In the white

[Nemovir]

Is it ok to leave the barrel and metal parts in the white?

 

[coloradoclyde]

Yes....if that's the look you're going for.....but it won't stay that was forever.....The steel will eventually oxidize and passivize tuning an uneven greyish patina with time and use...

Certain acids will speed up this process....Basically that's all bluing and browning really are...

The metal still has to be protected from rusting....

Wood definitely has to be treated with something...

 

[Vaino]

If you mean to maintain the "in white" condition....good luck. But if a
natural aging of the metal parts is wanted, please read the following paragraphs.

I don't like the period of time that it takes to acquire a half way decent looking patina if the bbl and metal parts started "white". The first stages of this slow process are "ugly" and really look as though the gun is being grossly neglected.

There are many metal finishes that are much quicker...so why not have a finish that eliminates the "ugly" stage? Unless one is prepared to spend an inordinate amount of time to keep the metal parts forever "white".....Fred

 

[tenngun]

Brits used brick dust to polish barrels. I love brown but white then alowed to grey is a look that grows on you I only have one browned gun fight now.

 

[galamb]

Yes, it's ok.

Many original Ohio rifles were left that way and they are a thing of beauty now (if you love "later" percussion rifles).

But I'm with Fred on this one. Most of us don't have 150 years to let "nature" give the gun that decent look.

When I was on my Ohio building jag I gave the barrels/lock plates/hammer etc two coats of cold blue (Birchwood Casey Super blue to be exact).

It turns the steel a light grey and offers very minimal protection against rust.

From there I just kept the metal wiped down with oil (not psychotic about it, but a light oil wipe once every couple of months while stored and after each outing). No rust, no problems.

 

[Nemovir]

I was hoping to just let it rust naturally, but it appear to take decades. Ok will go with Laurel Mountain kit.

 

[Nativearizonan]

The flintlock TC Hawken I bought, which is over 40 years old was a kit and was left in the white, and I kind of like the look of it. Dark blue or dark brown gets boring.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/1522726/

Just be sure to oil the metal to keep it from rusting.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I was hoping to just let it rust naturally,

Don't do that..... :nono: Rust is bad......it is uncontrolled active corrosion.....it will pit and everything else........Bad idea....

 

[Stumpkiller]

There are things you can do to speed the aging. One good thing about in the white is that if you take non-aggressive steps to darken it and you're not happy with them you can get it back to in the white with a 3-M Metal Polishing pad (or steel wool if you are brave) and maybe a bit of Flitz.

But you do want to avoid pitting for sure. Also blotchy darker spots may not appeal to you.

Apply something like bleach or hydrogen peroxide and rinse it off. But be sure to oil the surface to stabalize it. If you want to try more use acetone or 91% alcohol to remove the oil and repeat.

Bluing is very similar to rust (Fe3O4 -> magnetite vs. Fe2O3 -> Iron Oxide = rust).

 

[Cowboy]

I Have a CVA kit gun that was in thw white but wanted to give it an aged grey patina look. Cleaned the barrel real good with BC Cleaner and Degreaser to get ant traces of oil or finger prints off. Then I cold blued the barrel, then took 0000 steelwool and brought the dark color back abit to a dull grey look. That is the look that I was after and it turned out with an aged patina look. Then put a light coat of oil on it. Was very quick and easy to do that gave me the desired looks I was wanting. To each his own though! Its a do your own thing game here. Respectfully, cowboys1062.

 

[jamesthomas]

I have a .50 cal. that I left the barrel in the white, it really doesn't take that long to get a nice patina, I rubbed mine down with oil and a bit of fouling from the barrel after shooting at the range. It maybe took 3 years or so to get a nice dark grey patina.

 

[tenngun]

I don't think blurring or browning do very much to protect a barrel from rust. I can't say my in the white aged barrels are any harder to clean or care for with out having busing or browning. Wash dry oil repeat as needed

 

[Vaino]

I usually use LMF browning on all my builds, but thought I'd try a rubbed back cold blue {44/40}. Well....the finish was very nice, but then a couple days later, the finish had a coat of rust.

Asked for help and Smallpatch {Dane} offered the solution. Use CLP on the steel wool and then rub back the cold blue. Did just that and after a thorough wipe, applied more CLP and voila....no rust.

I have to admit that the "look" of the rubbed back 44/40 is really nice and just might do it on my last build. One good thing...it only took 15 mins.

I didn't go so far as to obtain a really old look by first using LMF to extremes for a pitted, etched surface, rubbing back to bare metal and then applying the 44/40 and rubbing that back. Some might like this "old look".

I guess whatever metal finish appeals to a person is the way to go. Shown below is the LR w/ the rubbed back 44/40.....Fred

 

[Rifleman1776]

Is it ok to leave the barrel and metal parts in the white?

It is yer rifle gun. This is a do yer own thang game. Yes, OK to do wat you want as long as it is safe.
But, as others have advised, time and use will give it an aged look. Just like their owners. :wink:

 

[Cowboy]

Like Rifleman1776 says " It's a do your own thang game"! I like his saying and have stole his quote when talking with people on more than one occasion. First time I heard him say it, I said I like that and have to remember it! It is so true here. So many ways of doing things to achieve the same goal. What looks great to one don't look so good to the other. In the end and it is yours and if you are satisfied with the look you want, GREAT! Like Rifleman1776 says: ( Its a do your own thang game") Respectfully, cowboys1062.

 

[Cowboy]

I decided to restore the Frankenstein pistol. I took the pistol apart and soaked the barrel, and took the lock apart and soaked them too, trigger mech. apart. Soaked everything in Evaporust for a day. Took 0000 steelwool to everything until in the white. Then reblued everything. Used the steel wool again on the barrel and lockplate and hammer and brought them back to a light grey in color. Left the sights and lock bolt dark blued. Polished all the brass up. To my surprise the tang was also brass. It was so dark and corroded, I couldn't tell it was brass at first. Cleaned the stock with a little liquid soap and water, not to hurt the original finish and hand rubbed a couple coats of tru-oil into it. Oiled the lock and put the pistol back together. Lastly put a coat of Renaissance wax on it and called it done. Put about 18 hours work into it but is now presentable, functionable, and ready for the range. Here are some Pics. Respectfully, cowboys1062.

 

[Cowboy]

 

[Vaino]

An etched, matte finish browning is quite impervious to rust....this kind of surface "captures" any oil or wax and in addition, browning is neutralized rust and doesn't rust again. I infrequently lube the browned finish on my hunting MLers and even after repeated handling, don't rust. Bluing depends on the type of blue.....a smooth or hot blue will rust but a cold blue that has a finish similar to a cold brown, won't rust.....Fred