Investarms Gemmer Hawken Kit

[BuschFlint99]

Hi everyone! I just purchased an Investarms Gemmer Hawken build kit and I have a few questions I’d like to run by everyone.

1: I am aware that Investarms produced the Lyman GPR prior to the new Pedersoli variant. My local black powder shop owner said that they’re now different rifles (spec wise) and not compatible with one another. This Investarms kit that I purchased seems to be “Lyman” GPR with the name Investarms rather than Lyman. Am I correct in saying this? It says “Plains Rifle” right on the barrel! 1:60 twist and all.

2: I currently own a L&R RPL Lock (LOCK-LR-05-F) for an “Investarms-Lyman-Cabelas. I’m thinking/hoping I can get this to fit on the kit I’m assembling. If so, what’s all involved with tuning these locks for optimal performance?

3: I know some folks may disagree with this (and that’s fine) but I plan on applying black cerakote to every metal part on this kit…L&R lock included. I will NOT however be cerakoting the inner workings of the lock or any other moving parts as this is strictly for visual appearance and protection purposes. Does anyone have any experience with cerakote on flintlocks? Anything you would have done differently?

4: The stock is a European Walnut stock. After researching quite a bit, I believe I’ll be using boiled linseed oil as the finish on this stock. It’s to my understanding that it is to be applied with your finger in very small amounts and rubbed into the stock thoroughly. I’m told it takes 7-10 DAYS to dry before applying the next coat. Is boiled linseed oil my best option for long term durability or should I look elsewhere?

5: I’m not new to shooting flintlocks or flintlock hunting but this is my first ever kit that I’ll be assembling. Is there any assembly tips, tricks, pointers that would be worth knowing about?

Attached are some photos of my L&R RPL lock for reference purposes.

Thanks in advance for ANY information that you’re willing to share to help me with this project!!

 

[Daveboone]

Why replace the lock immediately? The supplied locks are perfectly good, the upgraded lock is usually used to replace worn out/trouble some locks. I bought one of the replacement locks for my percussion...and was not pleased. It was going to need extensive inletting reworking, and even then the hammer fall would not be true to the nipple. I sent it back and repaired my now perfectly working (and tuned) original lock. IF you use the new lock, and modify the inletting for it, beware that it will not be compatible with using the original lock.
The old handed down routine for linseed oil application (as I remember it) was apply daily for a week, weekly for a month, monthly for a year, then yearly.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

Investarm made the GPR for Lyman & also markets guns under it's own name. Boiled linseed oil(BLO) alone is a very poor choice for a stock finish. There are many boiled linseed oil based stock finishes available that contain dryers & hardeners, such as Lin-Speed, Tru-Oil, Arrow Oil & a host of others that are much easier to use & provide a more weather resistant finish. If you want a stock that stays "sticky" in hot weather, never seems to dry, & doesn't keep water out, then go with the straight BLO.

 

[BuschFlint99]

Why replace the lock immediately? The supplied locks are perfectly good, the upgraded lock is usually used to replace worn out/trouble some locks. I bought one of the replacement locks for my percussion...and was not pleased. It was going to need extensive inletting reworking, and even then the hammer fall would not be true to the nipple. I sent it back and repaired my now perfectly working (and tuned) original lock. IF you use the new lock, and modify the inletting for it, beware that it will not be compatible with using the original lock.
The old handed down routine for linseed oil application (as I remember it) was apply daily for a week, weekly for a month, monthly for a year, then yearly.

I planned on doing the lock now for a few reasons.
A. I’m not a huge fan of the engraving on it
B. I’m also not a fan of the coil spring style locks. My other older investarms Hawken gave me a lot of issues with the lock.
C. It’s simply a much better lock, why not do it now while I'm putting it together rather than when it’s finish?

I cant say I ever heard of the that method for oiling the stock? That’s certainly pretty interesting and sounds like it would work well!

Thanks for all the information!! Much appreciated!

 

[BuschFlint99]

Investarm made the GPR for Lyman & also markets guns under it's own name. Boiled linseed oil(BLO) alone is a very poor choice for a stock finish. There are many boiled linseed oil based stock finishes available that contain dryers & hardeners, such as Lin-Speed, Tru-Oil, Arrow Oil & a host of others that are much easier to use & provide a more weather resistant finish. If you want a stock that stays "sticky" in hot weather, never seems to dry, & doesn't keep water out, then go with the straight BLO.

Excellent! I’m probably going to go with the Tru-Oil route now looking into it a bit more. Thank you for the information! Much appreciated!!

 

[30coupe]

I'd second the TruOil finish. It is much more durable and can be touched up easily. It also will not darken over time like BLO can.

 

[granth]

Excellent! I’m probably going to go with the Tru-Oil route now looking into it a bit more. Thank you for the information! Much appreciated!!

I used Tru-oil on my recent build. Tru-oil is very good, it's pretty easy to use and it looks great. It gives a good feel to the gun and it doesn't take forever to dry. I also would recommend a nice wax to put on it just to make everything look really nice. Here is my results of Tru-oil plus wax.

 

[David Austin]

I used aqua fortis for the stain of my Great Plains flinter and heated the stock over a charcoal fire. When the stock was just barely touchable I slathered on the boiled linseed oil and rubbed it in...kept heating the stock when it was cool...took a day to put on 28 coats...used votive candles for the beeswax. Came out HARD and great grain.. I had a tryon percussion rifle I bought...sanded the finish off. the wood under the photo-finish was spectacular. Sold the rifle for three times what I paid for it. Heated linseed oil and beeswax. No photos...sorry.