I purchased a Lyman GPR kit. It came in this weekend, I'm on fire and ready to get started. However, I don't want to get ahead of myself. Has anyone ever had one of those "wish I had thought about this before I started" moments, or any advice on the decisions I need to make now before diving in?
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"I wish I had..."
- Thread starter evanschd
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It seems that almost every kit I have done, I rushed things because I wanted to get out and shoot it. On the GPR, there is so little to do on the assembly, I wish I would have just slapped it together quick with no finish, run out back and shoot it til I had that out of my system, then cleaned it, took it apart, and then put it back together taking my time. Depending on your jurisdiction, you might consider draw filing all the lawyer talk off the barrel. I cleaned mine off and I think it looks a lot better.
#1 inventory the box
#2 inspect all of the components
#3 see how things fit together piece by piece without any fasteners, loosely.
#4 sharpen your tools...
#5 get new screws for those escrutions.
#5 build it just like you'd do from scratch, just that a lot of the in between steps have been fully or semi completed for you.
That stock has A LOT of extra wood on it. You and your rasp are going to be on a first name basis. Take this extra wood off LAST, after everything is fit and assembled.
#2 inspect all of the components
#3 see how things fit together piece by piece without any fasteners, loosely.
#4 sharpen your tools...
#5 get new screws for those escrutions.
#5 build it just like you'd do from scratch, just that a lot of the in between steps have been fully or semi completed for you.
That stock has A LOT of extra wood on it. You and your rasp are going to be on a first name basis. Take this extra wood off LAST, after everything is fit and assembled.
jp grabski
32 Cal.
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It's a hobby somthing to help you relax and enjoy If you rush this build,you'll rush the next.If you want to rush on a project check the honeydew list.
Take your time.
Most all of the critical stuff has been done at the factory. You'll be concentrating most of your efforts on final fit, shaping, and the finishing. No reason to skimp there, the kits can make fine looking rifles - nicer than the factory assembled ones if you want them to.
Rootsy is correct about the extra wood. I was ready to finish mine three times, and each time I stepped back and thought it still looked fat, and took it down some more. Looking back, I should have gone further in some areas. I did most of the shaping with coarse sandpaper, working my way up to the finer stuff. I used small wood blocks for almost all of the sanding.
I thought at times I'd never finish prepping the metal furniture, removing the foundry marks with files and abrasive cloth in preparation for rust bluing. That seemed to take forever.
Oh, and the tiny escutcheon screws - they break easily! I recommend drilling the holes out a little bigger, or getting better screws. Soap the threads too. I used the supplied ones, but did have to grind one out carefully with a Dremel and a small mill type of cutter after splitting the head.
Feel free to look at my GPR kit from start to finish in pictures here.
Also search the forums here for GPR. You'll see lots of different ways they've been finished. Pick and choose the things you like to make yours 'yours'.
Most all of the critical stuff has been done at the factory. You'll be concentrating most of your efforts on final fit, shaping, and the finishing. No reason to skimp there, the kits can make fine looking rifles - nicer than the factory assembled ones if you want them to.
Rootsy is correct about the extra wood. I was ready to finish mine three times, and each time I stepped back and thought it still looked fat, and took it down some more. Looking back, I should have gone further in some areas. I did most of the shaping with coarse sandpaper, working my way up to the finer stuff. I used small wood blocks for almost all of the sanding.
I thought at times I'd never finish prepping the metal furniture, removing the foundry marks with files and abrasive cloth in preparation for rust bluing. That seemed to take forever.
Oh, and the tiny escutcheon screws - they break easily! I recommend drilling the holes out a little bigger, or getting better screws. Soap the threads too. I used the supplied ones, but did have to grind one out carefully with a Dremel and a small mill type of cutter after splitting the head.
Feel free to look at my GPR kit from start to finish in pictures here.
Also search the forums here for GPR. You'll see lots of different ways they've been finished. Pick and choose the things you like to make yours 'yours'.
Super post Tweek!!!! I really appreciate you guys sharing experience and advice. I have an 11 y/o son who is going to help me with this project, knowing that one day it will be his. I want to make it as memorable as possible and really provide with with a nice firearm.
Thanks guys! :hatsoff:
Thanks guys! :hatsoff:
If you already know this just figure that I'm telling the new-comers that don't.
When shaping a bare wood stock like the one with your kit a rough sandpaper can remove a lot of wood fairly quickly if the sanding direction is across the grain.
Just before the stock is down to the size you want change the direction of sanding so that it is "with the grain".
From this point on, all sanding with the finer grades of sandpaper must be "with the grain".
Because sanding across the grain leaves some rather deep scratches these must all be removed before any finishing oils are applied.
If they are not, they will show up like a sore thumb.
Also, some folks sand their stocks using finer and finer grades of sandpaper.
I've even heard of some that went to 600 grit paper before they thought their wood was smooth enough.
In my opinion sanding bare wood with anything finer than 320 grit is a total waste of time.
The grain of the wood is courser than that, especially Walnut.
While your sanding, you need to ask yourself whether you want the open grain filled to make a very smooth finish or you want to leave the open grain open.
If you think you will want the grain filled, save the sanding dust from the stock in a paper envelope. You can mix it with linseed oil later on to make an excellent grain filling paste.
Have fun and keep on asking questions. That's the best way to learn and the best way to avoid mistakes.
When shaping a bare wood stock like the one with your kit a rough sandpaper can remove a lot of wood fairly quickly if the sanding direction is across the grain.
Just before the stock is down to the size you want change the direction of sanding so that it is "with the grain".
From this point on, all sanding with the finer grades of sandpaper must be "with the grain".
Because sanding across the grain leaves some rather deep scratches these must all be removed before any finishing oils are applied.
If they are not, they will show up like a sore thumb.
Also, some folks sand their stocks using finer and finer grades of sandpaper.
I've even heard of some that went to 600 grit paper before they thought their wood was smooth enough.
In my opinion sanding bare wood with anything finer than 320 grit is a total waste of time.
The grain of the wood is courser than that, especially Walnut.
While your sanding, you need to ask yourself whether you want the open grain filled to make a very smooth finish or you want to leave the open grain open.
If you think you will want the grain filled, save the sanding dust from the stock in a paper envelope. You can mix it with linseed oil later on to make an excellent grain filling paste.
Have fun and keep on asking questions. That's the best way to learn and the best way to avoid mistakes.
zonie's advice is right on.
i'm not all qualified to make comments on these guns or kits as i am just in the proces of researching my first muzzleloader build as well. i do, however, have 30 year's experience building furniture,grandfather clocks and all other sorts of woodworking behind me and have built several high power guns.
i might add reguarding sanding and sandpaper...
another thing to keep in mind is it is best to always use fresh sharp sandpaper. it will cost a bit more as abrasives are no longer cheap, using dulled sandpaer will do much to dull the finished sharpness of the color and grain in your stock by crushing and flatening the fibers instead of cutting them cleany. part of the clear, sharp appearance of decent fancy wood is because the surface is cut clean and it is open to accept the clear finish you work so hard to rub on. it is this openness that gives the finish it depth and contrast in the wood's figure and grain structure. in essence the open end grain needs to be filled in order to bring it's finnished surface up to the rest of the finish, but the openess should be filled with the finish to keep it's color and show it's grain structure. slurry sand will certainly fill the open grain, but it allot to dull the apearance of the grain's structure and contrast.
adding the use of dull over-used sandpaper to the mix and sometimes an otherwise beutiful, albeit considered "plain" piece of wood can end up looking as though it has even less grain structure than it really has.
i'm not all qualified to make comments on these guns or kits as i am just in the proces of researching my first muzzleloader build as well. i do, however, have 30 year's experience building furniture,grandfather clocks and all other sorts of woodworking behind me and have built several high power guns.
i might add reguarding sanding and sandpaper...
another thing to keep in mind is it is best to always use fresh sharp sandpaper. it will cost a bit more as abrasives are no longer cheap, using dulled sandpaer will do much to dull the finished sharpness of the color and grain in your stock by crushing and flatening the fibers instead of cutting them cleany. part of the clear, sharp appearance of decent fancy wood is because the surface is cut clean and it is open to accept the clear finish you work so hard to rub on. it is this openness that gives the finish it depth and contrast in the wood's figure and grain structure. in essence the open end grain needs to be filled in order to bring it's finnished surface up to the rest of the finish, but the openess should be filled with the finish to keep it's color and show it's grain structure. slurry sand will certainly fill the open grain, but it allot to dull the apearance of the grain's structure and contrast.
adding the use of dull over-used sandpaper to the mix and sometimes an otherwise beutiful, albeit considered "plain" piece of wood can end up looking as though it has even less grain structure than it really has.
Onojutta
45 Cal.
Just remember that a fine rifle is not built, it is crept up upon.
