In letting black substitute

[eggwelder]

really soft graphite drawing pencils. Standard pencils are graded HB. the ones you used in school for math class. then they go up in H numbers like H1, H2 H3 and so on to about H8 or 9. those are so hard they barely mark paper. these were normally used in drafting and penciled engineer drawings before they inked them.
And the opposite with the B grading. Higher the number, softer they are, darker the mark left.
the B grades around 2 - 3 work best because they seem to stick better, and will mark smooth steel better than harder grades

 

[rusty]

I have read that a magic marker will work ok.

 

[Zonie]

The time I tried using magic markers the (in this case black) color didn't transfer to the wood and it barely rubbed off of the metal part.

Maybe I wasn't using the right kind of marker but the ink dried in seconds after I applied it.

As for the transfer agent I use, it's the little plastic container of inletting black.

I've had it for 20 years and it's getting down to the bottom of the jar now.

I apply it with a small hair brush normally used for painting models.

To break in a new brush I apply a light coating of the agent and then work it into the bristles with a paper towel. Once coated, I never clean this brush or use it for anything else.

To use the brush I just lightly touch the bristles on the agent and then very lightly paint the surface on the metal part with it.
I'd say the coating thickness is less than a thousandth of an inch thick.

This is enough to transfer the black to any high areas on the wood that has the audacity to interfere with the metal part.

Just as important, the places where the black has been transferred to the wood leaves a bare spot on the metal surface.

I've found that studying the metal surface often gives me a better feeling for what's really happening and where the interference are.

More than once, I noticed clean areas quite some distance away from where I was working where the black was removed.

This usually happened with the rough cast surface on the inside of butt plates.

Yes, I get the stuff on my fingers and hands and yes, it rubs off on the stock but this isn't a big deal.
Once I'm finished installing an item, a very light sanding with some 220 grit sandpaper removes all of the black discoloration.

 

[Onojutta]

I also can't use the inletting black that comes in can. I can't seem to apply it evenly and end up with it all over the place, and it's a real mess to clean up.

From a tip on this forum several years ago, I now use a "hurricane lamp" or lantern that they sell at hardware stores everywhere. Simply remove the glass globe, and turn the wick up to produce a big flame. Pass the part through the tip of the flame a few times and you have a nice even coating of soot that works great and is much easier to clean up, especially with rubbing alcohol. A candle may work just the same, but with the lamp I like that you can adjust the flame.

 

[srspicer]

I have a small container of the Jerrow's inletting black, works great. I also have a 'dual pencil' eyeliner & eyeshadow. The eyeliner end is very soft, like a grease pencil, the eyeshadow end is slightly more firm. This works great as well.

Its all messy, but that's how you know you are being precise! I also cover the stock with tape to keep the mess down, best of both worlds imho.