inletting black??

[Brad Foust]

Please guys, bear with this novice...
I been using lipstick for inletting on this my first project in 25 or 30 years.
Worked "ok" but not great on the barrel, tank, lock & trigger.
Now I'm trying the entry RR pipe and having allot of problems. Already think I will have to patch a little wood in the RR channel ahead of it. It has moved back some but thee patches will be small. I am learning.
Problem is, the lipstick does not coat the very smooth brass pipe very well, and transfers to the wood even worse.
There is a show this weekend and maybe I can get some regular product there. But I have seen folks reccomending other things to use. Any ideas??
Or any techniques I might try on the entry pipe???
Thanks

 

[sean30ber]

I've used both in-letting black from Track of the wolf and I've used the candle technique. Keep a candle lit and hold the piece above the at just the top of the flame. It will cover it with soot, the soot is your black. Adjust the height as needed to turn it black. Your not trying to heat the piece just cover it with soot, only takes a few seconds. repeat as needed. Maybe others have better ideas.

 

[LRB]

I use soot from a candle or oil lamp, and sometimes a magic marker. The commercial black is messy to use and ends up all over everything in my experience, and is not easily removed. The soot can be a little messy, but not as bad as the store bought. Course I have to plead guilty to being kinda sloppy with the stuff.

 

[galamb]

I'm with Wick on this one.

Have one of those little hurricane lamps and burn the paraffin based lamp oil.

If you turn the wick up a bit she smokes real good. The soot transfers well and pretty much just wipes off when you are done (particularly off metal).

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

I use a candle as I worry about the lamp oil and flame on my work bench.

 

[LaBonte]

I get red ocher and mix it with linseed oil - easy cleanup and it does not leave black marks only reddish brown which tends to match up with the final color easier than black...

 

[necchi]

I an the Oil lamp like galamb shows.
I found a small one at a junk store for a $1 with a little wick, pull the glass chimney off then turn the wick high when I need soot turn it back down for stand by,,
You can get a good heavy layer of soot or a little just with the wick height.

What I like best is it cleans easily with just a wipe of a damp cloth, I can clean the soot off the areas I don't need it before I place the item on the wood. I can avoid that messy "black all over" everything job that happens. You get better with practice,, there's a learning curve.

For all my thimbles especially the entry, I file back the tab quite a bit from the ends of the pipe. Factory pipes have a generous tab and it's really not needed. For the Entry, I'll use one of the front pipes and inlet that where I want the entry going down first, then I'll come back with the full entry piece and inlet the tang part of the entry. Back and down,, Back and down.
The Entry pipe is as much fun as the Butt Plate!!

 

[Brad Foust]

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.
I'll try both candle and lamp.
Now, I really liked the idea og inletting a straight pipe first, then the tab. But then you said back and down??
If I already have the regular pipe inlet, I understand down with the tab, but if I move it back also then it will no longer be right for the pipe parts??
Or am I missing something important??
Thanks again

 

[necchi]

I'm a poor explainer. (I'm good at show ya,)
You'll see the "back" part when the tang or end of the entry starts going rearward into the forearm.
Ya kinda keep moving it back until it meets where your entrys pipe part reaches the channel.
Hopefully someone else that's better with the words can add,,

 

[gunmaker43]

I've tried everything I think, and don't like a flame on the bench either, Jarrow's blk is good but I end up with it all over me. Lately been using a dry erase marker, the kind for white boards--works alright...Tom

 

[kaintuck]

You need to go down into the wood, not back......otherwise, you will keep going back an back.......
I use my 90degree square gouge at this point.

 

[Brad Foust]

Here is what I think to be an important question??
Do you shape the forearm before inletting the entry pipe or do it square??
The curve on the tab seemed to be too tight a radius than my forearm will be.
I have it pretty well in but not completed. I think I have to stop until I shape the forearm??
I really dont know if I am up to this?
Thanks all

 

[Vaino]

Normally an entry pipe will move towards the muzzle and to prevent this, I bear the forward edge of the long or uncut mounting lug against the forward edge of the slot of the forend. Of course both have to be parallel. Doing this positions the entry pipe the same w/ each "spotting".

Have used "Permatex" spotting compound since starting to build in 1976 and have no problems w/ it. The remnants of the Permatex disappear when finishing......Fred