to get your free bag of leather scraps. It’s mostly soft upholstery leather, but there are some useable pieces for projects.

 

[Jim K]

I’ll bet it smells great in there. I love the leather smell.

 

[Rod Man]

I have only made/built two bags. I have learned loads from each one. Not ashamed of either, will sport those puppies like its Cool! I do know however, exactly what I am going to do for the next one. 1 thing for sure, is if it is going to be a lined bag I will take and roll the lining under and then sew. Less likely to fray.

Anyway, here is the last one. I already posted it but figured I would show it off again.

RM

 

[French Colonial]

Pigskin bag made during a Ken Scott class at Conner Prairie

 

[Kabulrocks]

I’ll bet it smells great in there. I love the leather smell.

Yes it does. The staff there are very helpful, and they have a catalog with an impressive amount of products for leather working.

 

[Snake Pleskin]

I have only made/built two bags. I have learned loads from each one. Not ashamed of either, will sport those puppies like its Cool! I do know however, exactly what I am going to do for the next one. 1 thing for sure, is if it is going to be a lined bag I will take and roll the lining under and then sew. Less likely to fray.

Anyway, here is the last one. I already posted it but figured I would show it off again.

RM

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Nice set up, great accessories!