Identification

[steve bliss]

As I said in my intro post, I'm new to this site. I bought a used Invest arm .54 cal rifle yesterday. It is in very good shape. I would say it's a carbine cause the barrel length is short. But that's as much as I know about it. I would like to learn more - starting with the model. The serial number is 269745. Is there a site that I can find out more about this rifle using the S/N? I also bought a used cap and ball revolver made by Connecticut Valley Arms. It's in pretty good shape. But I can't find any serial number or any other information on it. Not even the caliber. Where can I find any information on it? Steve

 

[Grenadier1758]

@steve bliss, pictures would help, otherwise we can offer no more information than what you gave us.

Measuring the bore of the revolver would help and also a picture. No serial number, then it is likely an early kit.

 

[justinoldguy]

As I said in my intro post, I'm new to this site. I bought a used Invest arm .54 cal rifle yesterday. It is in very good shape. I would say it's a carbine cause the barrel length is short. But that's as much as I know about it. I would like to learn more - starting with the model. The serial number is 269745. Is there a site that I can find out more about this rifle using the S/N? I also bought a used cap and ball revolver made by Connecticut Valley Arms. It's in pretty good shape. But I can't find any serial number or any other information on it. Not even the caliber. Where can I find any information on it? Steve

As a previous reply stated, pics would be a tremendous help. Investarms are good rifles, their "Hawken" has been around since at least the 1970's with very little change. It has been sold under a wide variety of names, including Cabelas, Charles Daly, Navy Arms, and I'm sure many others. At some point, it was also offered as a "Hunter Hawken", lacking the brass parts, and having a rubber butt pad (I got one labeled "Cabelas" in .54) The same rifle was produced with a short 21" barrel carbine version. The rifle has a 1 in 48" rifling, while the carbine has a much faster twist rate, made for plastic bullets and other stuff I don't use. Probably will not shoot well with a PRB, except perhaps at low velocity. Your CVA revolver could be about anything, most likely a brass frame 1851 Navy replica of some sort. It will be either a .36 (.375 ball), or a .44 rsion(.451-.454 ball). If it has been shot much, and has a brass frame, it is probable that it has suffered some stretching over the years. Many guys, myself included, were first introduced to cap and ball revolvers back in the 1970's with just such a gun as I described. I still have mine in .36, and still shoot it occasionally with light loads.

 

[steve bliss]

@steve bliss, pictures would help, otherwise we can offer no more information than what you gave us.

Measuring the bore of the revolver would help and also a picture. No serial number, then it is likely an early kit.

the bore measures 0.441. I found a serial number 102591 (it was on the inside of the trigger guard. I'll try to attach a picture of it.

Ok, I couldn't get it to work for sending a picture. I did go to Connecticut Arms site for cap and ball pistols and saw some that looked like mine. Much of the frame - trigger guard, around the hammer and around the wooder grips is all brass.

 

[Grenadier1758]

@steve bliss, you most likely have one of the brass framed 1851 "Navy" revolvers in the fantasy caliber of 44. Once all the preserving greases have been removed from the chambers in the cylinder, and the nipples are clean, the cylinder can be loaded. The empty cylinder can be capped with #10 or #11 percussion caps. You will have to measure the top of the nipple's cone to determine the proper fitting cap. #11 caps can be slightly pinched to fit the #10 nipples. Fire the caps to clear any residual grease from the nipples and verify that the hammer can set off the caps. I strongly recommend 3Fg real black powder for a charge of about 22 grains measured by volume. If you can only find substitute powders, the powder charge is still measured by volume as that will perform just about the same as the same volume of black powder. Get some over powder 44 caliber wads to be placed between the powder and the ball. A SOFT LEAD ball of 0.454" diameter can then be swaged into the chamber. A ring of lead should be shaved off indicating a gas seal to the chamber as the ball is set gently on the powder and wad. Some will recommend a smear of grease such as Crisco to lubricate the barrel on shooting and to keep the fouling soft. Percussion caps can now be fit to the nipples in preparation for firing.

The Colt revolver of 1851 had a roll engraved cylinder depicting a navy battle scene. The caliber was 36 and used a 0.375" diameter ball. This was a very popular revolver and when the Confederacy needed a revolver, a copy of the 36 Navy was developed using brass for the frame, backstrap and trigger guard. The caliber was always 36. To provide modern shooters with a more powerful 44 caliber revolver that looked like a Confederate revolver, the 44 Navy was created. There's a lot more to the revolver and I have only hinted at some of the information available.

 

[steve bliss]

Thank you for this information. I'm getting some of the wads that you recommended and will be ready to 'load' up and try this. I can't wait!

 

[steve bliss]

Same revolver, new question. When I pull the hammer back to full cock, it doesn't catch an stay. But if i pull the trigger forward, it stays and works well. So, what is causing this and what can i do to fix it?