Inletting swamped barrel on precarve stock

[Swamp Buck]

I have watched the James Turpin video on building muzzleloading rifles - in this video a straight octagon barrel is installed and in a final step the butt of the rifle is "bounced" on the floor to insure the rear of the barrel is square and flush with the breach area of the wooden stock.

Obviously this will not work with a swamped barrel since it can't slide straight back in the barrel channel.

For you expert builders, what is the best way to do the final installing/inletting of a swamped barrel in a precarved stock to make sure the breach end of the barrel is flush with the wood in the stock. Obviously no mistake can be made here and be left with a gap of any sort.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated so I know in advance what to expect on a future purchase.

 

[pathfinderifh]

Hey Swampbuck,If everything went right and your barrel is already touching theback of the channel,tapping the stock on the ground will allow a very slight amount of movement of the barrel.with the fore stock slimmed down,ther would be enough give to allow the barrel to slide a few thousand's. The taper is such that it won't restrict a very slight amount of movement.Guess I should buy some video's and learn how to do these things :hmm:

 

[LRB]

With a pre-carve that is inlet for the lock, you need to get the lock inletted first, or at least far enough to determine your vent hole position, then inlet the barrel breech accordingly, whether this leaves it with movement or not. The vent position will be of more importance than hairline gaps in the stock fit. Slight gaps can be filled with beeswax, and none be the wiser in the finished gun. A barrel should not have to be pried from it's bed, or you may end up cracking the thin fore stock.

 

[Birddog6]

That is correct. On a precqarve you shoudl inlet the lock about 85-90% so you can move the barrel to where you need it to align the vent position. I have upon occasion has to raise the barrel or lower the barrel & almost always have to move them back a tad. You can usually move the barrel 1/4 to 3/8" back & not effect the barrel inlet. I usually blacken the end of the breech & lay the barrel in the channel carefully & then bump the muzzle with a deadblow hammer & mark the breech to stock fit, remove the barrel & then work on the fit that it marked.

 

[Swamp Buck]

Thanks for everyones responses. I had been under the impression that with a swamped barrel inletted into the stock it wouldn't allow for any movement rearward at all. Knowing that it can move back even a very small amount helps.

 

[Birddog6]

Just for clarification, I should mention that you usually cannot move the back more than 3/8" because if you move it too far back you will not be able to get the rear lock bolt across to the sideplate if the barrel is in the way. :hmm: