I don't understand???

[Hud]

I am currently building my first "real" kit from TOTW. I am getting close to the finishing part and have decided to try out the Browning process. I am using LMF Brown. This is the first time I have ever tryed to brown metal and it does not seem to be working. I am experimenting on a old breech plug tang. I have been applying the solution in 12 hr intervals as per the instructions, and nothing seems to be happening. the tang is turning a kind of flat blue color that is very thin, by thin I mean that you can see the steel thu the blueish color. I am not using the hot water formula at this time. just want it to brown. I have upwards of 6 coats on this thing now and nothing, no rust whatsoever. I am wondering if it has to do with humidity. I live in the high desert and our average humidity is around 15-30%. Could this have something to do with it. At first I tryed it on an old shotgun barrel and had the same results after 3 coats. I thought maybe it was something with the metal. Thats why I wanted to try it on a piece identical to whats on the gun. Any information would be greatly appriciated. By the way, I think I have taken good precautions for cleaning. The tang was first washed with a detergent, and then wiped down with alcohol. I also do not seem to be getting the coppering that has been mentioned. Help!! I am getting close to being ready to do the parts for the rifle. "it is a Vincit rifle with all iron parts".

 

[GobblerKnob]

Hud ~ It sure does sound to me like there isn't enough humidity. Try suspending it in the bathroom when you take a shower. There should be enough humidity to make a nickel rust! If that doesn't work, maybe you haven't cleaned all the oil from it. That will also keep your piece from rusting properly. Hope this helps. Rick

 

[ibson]

Hud, it may be the humidity although I've heard it works just as well w/o using a humidity box; just takes longer. First make sure that you only apply a very light coat making sure to never overlap an area that you have already touched w the browner (until after you've washed and carded, that is). Try this contraption I rigged up. I got a piece of PVC pipe a foot longer than my bbl and two end caps. I drilled through one cap and inserted a rope w/ a hook on either end (one to hang the bbl and one to hang from the ceiling). I tied knots on either side of the cap so the rope doesnt move. Then plugged my muzzle w/ a piece of wood and threaded another piece of wood for the breech and screwed in an eyebolt to each. I then hung the rope w/ cap from the cieling and hung my bbl on the hook and treated it with lmf. Then poured in about 8 inches of hot water into the pipe, slid the pvc over my bbl and screwed it into cap. That works like charm for me; maybe it will for you too.

 

[Hud]

Ibson,

that sounds like a good idea. I may try that. What about the small parts. I also will have to do the lock, trigger guard, and butt plat?? I was also wondering, is it possible for the solution to go bad??

 

[Darkhorse]

Hud,
Don't card the metal until it has formed a coat of rust. No matter whether it is 12 hours or 20. I think your problem is the lack of humidity along with the temp. If you do as others have suggested and hang it in the bathroom or build a box you should see this rust form a lot faster.
When doing the small parts and the barrel at the same time keep a close watch on the small parts. They are made of a different type steel and will often brown faster. You may want to stop the process on them first and then bring your barrel to match them.

 

[crockett]

You aren't going to like this but you HAVE TO build a damp box. This can be made of thin plywood, scrap paneling, etc. You don't need hinges, you can screw on and off one side. Inside this box you put a lamp with a 100 watt bulb. You also hang some wet towels and have a drip pan under the towel to catch the water. If you are in a dry climate, put a leaf bag over the box.
Just LIGHTLY swab the metal. Most folks put on too much solution. A light, fast stroke. Then into the box.
You should have a regular coat of RUST. I use an old terry cloth towel to card, don't rub off the rust, just anything that's loose. Regardless of what they tell you, you always have to put on more coats than imagined. Maybe seven or so. The finish after the seventh coat gets a washing with baking soda. The barrel is finished and looks antique. If you want a real smooth finish you can at that point put on a drop or two of tru-oil and it evens out the finish and puts a shine on it. Try it on a hidden barrel flat to make sure you like it. also, wear rubber gloves and clean metal before browning. LMF is good stuff, if this doesn't help, post your results. :redthumb

 

[ibson]

For the small parts you can an old plastic tackle box or somthing of that sort where you can seperate the parts from the water. Put the parts in the top shelves and put a tuperware container of hot water on the bottom and close the lid. You can card at the end or in between coats. I find that carding in beween gives you a much more even texture in the end.

 

[Hud]

Thanks for the help, this is a great forum. I will try the damp box, either what ibson mentioned or I can build one from plywood. I'll let you know how it turns out.. If I decide to build one out of plywood, will just a 40 watt bulb be sufficiant. My shop is uninsulated and it can get cold in there??

 

[Bushwhacker]

I've used the LMF browing solution many years with great success. try putting some on another steel part of some sort you can find. Humidity doesn't seem to effect this process.
Questions:
Are you sure you have browning solution and not their blueing?

Did you purchase the degreased solution?

I always use 0000 steel wool to polish up the steel and then apply a light coat with a cotton ball every 2-3 hours
no heat is required.. Good luck
Bushwhacker

 

[crockett]

One last thought; the first time I tried rust bluing steel I polished it to about a mirror polish. The rust wasn't taking. Rust bluing is really just browning except you boil between coats. A 320 grit is about tops for helping the rust take hold. If you over polished think about going back to a 400 or 320 grit.

 

[Hud]

Thanks for the help guys. It appears to be Humidity. After reading some the first posts, I took the part I am experimenting with and resanded it back to steel. "note" nothing over 320 grit paper. Then I applyed the LMF browning solution in very thin coats, and then placed the part in a old coolwhip container with hot water in it. The part was suspended abover the water and, 12 hours later, presto a very nice coating of rust. I just applied the 5th coat this morning, and I am just about to the color of brown I was looking for. So, when it comes time for the rifle parts, I will be building some sort of damp box to brown in... Thank you all very much...

HUD..