I have another screw loose...

[Pork Chop]

It appears that the cleanout screw in the patent breech of my TC .50 cal barrel is missing. Can anyone tell me the thread specs so that I can annoy my local hardware store for a replacement?

 

[nvbirdman]

I have two suggestions.
#1 Since TC has their lifetime warranty, if you ask they will probably send you one free.
#2 Unscrew the breech from the barrel, take the breech to the hardware store and find a screw that fits.

 

[Zonie]

You cannot remove the breech plug from a TC barrel without taking a very good chanch of ruining the barrel. Please, don't try to do this.

You will also void the warrenty if you do eventually remove the plug.

Just pull the barrel from the stock and take the whole thing to the Hardware store.


If someone asks you "is that a gun?", just say, "No, it's a very expensive pry bar for adjusting Hupmobile Transmissions." and keep on walking. :: ::

 

[roundball]

It appears that the cleanout screw in the patent breech of my TC .50 cal barrel is missing. Can anyone tell me the thread specs so that I can annoy my local hardware store for a replacement?

I agree with NVBirdman if you'll just call TC, they'll drop a couple in the mail to you...at least they did for me a few years ago...I personally don't agree with removing the breechplug however.

Reminder about cleanout screws on TC hooked breech barrels:

If you don't remove, clean, and lube the cleanout screw after every session, they will eventually freeze up, and then the screw driver slot will break off when you try to man handle it trying to remove it. ( :

HOWEVER...

If you clean TC's hooked breech barrels by removing/soaking/cleaning them in a large pail of steaming hot soapy water, then you don't ever have to bother removing a cleanout screw as that cleaning process will keep everything clean...and even if the cleanout screw rusts shut, it doesn't matter.

ie: TC quit making barrels with cleanout screws years and years ago as they are not needed.

 

The "cleanout" screw in my Lyman GPR is so tiny that I don't think it has anything to do with "clean-out". I rather think it is there just to secure the nipple in it's seat. :m2c:

 

[Pork Chop]

I called TC and they are sending me one! I broke the ramrod trying to clean out this pig, and they are sending me a replacement for it too!!

 

[Rebel]

You should get you a stainless steel or brass range rod for cleaning. Saves wear and tear on the ramrod.

 

[roundball]

You should get you a stainless steel or brass range rod for cleaning. Saves wear and tear on the ramrod.

I even replaced my rods on the rifles themselves with brass ones...

Since TC's plant fire back in the 90's, they never rebuilt their resin impregnated ramrod line and all their wood rods since are just cheap dowls for looks, too dangerous to use as far as I'm concerned...plus, I don't want to run the risk of being out in the woods and have one fold up on me, ruin a day's hunt, etc.

 

[walruskid1]

You should get you a stainless steel or brass range rod for cleaning. Saves wear and tear on the ramrod.

I even replaced my rods on the rifles themselves with brass ones...

Since TC's plant fire back in the 90's, they never rebuilt their resin impregnated ramrod line and all their wood rods since are just cheap dowls for looks, too dangerous to use as far as I'm concerned...plus, I don't want to run the risk of being out in the woods and have one fold up on me, ruin a day's hunt, etc.

i agree with the brass rod way to go, see thread - who has wood ramrod scars..... breakage seems to be fairly common. :m2c:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Makes you wonder why you never see a brass rammer on an original. :hmm: That's a lot or added weight to have to lug around the woods. Having a spare wood rammer for cleaning at home and along at camp or car as a hunt saver is a good idea.

I've never broken a wooden ramrod and I've been m/l since 1976 . . . my Renegade is a '82.

No law says you have to force a rammer. Load looser.

 

[roundball]

That's a lot or added weight to have to lug around the woods.

FYI...I've got the solid brass rods on deer rifles that I use on deer stands withing 1/4-1/2 mile of the truck...rarely ever still hunt;
I have a tubular brass rod on a .45 flinter I set up for squirrel hunting that I carry around some...it's also very strong

 

The "cleanout" screw in my Lyman GPR is so tiny that I don't think it has anything to do with "clean-out". I rather think it is there just to secure the nipple in it's seat. :m2c:

wha??
I have never seated the clean out screw 'so deep" as to "secure" the nipple,, gadd's,what are folks thinking now a day's,,,,,how can I help???

 

[Zonie]

The "Clean out screw" is there only because of the way they manufacture the gun.
It is not needed for cleaning.
It should never hit the nipple threads. If it does, it is screwed in to deeply.
God knows, the nipple threads are hard enough to unscrew sometimes without some stupid clean our screw being being driven into it's threads from the side!
IMO, screwing the clean out screw into the side of the nipple will damage the nipples threads. Then when the damaged nipple is removed, it's threads will ruin the threads in the drum or snail. Damanged threads in the drum or snail will not provide the strength needed to keep the nipple from blowing out. :imo:

 

[sfruhwirth]

I agree with Rebel to replace range rods with brass or steel rods and a bore saver for good measure. I also would recomend putting a good sized wooden ball or door knob on the end. This will help in loading and the ability to spot it easier if still in the muzzle. I have seen a couple of rods that have been shot down range due to inability to notice them, luckily no steel or brass. I would hate to see the damage from such an accident. "yikes"

For the same reason I would be weary of using brass as a replacement for the field rod in the gun. It would certainly ruin a good deer season for anyone. I would rather recomend a synthetic or fiberglass lighter weight rod for the field. :imo: :m2c:

 

[Black Hand]

I boogered up the screw slot of the clean-out screw in in my Cabelas' .54, and tried to remove it with a screw-out. Not very successfull!!! So I cut a piece of a lock bolt I had at home (much larger diameter) and re-threaded the hole and had a new clean-out screw. Being a larger diameter, it is easier to remove without ruining the slot. The new one fits better too.
Black Hand

 

[roundball]

".....I would be weary of using brass as a replacement for the field rod in the gun. It would certainly ruin a good deer season for anyone. I would rather recomend a synthetic or fiberglass lighter weight rod for the field.

I don't understand...been using brass ramrods in my hunting rifles for years...what is the problem you feel they create compared to a synthetic or fiberglass ?
::

 

[sfruhwirth]

Oh don't get me wrong...

I'm sure they work great..

Just would hate to have someone get in a hurry loading a second shot and forget the rod in the muzzle while out chasing the great bambi. Not that it's happend to me.. But I know my mind is a buzzing when the chase is on..

I'm sure that happened a lot during battle back in the day.

Just something for someone to keep in mind. :blue:

 

[Pork Chop]

Well, I got the cleanout screw from TC, and it appears to be a bit larger than the hole. Now I need to round up a tap to clean it out. Oh the joys! Still, I am having fun. The replacement (wood) ramrod should arrive in the next day or two. I am contemplating a range rod which can have the big handle on it.

 

[roundball]

Now I need to round up a tap to clean it out.

FWIW, I have an old style TC barrel/breech with the cleanout screw and mine is an 8x32"

 

[Pork Chop]

Thanks! Now to go buy a tap that I will use one time and lose. Just what I love to do...