If that works for you, fine. But some rifles require a tapered rod and brass tips do not allow that. I have done it both ways. For rifles used in the field I use an extension so the rod sticks about 2" beyond the muzzle. Easier to handle that way.
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Installing tips on wooden ramrods...........
- Thread starter ETipp
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Good point. I just cut this ramrod to length. Its cut even with the end of the muzzle. I had to go with only one tip due to the ramrod having to be narrowed down on the end that contacts the spring. Wouldn't work with the tip end installed.
Lately, and due to the shoddy factory ramrod being too short, I've been keeping the cleaning jag on the ramrod while out hunting. Makes it much easier to deal with. I have that same cleaning jag on the end of the new ramrod now as well. I can deal with it sticking out a little bit while hunting.
Vintage Gunsmith
32 Cal
I noticed one post indicating the rod was sanded to provide room in the rod channel if moisture caused the rod to swell. if the rod and the rod channel are both sealed with a penetrating sealer, swelling of either shouldn't be a problem. I have soaked my rods in kerosene which seemed to cure any swelling but, eventually the kerosene in the wood evaporates, leaving the rod again subject to swelling. There is nothing like hunting or shooting in the rain to make you aware of the value of sealing the wood--hard to get the next shot loaded with the rod stuck in the stock.
Sidney Smith
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I never pull balls with a wooden rod. For this purpose, I made a special steel rod with threaded ends to allow threaded ball pullers and a T handle.
Respectfully, that works on the range but is not so handy while hunting in the woods a couple miles from yer truck.
Sidney Smith
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Very true, but why would one need to pull a ball while hunting anyway, unless maybe dry balled?
Actually, I sanded the entire ramrod due to it being too large for the bore. I sanded it to where there is sufficient room for expansion, or I hope so anyway. If not, then I can always take it down a bit more. For now I wiped the ramrod down with used motor oil for color and to somewhat seal it. I will no doubt go back and reseal/restain it later on.
What I had to do in order for it to fit down into the stock channel and past the retaining spring was to barely round and reshape the very end if the rod. Fortunately it took very little to accomplish this. I practiced this first with a chunk of the ramrod I had cut off.
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There are alot ways to reinforce a rammer so that it maintains strength in the field.
One way is to soak the rod in molten pine pitch / rosen with turpentine, these turns this enriches the wood with essentially a sap that hardens, Native Americans used to do something like this with their arrows.
You can also make special rod for the field.
Reinforcing a rod is key. Theres many ways to do it.
You can hollow out 10” sections of dowel rod on a drill press or lathe and use the wooden sections as a cover for a 3/32 brass or steel rod, epoxying each section down and then cross pin a 1/16 pin through the steel or brass rod, i know some fellas use a music wire or spring steel ribbon.
However with all of this said, i have to be honest, I’ve made one reinforced rod, and it works rather well, but for all of my other guns, I’ve never had any issues in the field with them breaking ever or losing the tips.
Personally i think the idea of losing a rammer in the field is overkill, if you’re losing shots that you need to pull with a screw tip, then there’s something else wrong with the gun you’re not identifying, it could be the bore is too oxidized or the patch is too thick or your charge was not correct.
if your wooden rammers are breaking its not because they’re either made from bad wood, or the user is being careless with them.
For smaller caliber guns, 32-45 you rammers will be pretty delicate, the way I’ve dealt with this issue is to make a very long sleeved rammer tip, 2-3” long for the shaft to go onto the rod.
I think if you imagine how they dealt with these issues in the field in the 18th century, you’d come to one logical conclusion, most of the time they were ahead of the actual issue or they simply…. Went home to fix the problem, maybe made a temporary rod in the field too.
One way is to soak the rod in molten pine pitch / rosen with turpentine, these turns this enriches the wood with essentially a sap that hardens, Native Americans used to do something like this with their arrows.
You can also make special rod for the field.
Reinforcing a rod is key. Theres many ways to do it.
You can hollow out 10” sections of dowel rod on a drill press or lathe and use the wooden sections as a cover for a 3/32 brass or steel rod, epoxying each section down and then cross pin a 1/16 pin through the steel or brass rod, i know some fellas use a music wire or spring steel ribbon.
However with all of this said, i have to be honest, I’ve made one reinforced rod, and it works rather well, but for all of my other guns, I’ve never had any issues in the field with them breaking ever or losing the tips.
Personally i think the idea of losing a rammer in the field is overkill, if you’re losing shots that you need to pull with a screw tip, then there’s something else wrong with the gun you’re not identifying, it could be the bore is too oxidized or the patch is too thick or your charge was not correct.
if your wooden rammers are breaking its not because they’re either made from bad wood, or the user is being careless with them.
For smaller caliber guns, 32-45 you rammers will be pretty delicate, the way I’ve dealt with this issue is to make a very long sleeved rammer tip, 2-3” long for the shaft to go onto the rod.
I think if you imagine how they dealt with these issues in the field in the 18th century, you’d come to one logical conclusion, most of the time they were ahead of the actual issue or they simply…. Went home to fix the problem, maybe made a temporary rod in the field too.
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I have a range rod that is 35+ years old that I made. It has seen use those entire 35 years and has never had to have the tip reset.
No glue used, just an extremely tight fit and 2 cross pins at 90 degrees to each other about 3/4” apart.
I turned my own tip from brass with 10/32 t.p.i and the socket is about 2” long.
I rough threaded the ID of the socket while it was on the lathe, I don’t recall the pitch but it was pretty fine. I figured it would give me more contact and make it that much harder to pull loose.
When I drilled the holes for the pins I countersunk them slightly, when I set the pins (plain brads) I peened them into the countersink and filed flush.
When it was finished I boned it to glass smooth and tossed it in a 3/4” copper pipe filled with a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine.
I oil it down once or twice a year.
No glue used, just an extremely tight fit and 2 cross pins at 90 degrees to each other about 3/4” apart.
I turned my own tip from brass with 10/32 t.p.i and the socket is about 2” long.
I rough threaded the ID of the socket while it was on the lathe, I don’t recall the pitch but it was pretty fine. I figured it would give me more contact and make it that much harder to pull loose.
When I drilled the holes for the pins I countersunk them slightly, when I set the pins (plain brads) I peened them into the countersink and filed flush.
When it was finished I boned it to glass smooth and tossed it in a 3/4” copper pipe filled with a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine.
I oil it down once or twice a year.
I have two feet of 1/16” brass rod left over from pinning my rod ends.
Anyone who wants a couple inches free, send me a PM. I’ll send a piece via USPS to you.
Anyone who wants a couple inches free, send me a PM. I’ll send a piece via USPS to you.
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Before installation of the brass tip(s) if you are going to use a "glue", make sure you "scuff up" the inside. The scuffing will give the adhesive better surface to adhere to.
Good point. Yes indeed, did that. Scored it up well.
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I’ve never had any issues in the field with them breaking ever or losing the tips.
Exactly......
Installed tip with a compression fit and JB Weld. Just finished staining it. Waiting until I locate and purchase a small diameter brass pin before I use the ramrod. On the hunt for a small diameter pin.
Do you think 1/16” pin would work for a the small I.D. Of tip for a .32 caliber, 5/16” ramrod? Not a whole lot of wood inside.
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I do all 3.
Wouldn't know. Nebber done that.
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Yes, does not take much.
That’s pretty small. But you would still have a1/8” on either side of the pin.
Measured the I.D. Of the tip. It leaves me with 1/4” of wood to drill through and pin.
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