Hunting Rifle w/ Super Tight Bore - Help!

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Agree...and as additional information for the poster, Hornady GP bullets are designed as what are called "slip fit conicals".

The lower body is no larger than bore size and slips in easily, but the "driving band" at the top of the conical is larger than bore size...its groove size...and stops when that driving band comes to rest on the ends of the lands.

You have to intentionally "punch" the conical the rest of the way into the muzzle with a short starter so the ends of the lands literally cut through that driving band.

That way the conical is engaged with the rifling and will get its spin rotation from the rifling when traveling back up the bore.
 
I have never heard of a T/C Renegade barrel that had a bore diameter of less than caliber size. if the land to land diameter is .525, as you indicate, I would be contacting T/C to ask about it. The .545 Groove diameter is much less than most T/C .54 barrels will mike out to. Perhaps you need to take it to a gunsmith, or local machine shop, and ask someone there to take those measurements. You have indicated that you are not that confident in your own abilities at using calipers.

Another member of this forum also was not sure of his ability to accurately measure the bore of his gun, so he stopped by my home one Sunday, and we measured it together. I also gave him some instruction on how to use that caliper to get precise readings. He had not been holding the caliper right, and it was tipping in the barrel, giving him false, and " short " readings.

The others are correct in advising about those T/C maxiballs and the Great plains hunter bullets. Thye are stepped, so that the last band, closest to the nose of the bullet, is about Groove diameter. It takes a good whack on your short starter to seat those bullets in the muzzle, because the lands have to score the driving band on the bullet, to let the bullet go down the barrel.

I am much more concerned about your comments about how difficult it is to push a PRB down the barrel. If your bore diameter is only .525, then a .530 ball and patch will BE Difficult to seat, even in a clean barrel.

Don't run balls and bullets down the barrel with a mighty heave on the end of the ramrod( That is how beginner shooter break wooden rods, often injuring themselve in the process).

Use a hand-over-hand method, with your hands never being more than about 8 inches apart, and the heel of your bottom hand right at the muzzle, guiding the rod straight into the barrel, so the rod does not scrape the crown or the lands as it goes down the barrel. Using this method will let you feel the condition of the bore as you run the bullet, or PRB, down the barrel.

The only time you use a rod to take full strokes, is when REMOVING the rod after seating the barrel, or when cleaning the barrel, preferrably using an Range rod, with a muzzle protector.) Even with this limitation, use your other hand to put your index finger and thumb around the rod at the muzzle, to center the rod, and keep the ramrod from touching and rubbing against the barrel as you pull it out of the bore.

Yes, the hand-over-hand method can get your hands, and everything else dirty, if you don't take soap and water, and some towels with you to the loading bench. But you want to clean that rod, and muzzle protector after each use, anyway( to remove grit and powder residue that carries it), and the towels can help keep your hands clean for the next shot. In the field, you just aren't going to get lots of shots, so you aren't going to get very dirty, there, anyway you go. ( I still take an old terrycloth towel in my daypack when hunting big game. It stays in the car with water, and soap, in my range box, when I am bird hunting, or hunting small game.)
 
The Hornady Great Plains bullets load very hard in my TC 50 & 54 cal rifles. I found the TC true starter a big help at the range. For hunting the Tc 4 N 1 speed loaders work very well.
Maxi and maxi hunters load much easier, but don't shoot as well as the Great Plains bullets. The Great Plains bullets are tack drivers in both of my hunting rifles. They also perform very well on deer. Elk are pretty big animals, and for them I also prefer conicals.
 
I wonder if your rifle has one of the Green Mountain barrels on it?

A lot of rifle barrels end up with a bit of choke due to the way the rifling cutter pulls out of the barrel. Some of them get the choked end threaded for the plug. Wise makers plug the big end and leave the choke for the muzzle. It would be interesting to know what the chamber end of your barrel measures. I would guess after pondering on this for a while that your barrel is choked a tad bit, and if so, be thankful, as it will be more accurate. If your powder charge is correct, and your lead is soft enough, your projectile will bump up to fit the chamber bore anyway and will ride the rifling out of the muzzle. I wouldnt mess with it, just learn to load it and be glad.
 
Bountyhunter said:
I wouldnt mess with it, just learn to load it and be glad.
Smart man. I would learn to live with the first shot being hard to load. How many times in a hunting situation are you actually going to be able to make use of a "quick" reload anyway? If you want it to be quicker, using undersized ball seems like a reasonable compromise. That tight loading is probably one of the reasons that your gun is such a tackdriver.
 
I have a .54 Renegade, and I can start 430 Gr. Maxiballs using my thumb. After 3-5 shots, I have to start using my homemade starter, or start cleaning.
 
Rest of the story...I picked up a GPR kit this week in 54. I took the barrel from the kit and noticed the Maxi Ball literaly drops all the way up to the final driving band with no effort at all. Whereas I take the same Maxi Ball and it will not even start on the Renegade.

I then took a GP Bullet and the same thing...it easily drops up to the second cannealure before becoming snug on the GPR barrel but on the Renegade it won't even start.

I guess I'm calling T/C on Tuesday and see what they will do in getting me another barrel. In the meantime I'm going to try some 520 or 525 balls with various patch thicknesses to find something that seats with light thumb pressure or easily with a short starter for hunting purposes.

What I have now...I can't load the ball or bullet without totally deforming it and beating it literally into the muzzle.
 
Had a buddy come over who does machinist work...he is very competent with micrometers and calipers...anyway we measured the T/C Renegade again...it mics at 530 on the button and the GPR mics at 540 on the nose. Interesting...
 
Hey QE !!!

If your going hunting with a single shot, ya better be able to load it quick”¦ Case in point, consider the mini-ball designed for the boy’s in the Civil War !!! Drop it in the bore and thump the butt on the ground. Can’t be any more of a stressful situation than being at Little Round Top running up that damn hill, loading to stay alive!!!

Anyway, fit the shoes to the feet, fit the sight to the dovetail, etc, etc, etc”¦. Use that hollow base conical and leave the patch’s for cleaning.. If you ever get into precision shooting you will understand why the old barrel makers provided a false muzzle, bullet starter and bullet mould for their barrels.

If you go for them big and dangerous trophy’s, strap that .357 on as a back-up”¦

Good Luck !!!
 
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