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Photos will help! You said it was purchased 5 years ago. Did it ever work properly?
Larry
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I give up!
- Thread starter Sun City
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Larry
Norman Brooks
45 Cal.
Yes it looks like it is installed correctly. My question is is when you **** it is the **** going all the way back to let the sear go past the fly. The only way to tell is install lock, **** it remove lock and see if the fly has fallen in to the right position. I had a gun I built do that and **** itself was hitting on wood on the outside of the lock.
Erzulis boat
45 Cal.
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That is a pic that I just took to show the OP with the issue (not me) what a correctly installed fly looks like, and how it functions-
Norman Brooks
45 Cal.
OOOPS
IMG_2927
IMG_2926
IMG_2925
IMG_2924
IMG_2923
Yup, the fly is installed backwards. See the bevel on the fly? Turn the fly over and your rifle will be fine.
Its also not dropping down to cover the half **** notch.
Its also not dropping down to cover the half **** notch.
20211008_150316 by Sharps Man, on Flickr
Sir....I'm somewhat dumb! I can build a Pratt & Whitney aircraft engine but I'm lost as to what exactly IS THE FLY and bevel! My IQ level right now on this is about 4 numbers higher than my #12 boot size!
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The fly is the pie shaped little critter on the tumbler right above the half **** notch. The bevel needs to be reversed to what it is. Take the fly off and turn it over. The bevel of the fly will then make the sear over ride the half ****. Easy fix for what ails your lock.
Larry
OK Larry! I'm going to continue this tomorrow because it appears that the only way I can get to the fly is to take a loose the main spring and I need a different size standard screw driver to get it loose! Thanks for your insight and I'll see if I can't get this thing right tomorrow! Thank you much....I'll post the results thereto!
Parts are much bigger on a Pratt and Whitney aircraft engine. @Sun City, you have also had extensive training on the engine and you are familiar with the parts.
You will need a main spring vise to relieve the tension of the mainspring so the mainspring can be safely removed from the lock. A screwdriver isn't the only tool you will need.
Mainspring Vise, to safely compress a mainspring - Track of the Wolf
In the picture below, @Erzulis boat is showing the tumbler with the bridle removed to show the fly. Its the little piece in the notch of the tumbler and the sear is resting on the fly. It has pushed the fly over the half **** notch and will ride over the notch and continue to rotate to strike the frizzen, make sparks and set off the charge in the pan
The half **** notch is just above the B in bevel. The nose of your sear is resting in the full **** notch. The bevel of the fly can also be seen and is facing the half **** notch when it should be facing the full **** and the nose of the sear.
Now that you, @Sun City, have the lock out and the hammer in full ****, does the fly move easily in the notch in the tumbler? If the bridle screws are too tight, that may bind the fly in the notch in the tumbler. Back the sear screw out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Does the fly move freely in the tumbler? Pull the hammer back slightly to get the nose of the sear out of the full **** notch. Lift the sear to allow the tumbler to begin to rotate past the nose of the sear and allow the nose of the sear to ride on the tumbler. The nose of the sear should push the fly forward to cover the half **** notch. Now the nose of the sear will ride on the fly and pass over the half **** notch. If the fly is installed backwards the nose of the sear will stop on the fly.
If you don't have the spring vise to take the lock apart, find a muzzle loading rifle gun smith to take the lock apart and install the fly correctly.
You will need a main spring vise to relieve the tension of the mainspring so the mainspring can be safely removed from the lock. A screwdriver isn't the only tool you will need.
Mainspring Vise, to safely compress a mainspring - Track of the Wolf
In the picture below, @Erzulis boat is showing the tumbler with the bridle removed to show the fly. Its the little piece in the notch of the tumbler and the sear is resting on the fly. It has pushed the fly over the half **** notch and will ride over the notch and continue to rotate to strike the frizzen, make sparks and set off the charge in the pan
The half **** notch is just above the B in bevel. The nose of your sear is resting in the full **** notch. The bevel of the fly can also be seen and is facing the half **** notch when it should be facing the full **** and the nose of the sear.
Now that you, @Sun City, have the lock out and the hammer in full ****, does the fly move easily in the notch in the tumbler? If the bridle screws are too tight, that may bind the fly in the notch in the tumbler. Back the sear screw out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Does the fly move freely in the tumbler? Pull the hammer back slightly to get the nose of the sear out of the full **** notch. Lift the sear to allow the tumbler to begin to rotate past the nose of the sear and allow the nose of the sear to ride on the tumbler. The nose of the sear should push the fly forward to cover the half **** notch. Now the nose of the sear will ride on the fly and pass over the half **** notch. If the fly is installed backwards the nose of the sear will stop on the fly.
If you don't have the spring vise to take the lock apart, find a muzzle loading rifle gun smith to take the lock apart and install the fly correctly.
Last edited:
This is the piece or 'fly' that I think you are speaking to however I don't see it can be turned over as there's a hold that the pin fits in!
IMG_2929 by Sharps Man, on Flickr
Looks like it was issued with a left hand lock flyThis is the piece or 'fly' that I think you are speaking to however I don't see it can be turned over as there's a hold that the pin fits in!
.It's cool how everyone is getting us closer to a fix.
Norman Brooks
45 Cal.
Davis lock.
Right there before my eyes while I was saying L& R! Thanks!
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