Ok Rudy Im gonna send you a PM with my email in it and we can go from there. It would be easier there than in the forum I believe.
It's here....
- Thread starter Omahkapi'si
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Thanks for all the replies guys. I will be out to the range next weekend again and get a routine together that not only keeps the barrel in good shape but lets me shoot more than 1 lead ball. 
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As long as my rod has a handle on it, I just put it in the "Y" of a tree and pull.
That's why I don't teach her to use this stuff.........I guess that wouldn't stop her from clubbing me to death in my sleep with it though......
I use a wet patch then a dry patch between shots. I also use pre-lubed patches for the ball.
Barring all that, if your shooting a .54, try using a .50cal. jag. Works just fine.
So at least I don't feel quite as dumb...seems that a few rods have been stuck throughout muzzle loading history....
Walkingeagle
54 Cal.
Oh ya, its quite common. At least until you learn what works for you.
Walk
Yup, probably a time or two......maybe three, lol
I have a set of mole grips in my shooting bag, when (not if!) I get a stuck rod I clamp the mole grips onto the rod and tap (smack as hard as required) with my soft mallet to remove.
I think that it is possibly to do with the way the cloth fibres in the patch lie, when you push the patch into the bore the fibres get pulled so they point out of the muzzle. When you try to pull the patch out the fibres have to change direction. If the Jag is too tight fitting then this is difficult. Just like if you use a bronze brush in an unmentionable and try to change direction half way.
One thing that worked for me was to put the Jag in a drill, spin and lightly file to reduce its diameter very slightly, this gives a little more gap and reduces the number of stuck rods I get.
I think that it is possibly to do with the way the cloth fibres in the patch lie, when you push the patch into the bore the fibres get pulled so they point out of the muzzle. When you try to pull the patch out the fibres have to change direction. If the Jag is too tight fitting then this is difficult. Just like if you use a bronze brush in an unmentionable and try to change direction half way.
One thing that worked for me was to put the Jag in a drill, spin and lightly file to reduce its diameter very slightly, this gives a little more gap and reduces the number of stuck rods I get.
Ok, maybe a real dumb question but here goes.
I see on here and other places various ways of cleaning and looking after barrels. Seasoned bores, etc.
Here we go: After the rifle is clean, what is the purpose of bore butter for example, if the next time you shoot you run patches down the barrel to clean out the bore butter? So, when shooting, the barrel is not lubed and just the lubed patch serves as the barrel lube? Or is the barrel lightly oiled or anything? Or does the bore butter residue stay in there and lube as well? Thanks!
I see on here and other places various ways of cleaning and looking after barrels. Seasoned bores, etc.
Here we go: After the rifle is clean, what is the purpose of bore butter for example, if the next time you shoot you run patches down the barrel to clean out the bore butter? So, when shooting, the barrel is not lubed and just the lubed patch serves as the barrel lube? Or is the barrel lightly oiled or anything? Or does the bore butter residue stay in there and lube as well? Thanks!
HiDesertHunter
40 Cal
I don't use bore butter - never felt the need.
When done cleaning I lightly mop the barrel with plain 'ol gun oil (or Rem Oil) and all I do is pop a cap or two before I start shooting and never any problems.
Also If I am not shooting muzzleloaders for a while I'll occasionally screw a mop on a rod and spray it with Rem Oil and just give my barrels a cursory oil swab.
When done cleaning I lightly mop the barrel with plain 'ol gun oil (or Rem Oil) and all I do is pop a cap or two before I start shooting and never any problems.
Also If I am not shooting muzzleloaders for a while I'll occasionally screw a mop on a rod and spray it with Rem Oil and just give my barrels a cursory oil swab.
Very interesting. Thanks. If I could get away from all the buttery stuff and use what I know that would be a plus. So the pre-lubed patch (which I assume is bore butter stuff) is ok going down an oiled barrel?
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I went along with the 'season' the barrel theory for awhile and ended up with rust. I'll use bore butter for maxiball lube but that's it. After cleaning I use the same gun oil as I use on all my firearms. G-96 is my favorite. It's a rifle. Not a frying pan.
HiDesertHunter
40 Cal
Yea , most pre made patches have so little lube on them its not an issue.
Actually with patches the 'less is more' theory is much better. Patches don't need a lot of lube to be effective. I have been guilty of using too much lube on patches creating more of a mess than I need to.
I used to use rendered chicken fat for patch lube - the stuff is slicker 'en snot - in summer - but in cold weather it stays kind of hard and makes loading a bit more difficult so I am stopping using it and going to start using something different that stays the same consistency in all weather conditions.
This is good stuff. I need to start treating this as a rifle and not like it's made of glass. Thanks.
Walkingeagle
54 Cal.
My advice, for what its worth...
Forget the seasoning of the bore concept, it’s a myth! After cleaning thoroughly, and drying the bore, use G96 in it. Then a clean patch to remove excess. Then wipe the whole gun with G96 and also wipe it dry to remove excess. Then make sure you store muzzle down. Use alcohol swab just prior to shooting the next time. This is the simplest and eventually you may change or try other things as you grow in the sport. Also, moose milk makes the best wet patch for lots of shooting in one session as there is no need for wiping between shots. Only if using actual black powder though (holy black).
Walk
Forget the seasoning of the bore concept, it’s a myth! After cleaning thoroughly, and drying the bore, use G96 in it. Then a clean patch to remove excess. Then wipe the whole gun with G96 and also wipe it dry to remove excess. Then make sure you store muzzle down. Use alcohol swab just prior to shooting the next time. This is the simplest and eventually you may change or try other things as you grow in the sport. Also, moose milk makes the best wet patch for lots of shooting in one session as there is no need for wiping between shots. Only if using actual black powder though (holy black).
Walk
No such thing as "seasoned bores".
Thanks all.
"Seasoning" of a bore is simply a failure to clean all the fouling during cleaning and is a build up of fouling and promotes rust. Eventually the crusty fouling fills the grooves and destroys accuracy.
The best wet patch is one that is barely damp. Dripping wet patches can contaminate the powder and accuracy suffers. Some people make the claim that they use wet patches to lube the ball and they don't need to wipe between shots. That might work at the range when you get to short shortly after the patched ball is loaded. For best accuracy wipe the bore with a damp patch to remove fouling. Following the damp patch with a dry patch keeps the barrel functioning with a consistent condition for the patched ball (for that matter a conical) to perform to best accuracy.
wiksmo
40 Cal
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Hey, RR. Like today, there were options for those folk back when your rifle was first built. Yeah, they cared for their firearms not like it was glass, but their important survival tool. Options were found in a dry goods, maybe stored in a fort's supplies, or often in the wilds. This article was interesting to me when I first looked for lubes, clean methods, patches, how to keep my pistol running well, etc. You'll get it all together real soon...have fun. ~wiksmo
https://www.historynet.com/old-west-gun-owners-knew-keep-bores-clean-powder-dry.htm
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