Is the neck of my Hammer really Broken?

[Rein]

Hello everybody from Barcelona-Catalonia.

Unfortenatelly maybe I began this conversation in the wrong place, sorry everybody for the inconveniences, so now I want to explain my case to all of you in the correct zone. Thanks.
Recently I bought a Husqvarna swedish rifle from 1850. As you will see in pictures is lovely but have just one little problem in the percutor hammer, have a litle broken piece at the end, sims like V. Unfortenatelly I can't find anyone in my country who dares to weld a small piece of metal to make it look like new without the added metal being noticeable. So I was starting to think about loctite metal epoxy for replace the missing part.

The broken part is in the end of the hammer, just in the final neck, just in the place when you firing the hammer picks to the piston.
First I'm triying to find the same hammer for replace it, nothing for the moment. It's not usual like the english tower or the americans from the civil war. Anyway I don't want a shot with this rifle is just for exposition.

By the way as Fleener says -Some hammers have a V notch in the hammer cup up front. Perhaps it is not broken and missing-

And bpd303 says -Someone with a TIG welder should be able to weld it without any excess metal added. I was able to do a good weld on the tang of an original German Jaeger that is still in service. When I enlarge the last picture of the hammer, it does look like a V notch in the front of the cup-.

Now I must assume that the broken part in the neck of the hammer was probably made by the soldier or the shooter of this rifle, never by the manufacturer, because is not a "clean" broken part, just sims like "broken" and missing part, I want to say that, If it were filed in a square shape with right angles, it would look factory-made, and in fact I have not yet ruled out doing so to improve its appearance and not look broken like now..

Any help, opinion or support in this subject will be great.
Thank you very much in any case.

Greetings and best wishes from Barcelona.

 

[Rein]

In detail

 

[Rein]

At the moment I can't show you more pics in detail of the hammer because this piece is until coming to me.

 

[2 shots]

maybe to deflect cap fragments and gas away from the face of shooter. a pic.of the front of hammer would help.

 

[ADK Bigfoot]

Pressure flows to the point of least resistance. Any cap flash or blowback will be directed away from the shooter's face. Many rifles and pistols have something similar.

ADK Bigfoot

 

[Rein]

Pressure flows to the point of least resistance. Any cap flash or blowback will be directed away from the shooter's face. Many rifles and pistols have something similar.

ADK Bigfoot

Do you think any picture of this? Thanks.

 

[ADK Bigfoot]

Here are two pictures from the first one I picked up. Pedersoli pistol, caplock for #11 cap percussion, smaller notch than yours, but the same idea.

ADK Bigfoot

 

[Rein]

Here are two pictures from the first one I picked up. Pedersoli pistol, caplock for #11 cap percussion, smaller notch than yours, but the same idea.

ADK Bigfoot

Thanks bigfoot I understand, but I think is not the same. Your V is lovely, clean, is clear is made by the manufacturer,
mine is something rough, probably make by the own soldier-shooter..

 

[smo]

It could have been filed into the hammer cups face to assist in cap removal….
If not factory.👍

I have a TC Renegade that has a notch in the front of the hammer cap .👍

 

[ZUG]

Your rifles hammer does look to have a broken nose on its front portion. I would try firing some caps with it as is and see how it performs. It might work OK. If you don't like the way it looks then you could try to make a piece that will fit the hammer's nose and braze or high temp silver braze the replacement part to the hammers nose and file it to conform to the hammers shape. Soft soldering using lead solder will not hold up and will only fall off when the rifle is fired. This is not a difficult job but care must be taken to get the replacement part to fit into the missing portion of the hammer nose because either brazing or high temp silver braze will not fill large gaps or poorly fitted parts. Good luck with this project.

 

[Rein]

Your rifles hammer does look to have a broken nose on its front portion. I would try firing some caps with it as is and see how it performs. It might work OK. If you don't like the way it looks then you could try to make a piece that will fit the hammer's nose and braze or high temp silver braze the replacement part to the hammers nose and file it to conform to the hammers shape. Soft soldering using lead solder will not hold up and will only fall off when the rifle is fired. This is not a difficult job but care must be taken to get the replacement part to fit into the missing portion of the hammer nose because either brazing or high temp silver braze will not fill large gaps or poorly fitted parts. Good luck with this project.

Thank you very much Zug.
Unfortenatelly I have already ruled out adding and welding a piece of metal to improve the appearance because I can't find anyone in my country who dares to do it. For other hand I have no intention to shoot a rifle from 1850! is a piece of museum.
I agree with you, can be works fine but is a unnecessary risk. So is a rifle jus for exposition, then I'm just talking about the presence of the rifle.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Thank you very much Zug.
Unfortenatelly I have already ruled out adding and welding a piece of metal to improve the appearance because I can't find anyone in my country who dares to do it. For other hand I have no intention to shoot a rifle from 1850! is a piece of museum.
I agree with you, can be works fine but is an unnecessary risk. So is a rifle jus for exposition, then I'm just talking about the presence of the rifle.

You are right, it won’t need anything done to display it. As a matter of fact the notch is now part of its history if it wasn’t there when built it was when it came to you.

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

If you do decide to repair it in the future, take it to someone who repairs jewelry. They are quite accustomed to silver-soldering little bits together.