I finished my bag today

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ole Frog

40 Cal.
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
156
Reaction score
10
This is the bag that I was unsure of when I started
Brown Bear and Artificer were kind enough to help me sort through my issues

Thank you Guys!

For some reason this bag looks extremely red in the evening sun. They are cell phone photos. The bag is a much nicer shade of brown

Anyway here are some photos
IMG_20160517_185934536_HDR_zps5y0zmvkv.jpg

IMG_20160517_185823350_HDR_zpsuegr1yzn.jpg

IMG_20160517_185833551_HDR_zpsk51opc5b.jpg

IMG_20160517_185948426_HDR_zps37rvpq1u.jpg

IMG_20160517_193006064_zpsmukzxtnh.jpg

IMG_20160517_185855347_HDR_zpsy7epm1u6.jpg
 
It's about my 6th bag, but its a completely new style and level of difficulty for me
I made my self a simple bag, then I had to make one for my son, then one for a friend lol

This was one a good friend challenged me to make for him
I don't even get to keep it

I will have to make me one soon
 
Great work! The stitching is great and you've produced a wonderful bag. :hatsoff:
 
Only your 6th bag and the first time you tried a more complex bag? GOOD Job!

The red coming showing through in certain light reminds me of something a knowledgeable leather worker taught me back in the 70's, I.E. If you want a richer more distinct black colour on leather goods - first dye it Brown or even a Royal Blue and then dye it black over that.

OK, I just happened to have some Royal Blue dye left over, because my Mother had asked me to make a wallet for her. She wanted it made like an 18th century money wallet on the outside (including a wrap around strap), but have sections inside for photo's and credit cards. PLUS she wanted it Royal Blue. Actually for such a hermaphroditic sounding wallet, it came out nicely and she got a lot of nice complements on it over the years. OK, sorry, back to the theme.

OK, so for the "dual colour black" leather dying experiment, I wet the leather and dyed an even Royal Blue. Let that dry, moistened it again and dyed it an even black and let it dry. Initial findings when looking at it inside were disappointing as it looked like any other black dye job. OK, so I put a finish coat on it and it did look a little different inside, BUT when I took it outside in natural sunlight - it looked MUCH richer than a normal black leather dye job. When held at a certain angle in the light, I could just see some of the blue stand out a little. OK, so the nest experiment was with a Brown Dye Coat under the Black Dye. That job turned out not quite as rich as the Royal Blue first, but still a richer black than using just Black Dye alone.

So what I believe is happening with your pouch is the red in the dye is showing through because you just happened to have photographed it at the right time of day that the sunlight allowed the red to come out.

Gus
 
Thank you everyone for the kind comments and encouragement

It has helped

I am excited about my next bag now!
 
Very nicely done :bow: -- I have to ask --- what weight leather & size of thread :hmm: . I got to make me one. Does the strap attachment tabs keep the flap from opening easely?
 
Zug said:
Very nicely done :bow: -- I have to ask --- what weight leather & size of thread :hmm: . I got to make me one. Does the strap attachment tabs keep the flap from opening easily?

Thank you
The leather is 3-4 oz.
I prefer premium grades
The strap is a 1.5 inch Tandy leather belt blank that I have worked a lot

The thread I bought off of Amazon.com and is described as 284yrd deep brown Leather Sewing Waxed Thread 150D 1mm.
Thread from[url] Amazon.com[/url]

The bag opens easily and will even open better as the leather gets broken in
It is a nice one hand operation when wearing

John
 
Last edited by a moderator:
John,

I do not want to sound like a "know it all" or any kind of expert, because on my own sixth major leather project I was still making cartridge pouches and other 18th/Early 19th century military leather items. I still only consider myself learning as much as I can on period leather work.

When I started doing leather work, there was no internet and the best I could hope for was to view and copy some original pieces, which I did. I also spent as much time as I could in the Colonial Williamsburg Cordwainer's and Saddler's Shops to learn as much as I could there, but you can only learn so much per visit.

So what I am asking is would you like some tips and suggestions for the next bag like this that you will make? My hope is not to be critical, but rather inspire you onward.

Gus
 
First off I would like to say if this was the first time you put leather banding on the seams of a pouch and especially as you had no mentor to show you how to do it, you did a fine job doing it. Give yourself a good pat on the back because you deserve it.

In the following photo, it looks like you may have cut the edges of the banding on the top/front of the pouch at an angle to sort of “agree” or line up with how they came close to the seam of the bag. You may have cut them off square, though, and it is only an optical illusion.

Bullfrog said:

In this second image, you did cut the ends of the leather banding square on the ends and that leaves an open space on each end of the leather banding between the edges of the banding and the “tabs” that hold the rings. I am not sure if you sewed the ring tabs on before the banding between them or not? If you had sewn the ring tabs first, you could have cut the edges of the banding at an angle, so they were right up against the sides of each tab and not leave the open spaces. This is not a matter of strength, but rather it would look better if the banding was right up against each side of the tabs.
IMG_20160517_185934536_HDR_zps5y0zmvkv.jpg
[/quote]

It also looks like the exposed ends of the banding are open on each side at the top of the front flap, or is that an optical illusion? There are a few period ways to deal with this so it looks a little better. One way is to put a small piece of the leather banding over the open edge and sew it in place when the banding is sewn on. The second way would be to angle the ring tabs out a little more and then cut the ends of the banding at an angle to fit closely to them and glue the ends of the banding shut. The third way would be to just glue the open ends of the banding shut.

One thing I learned the hard way from making and wearing an 18th century waist belt was it generally is not a good idea to sew across the width of leather near a buckle or ring because it is a high stress point. In the case of my waist belt with the fairly substantial 5-7 oz. veg tanned leather I used, I stitched across the leather near the center bar of the buckle. I thought it would be a good idea and it would look better. What I found out was the leather cracked through the stitches from use, even though I properly finished and oiled and maintained the leather in that belt. I have done similar things to this before on the ends of slings where they attached to pouches, bags and cartridge boxes. I often made square or rectangular shaped “boxes” of stitching on the ends of those straps. But after the waist belt failed from the cross stitching, I re-examined how to attach the ends of slings to bags, etc. and how back in the 18th and early 19th century it was done on originals, and of course on belts as well.

They almost never sewed a “box” of stitching like that or across the width of the belt near the center bar of the buckle. On waist belts, they often just ran a line of stitches along the length of the belt on each side of the leather folded over the center bar of the buckle. Sometimes they added a third line of stitches running along the length in the center of the turned over leather as well. But they did not normally sew across the leather near the center bar. OOOOPPS !! I had missed or ignored that detail on some originals I had seen years ago. I went back and looked at some originals and then I realized why they had not sewn cross the width and close to the center bar of buckle or the rings on a hunting pouch, because just like on my belt, it could/would have caused the leather to fail there.

OK, sorry I had to go into a somewhat long explanation before getting back to your bag, but I thought it important to explain why I would suggest doing something different on your pouch. It is a nice touch to sew around the edge of the ring tabs like you did, but I would recommend you don’t sew across the width of the tabs, that form what looks a little like a flat top on the “tear drop” shape stitching there, next to where the tabs keep the rings in place. An open topped “U” shaped tear drop stitching will hold the tabs just as securely and you don’t risk the stitching breaking through the leather next to the rings. BTW, on original straps you do sometimes to often see a “U” of stitching on the ends of the strap where it attaches to the bag, BUT the flat bottom of the “U” of the stitching is at the very end of the strap where it does not have much stress. The open end of the “U” of the stitching is facing towards the middle of the strap and is subject to much more bending and twisting, so you don’t want the stitches across the leather there.

Please understand this are not huge points, but things that will make your future bags look better and in the case of not stitching across the leather near stress points, it will make parts of the bag last longer.

Gus
 
Artificer

Thank you for taking the time to help me

I will try to implement every one of your suggestions

Some of the things I had already realized and was trying to figure out a way to correct on the next bag

This is exactly what I was hoping for when I posted my work

Thank you
 
Back
Top