I've screwed up....

[Xenophon]

Through sheer talent and natural brilliance I managed to break off a cleaning jag, with cleaning patch, in the barrel of a Traditions Woodsman 50 cal. It snapped off at the threaded stem while attached to a range rod. I wasn't even surprised; I just jotted this down on the long list of things I've "accomplished" over my life.

I don't have a ball puller (been meaning to order one) but don't know that I could hit the stem of the thing anyway. I removed the barrel from the stock, thinking I'd remove the breech plug and get at it with a ramrod. In reading the Traditions manual though, I ran across this gem: "Important. Never remove the bolster/drum or breech plug from the barrel. They have been installed at the factory such that they interlock with each other for maximum lockup strength. The removal or alteration of these key parts will compromise the performance of your gun, void your warranty, and can create an unsafe condition".

Here's my question: Warranty issues aside, are the manufacturing and assembly parameters so stringent at Traditions such that I'm going to "compromise the performance" if I just unscrew the dang breech plug and then screw it back in? I assume the thing unscrews. I'm being a smart-aleck but I truly am at a loss. With deer season a week away I've converted my rifle into a club.

 

[Grimord]

The best way to remove the stuck jag & patch is to dribble a few grains of black powder into the drum after removing the nipple. Replace the nipple, cap and fire the jag out at a safe back stop. In the future, only use jags with a steel screw (like those at TOW), the brass threaded screws are weak and prone to breakage.

 

[flconch53]

Same solution as a stuck ball. Pull the nipple out trickle some powder behind it and shoot it out. Now be prepared for abouta thousand suggestions

 

[Xenophon]

The best way to remove the stuck jag & patch is to dribble a few grains of black powder into the drum after removing the nipple. Replace the nipple, cap and fire the jag out at a safe back stop. In the future, only use jags with a steel screw (like those at TOW), the brass threaded screws are weak and prone to breakage.

That's a bold move (to a newbie). I'll do it tomorrow. I guess I'll preserve my warranty after all. And you are correct, it was a brass screw, not steel. I honestly didn't know to make the distinction. I do now.

 

[Ponderosaman]

Alternatively you can screw in zerk fitting and pump it out with a grease gun. I haven’t had the pleasure of getting anything stuck yet besides some patches, but I saw someone on Youtube do the grease gun thing as a demonstration.

 

[wiscoaster]

I'd first try to shoot it out as @Grimord suggested. Removing the breech plug may or may not be a daunting task, depending on your particular barrel. It's easier with an octagonal barrel because you can get a tighter fit in a padded vise. If it doesn't shoot out, my second choice would be the grease gun as @Ponderosaman suggested. I've done that successfully with a stuck dry ball, and it's not hard, and it works, but it's awfully dang messy. Traditions is made in Spain, no? So you probably need a metric fitting.

 

[vibraphonusrex]

Ugh, I did that, but luckily it was right at the muzzle and it popped out as I withdrew the rod! Luckily it was at a match, and someone had one I could borrow! I promised him I wouldn’t do that to his!

 

[BackDraft]

Alternatively you can screw in zerk fitting and pump it out with a grease gun. I haven’t had the pleasure of getting anything stuck yet besides some patches, but I saw someone on Youtube do the grease gun thing as a demonstration.

Pondi, are you lost?!? The political forums are a couple dozen threads higher up from here… JK

 

[oldwood]

I have to say this.....Many broken ramrod problems , especiallynear the ramming end of the rod , are caused by shooters not using a short starter. I've made many replacment rods for guys that had to learn the hard way.

 

[Jasonb1911]

Here's my question: Warranty issues aside, are the manufacturing and assembly parameters so stringent at Traditions such that I'm going to "compromise the performance" if I just unscrew the dang breech plug and then screw it back in? I assume the thing unscrews. I'm being a smart-aleck but I truly am at a loss. With deer season a week away I've converted my rifle into a club.

The bolster and breech plug are assembled in such a way that you have to remove the bolster from the barrel before you can unscrew the breech plug. It sounds simple, but if you do remove everything successfully you're likely to have a terrible time trying to get everything realigned to put everything back together correctly. The old CVA'S use the same breech system.

This picture will make it easier to see why trying to remove the breech plug on your rifle is a bad idea.

 

[russellshaffer]

The Traiditions breech plug doesn't just unscrew. There are interlocking pieces there.

 

[dave951]

As stated, dribble a few gr of powder, pop a cap, check, repeat as needed till clear. Then don't do that again.

 

[hinamanra]

I've always been able to clear a barrel with compressed air with either a Co2 discharger or from an air compressor. I've cleared a dry ball twice and a stuck ramrod on the range by trickling powder into the chamber and shooting it out. I never had to use a greasegun yet and thank the Lord I haven't had to remove a breech plug yet. I have the correct grease fittings and tools onhand just in case though.

 

[Xenophon]

I've always been able to clear a barrel with compressed air with either a Co2 discharger or from an air compressor. I've cleared a dry ball twice and a stuck ramrod on the range by trickling powder into the chamber and shooting it out. I never had to use a greasegun yet and thank the Lord I haven't had to remove a breech plug yet. I have the correct grease fittings and tools onhand just in case though.

So in dribbling powder into the chamber, approximately how much powder? Approximately?

 

[The Crisco Kid]

All you can get in won't be too much since you can't get more than a few grains in through the nipple area.

 

[deerstalkert]

powder the drum and shoot it.

 

[morehops52]

When you dribble a few grains in, rap the side of the lock to see if the powder will settle down in the channel a bit. Then add some more. If you have one you can use a flint pan primer with 4f. Of course I only know this from watching other folks

 

[Jasonb1911]

So in dribbling powder into the chamber, approximately how much powder? Approximately?

Approximately 5 to 10 grains should be good. You might have to do it a few times. I use a bent paper clip to help push the powder towards the bore. It's slow and tedious but it works.

 

[Colonial Boy]

If the worst comes to the worst and you have to unplug make sure that that there are alignment marks on the joint, better still make new ones and align using a magnifing glass, ‘cause even a couple of thousands of an inch can make a difference screwing the drum back.

 

[LME]

Alternatively you can screw in zerk fitting and pump it out with a grease gun. I haven’t had the pleasure of getting anything stuck yet besides some patches, but I saw someone on Youtube do the grease gun thing as a demonstration.

Why waste the grease an mess up your hands and gun? Shoot it out.