Investarms Gemmer Hawken build

[TDM]

Well, not too dark. And not too light. I think it's just right!

 

[Snake Pleskin]

Well, not too dark. And not too light. I think it's just right!

Thanks. I used a min wax stain called Gunstock. The BLO,turp,beeswax combo did not really darken it at all. I finished it with (3) coats of min wax wipe on poly. Worked well. I get an nice shine but not too glossy! I am going to dry fit everything again and see how it looks!

 

[Snake Pleskin]

I finished up the stock today. While it is not dark or striped like some seem to like, the color is a slight reddish brown called (gunstock by Minwax) and shows the grain well and I believe the finish came out very nice! I used BLO , Beeswax and Turp for 5-6 coats, then finished with three-4 coats of Min wax Wipe on Poly, then a coat of Min wax Finishing Wax!

 

[TDM]

Color and finish turned out great!

 

[Snake Pleskin]

Color and finish turned out great!

Thanks, I appreciate the feed back. When you did your metal, did you brown it then use steel wool etc to take it down to a more "bright" finish? I was thinking of trying to make mine a semi bright finish just to be different. How does it hold up protecting the barrel etc from rusting versus a full complete browning??? I was thinking of using Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solution?

 

[TDM]

Yes, I used the Laurel Mountain browning. Even though they say the metal doesn’t need to be degreased I did it anyway since it can’t hurt. Other than that I applied as recommended. It was very hot and humid when I did this in my outside shop and the results on the barrel were great. I only had to make two applications, the weather conditions were perfect for getting a deep, even brown. After I neutralized the solution I used 0000 wool to blend, doesn’t take much pressure. On the lock and other hardware I scrubbed harder with the wool to get where I wanted it.

Thanks, I appreciate the feed back. When you did your metal, did you brown it then use steel wool etc to take it down to a more "bright" finish? I was thinking of trying to make mine a semi bright finish just to be different. How does it hold up protecting the barrel etc from rusting versus a full complete browning??? I was thinking of using Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solution?

 

[Snake Pleskin]

Yes, I used the Laurel Mountain browning. Even though they say the metal doesn’t need to be degreased I did it anyway since it can’t hurt. Other than that I applied as recommended. It was very hot and humid when I did this in my outside shop and the results on the barrel were great. I only had to make two applications, the weather conditions were perfect for getting a deep, even brown. After I neutralized the solution I used 0000 wool to blend, doesn’t take much pressure. On the lock and other hardware I scrubbed harder with the wool to get where I wanted it.

I want to take the bluing off of the Std GPR lock? Any suggestions on how to do that? I think I can take it apart with out destroying it, i hope, but I would like to get it to a bright condition so I can brown it etc like the rest of the metal?

 

[TDM]

I want to take the bluing off of the Std GPR lock? Any suggestions on how to do that? I think I can take it apart with out destroying it, i hope, but I would like to get it to a bright condition so I can brown it etc like the rest of the metal?

I use Naval Jelly, it will remove blueing and color case hardened within seconds of brushing it on. You rinse it off throughly with cold water and need to wear gloves. Vinegar will work too, but it takes a few hours. I’ve never used vinegar personally.

 

[Snake Pleskin]

Ok, worked on polishing the lock and cleaning it up. Still a bit rough in the internals. I think firing will help it a lot, even dry firing with a wood flint etc. As always , open for comments and suggestions. thanks!

 

[TDM]

I think the polishing looks good, not overdone. It should acquire a nice patina fairly quickly on its on. If your happy with the smoothness of the lock then let it be. However, by disassembling and polishing the tumbler faces and sear it will only get better.

 

[TDM]

Some good English flints will help the spark too if you haven’t already gotten some. TotW is pretty well stocked with them now.

 

[Snake Pleskin]

So, I got it together finally? Still have a few items I want to tune up. I need to work on the triggers? I have to set the trigger twice for it to fire? Do not have a clue why? The butt plate is a tiny bit 'warped" or has a very slight twist in the tail. I want to take it off and 'bend" it very slightly so it will fit a bit better. I also will redo the ram rod to get the color a bit darker. The stain I used did not darken as much on it I guess because the wood is different than the stock. barrel came out nice without the "verbiage and safety warnings" all over it! I left the ser # (faintly) caliber and Gemmer & Clemens-OR, on the barrel, kind of like the ole J S Hawken motif. Everything else is gone except proof marks on the bottom. The ****/flint are lined up perfectly, and the touch hole is positioned exactly where it needs to be. As always, comments etc are welcome, especially and info on the trigger?

 

[TDM]

Snake, it looks great! And that new English Flint makes it complete!

Not sure what your asking about on the triggers. Double set triggers can be operated either by pulling back the rear trigger to “set” the front (primary) trigger for a lighter break or you can just pull the front trigger to fire, it will just have a harder pull.
There are 3 different adjustment screws on the Investarms assembly. A main hold down screw for the set trigger spring, a small hex screw that adjust spring pressure from the bottom, and the small screw that is in between the two triggers. This screw will adjust how light or heavy the primary trigger pull is with the rear trigger set. Unless your happy with the way it all feels now your going to have to make adjustments. If the rear trigger is stiff and hard to move, you need to loosen those rear screw. If the set trigger feels sloppy, tighten those screw. But a little bit goes a long way, you’ll just have to experiment. Same with the primary trigger screw. Screw it in to lighten the break, screw it out to increase the pull.

 

[TDM]

Also, don’t adjust the primary trigger for too light a pull. While holding the trigger assembly, turn the screw in and out and watch how the trigger arm moves along the catch of the set trigger. Leave enough metal contact so you won’t have it go off before your ready!

 

[Snake Pleskin]

Also, don’t adjust the primary trigger for too light a pull. While holding the trigger assembly, turn the screw in and out and watch how the trigger arm moves along the catch of the set trigger. Leave enough metal contact so you won’t have it go off before your ready!

My triggers will not fire if they are not set? I would like them to fire either way, but do not know how to adjust them to make that happen. I understand the screw between the two triggers, and the mainspring screw , the large one that hds the entire main spring down I can adjust a bit, but the hex screw that is supposed to touch the main spring ? Mine looks very short and barely touches the spring at all? What is happening is #1, I **** the hammer to half ****, #2 pull the rear trigger to set it, #3 pull the hammer to full ****, and #4 when i pull the front trigger it just clicks,. So, if I set the rear trigger again, and then pull the front trigger again, and it fires? I don't understand why I have to set it twice? I have tried setting the rear trigger before I **** the hammer, after I **** the hammer to half **** and when I have cocked the hammer to full ****. Same thing happens each time? Also, as i mentioned, the trigger will not fire at all if the rear trigger is not set. I can not just use the front trigger?

 

[TDM]

My triggers will not fire if they are not set? I would like them to fire either way, but do not know how to adjust them to make that happen. I understand the screw between the two triggers, and the mainspring screw , the large one that hds the entire main spring down I can adjust a bit, but the hex screw that is supposed to touch the main spring ? Mine looks very short and barely touches the spring at all? What is happening is #1, I **** the hammer to half ****, #2 pull the rear trigger to set it, #3 pull the hammer to full ****, and #4 when i pull the front trigger it just clicks,. So, if I set the rear trigger again, and then pull the front trigger again, and it fires? I don't understand why I have to set it twice? I have tried setting the rear trigger before I **** the hammer, after I **** the hammer to half **** and when I have cocked the hammer to full ****. Same thing happens each time? Also, as i mentioned, the trigger will not fire at all if the rear trigger is not set. I can not just use the front trigger?

First off, I don’t pull the set trigger until I’m at full ****, but you said you tried that too. Also, if everything is adjusted properly you should be able to set the rear trigger and pull the front trigger with the **** down. (Good for dry fire practice) but I see these are not your problem. Take the trigger assembly out and see if it works as it should. Set the rear trigger and pull the front, then try just pulling the front trigger. Back to your question on the small screw, this is a fine adjustment screw for the main spring. You want the larger rear screw snug, but not tight, just enough to keep the main spring from being loose. Start screwing the small screw in until it starts to make contact. Keep setting the rear trigger with each small adjustment until it feels right to you. Work on that until your happy with the set trigger then we’ll move on.

 

[TDM]

You didn’t mention whether you had disassembled the trigger assembly yet. If you haven’t already done so, you’ll get a much smoother operation by doing some light polishing on the areas of metal to metal contact. Especially were the rear arm activated the lock sear. And this is strictly polishing, removing any burrs you see or feel, but not removing metal. I use various fine grits of gunsmithing stones. If you don’t have any just wrap some 400-600 grit sand paper around a small flat file and use that. Before you start to disassemble, take photos of the assembly and take note of where the little piano wire spring makes contact with the front trigger, don’t try and remove the piano wire spring, just leave it attached.

 

[TDM]

I’ve got time to type, so I’ll go ahead with the trouble shooting. If you have your trigger assembly tuned and operating the way you want, put it back in the stock with the lock removed. Now check to see if each trigger works as it should. If it does, great, if it doesn’t then something in the fit to the stock is too tight or something is rubbing or touching the stock. If the triggers operate correctly remove the trigger assembly and reinstall the lock. With flint installed or a wooden practice flint, go to half ****, then full ****. At each step look inside the inlet to insure the lock sear is not touching any part of the wood. Now take a screwdriver or stick and push up on the sear to fire. If there’s any resistance or delay try and determine where the problem is, maybe the lock bolt is too tight. By going through each one step at a time you should find your problem.

 

[Izzy]

Very good job. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Snake Pleskin]

TDM!! Followed your advice. All is good. triggers are working fine now!!! Thanks for you time & patience!