Reading an issue is hard to diagnose without actually seeing in person. My thought from what I am hearing is that one or both of the trigger bars might be too high. That could happen if the person who installed the triggers tightened the trigger plate screw/screws too tight, OR the mortice is too deep. If the locks work outside the stock and the internal lock parts are not rubbing on wood, then triggers are the issue. I take a caliper depth gauge and measure the distance between the finish stock where the trigger plate should be flush to the sear. Then measure the distance from finish side of the trigger plate to the top of the trigger bar. If they don't match, you have located the issue. If you do not have a depth caliper, shim the triggers with a piece of cardboard that is off the back of a notebook. If the trigger bar is pushing on the sear that will keep the lock from going into full cock.I guess the next step is removing the trigger because I still have to manually push the trigger forward to be able to fire the left barrel and/or re-cock the right barrel? This is a brand new gun and shouldn't be giving me these issues dang it.
Ok, thanks Mr. ZonieCongratulations Hawk78.
Now that the problem is fixed, I will move this thread to the Smoothbore section where it belongs.
The pin that goes between the two tiggers was the issue, along with too much wood inside the lock mortise. I put the pin back into proper position and problem is fixed for now. But after talking with SDmilf, we came to the conclusion that I need to measure that pin and get one a little longer to prevent this from happening again. I'm so glad I joined this club!Reading an issue is hard to diagnose without actually seeing in person. My thought from what I am hearing is that one or both of the trigger bars might be too high. That could happen if the person who installed the triggers tightened the trigger plate screw/screws too tight, OR the mortice is too deep. If the locks work outside the stock and the internal lock parts are not rubbing on wood, then triggers are the issue. I take a caliper depth gauge and measure the distance between the finish stock where the trigger plate should be flush to the sear. Then measure the distance from finish side of the trigger plate to the top of the trigger bar. If they don't match, you have located the issue. If you do not have a depth caliper, shim the triggers with a piece of cardboard that is off the back of a notebook. If the trigger bar is pushing on the sear that will keep the lock from going into full cock.
Hang in there Hawk78!
Flintlocklar
I tend to agree with you that it is usually difficult to diagnose problems without the gun in hand, but this case was kind of unique. @Hawk78 wasn’t looking looking for someone to solve the problem, but rather he was looking for someone to help him solve a problem. I had shot a round of sporting clays (60 shots) yesterday with virtually the identical gun, which I had yet to assemble post cleaning. With the same gun in front of me, I was able to basically duplicate the step by step troubleshooting process Hawk was trying on his gun on my gun, and with Hawk’s willingness and drive to resolve the issue, it was pretty easy. He figured it out, I just tossed ideas at him. I’m willing to bet that in the future if someone has a similar issue Hawk will be able to successfully walk them through the troubleshooting process.Reading an issue is hard to diagnose without actually seeing in person.
Well Done! Glad you could help a fellow muzzleloader.I tend to agree with you that it is usually difficult to diagnose problems without the gun in hand, but this case was kind of unique. @Hawk78 wasn’t looking looking for someone to solve the problem, but rather he was looking for someone to help him solve a problem. I had shot a round of sporting clays (60 shots) yesterday with virtually the identical gun, which I had yet to assemble post cleaning. With the same gun in front of me, I was able to basically duplicate the step by step troubleshooting process Hawk was trying on his gun on my gun, and with Hawk’s willingness and drive to resolve the issue, it was pretty easy. He figured it out, I just tossed ideas at him. I’m willing to bet that in the future if someone has a similar issue Hawk will be able to successfully walk them through the troubleshooting process.
Welcome to the Forum; we love you, we're not like the rest!The pin that goes between the two tiggers was the issue, along with too much wood inside the lock mortise. I put the pin back into proper position and problem is fixed for now. But after talking with SDmilf, we came to the conclusion that I need to measure that pin and get one a little longer to prevent this from happening again. I'm so glad I joined this club!
It's a new era - one of mass production shortcuts and budget cuts. Back in the 20th Century, there was more pride in workmanship and more quality control. More hands on each firearm before it was just yanked off the final assembly rack & stuffed into a box.You are correct, a new gun should not have these issues.
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