WANTED Jacobite coat and weskit

[Ranger Boyd]

Ok, thanks. I don't think that is going to work for me, but I appreciate the offer.

 

[Tacksman45]

Hi There!

I am a Jacobite living historian, and it is great to see that you are interested in doing a Jacobite impersonation! Barkertown Sutlers makes a Highland Jacket, Highland waistcoat, and tartan wool fabric "cut hose" which are essential to look like an authentic 18th century Scottish Highlander! About the coat you were thinking about. It is important to remember that the Scottish clans were very socially stratified, and while it is not impossible that a middleclass, or underclassman might have had a tartan coat, a tartan coat, especial one cut on the bias would be something that an upperclassman would more likely have worn considering that it would take a considerable amount of tartan material which would have been very expensive. With that being said, if you want a plaid jacket or waistcoat go for it! My only advice would be find a plaid material which is not a clan tartan. only few commonly produced tartan pattern today actually existed before the 1745 uprising, and almost all of the "clan tartans" date to the Victorian era. The idea that each clan had its own tartan during the "Jacobite era" is completely untrue. Here is a interesting article on this subject.

https://albanach.org/pre-culloden-tartans-940d4c245bd7

Also I should mention that the "Culloden Tartan" was not originally the colors it is today, that was a result of the original piece of material changing color over time.

Here is another very interesting article about the clothing the Gunnister Man from the late 17th to early 18th century, who was discovered in a peat bog in the Shetland islands was wearing.

https://www.research.ed.ac.uk/portal/files/29524746/WILCOX_ScottishLate17cMaleClothingPT2.pdf

Here are some other links with great information:

http://www.1745rising.org/articleimpression.html
Great info on clothing and equipment for different social classes.

http://appins.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Mens-Clothing-Guidelines.pdf
Best guideline available for clothing for the 1745 uprising! Their women's clothing and weapons guideline is great also!

 

[Ranger Boyd]

Most obliged for the wealth of info! I have Jenn Scott's book "Better is the Plaid" on the way as well, which I am told is good. I will definitely check out Barkertown Sutlers, too!

 

[Tacksman45]

Most obliged for the wealth of info! I have Jenn Scott's book "Better is the Plaid" on the way as well, which I am told is good. I will definitely check out Barkertown Sutlers, too![/QUOTE

No problem! Let me know if you need any help getting in contact with them!

 

[horsecavalryman]

Looking for a Jacobite (1740's, plaid) wool short frock coat and weskit, size 42-44. Long shot, I know....

Where would the linen coat be?

I got mine from Cobb Creek Merchants, http://www.cobbcreek.com/clothing.htm

Lenin painted with wax/mineral spirits formula. looks like leather and weatherproof. Here's their catalog photos.

the tartan would have been a seperate garment except for "Gentlemen" Nobility. Your big item for Jacobite will be a proper bonnet.
Burns Battle Bonnets - Company | Facebook - 27 Photos

https://www.facebook.com/BurnsBattleBonnets/ Iian Burns.https://www.facebook.com/BurnsBattleBonnets/ he knits 'em himself.

 

[horsecavalryman]

my facebook friend and his son as Jacobites. with Burns bonnets.

 

[Ranger Boyd]

Looking good!

 

[kansas_volunteer]

The ban on highland dress post 1745 was not as strict as many would have. Tartan specifically wasn't banned. There are paintings made post ban of depicting tartan clothing. Others probably got away with things. There weren't kilt cops on every corner.

Before the Highland revival, and especially during the victorian are, tartan wasn't associated at all with any clan, and any regional pattern would just be what was considered fashionable in a particular place. Modern ideas of tartan, such as muted, weathered and so on aren't appropriate to the Jacobite era. Wear any tartan you like, as would have any other man would have done in '45.

Plain tartan like Rob Roy has been woven for centuries. It is extremely old. In America we know it as red buffalo check. The similar green Robin Hood is another of the same ancient design. These are safe for any era within the past three thousand years.

The Culloden battlefield tartan remnant has been reproduce in the true colors of the time based on the dyes used and how they fade overtime, sort of reverse engineering. The Culloden I have is so reproduced. It's a beautiful pattern.

I question some of the details in the pic of the two reenactors above. Based on what I see there is a bit of a mix in fashion.

 

[Tacksman45]

The ban on highland dress post 1745 was not as strict as many would have. Tartan specifically wasn't banned. There are paintings made post ban of depicting tartan clothing. Others probably got away with things. There weren't kilt cops on every corner.

This is correct. Women's tartan clothing was not banned, and Johnson and Boswell saw men wearing kilts when they toured the Western Isles of Scotland in 1775, (great primary source reading!) Also many of the lairds in Scotland, especially on the isles did not like the disarming act because it left their land defenseless to pirates and other criminals.

I also agree that the green Culloden tartan is a beautiful pattern!

 

[Straekat]

Speaking of women and tartans, a link worth checking out is:

https://www.marariley.net/celtic/scotland.htm

There is a brief discussion of fit, a link on making a bonnet, etc.

 

[Tacksman45]

Speaking of women and tartans, a link worth checking out is:

https://www.marariley.net/celtic/scotland.htm

There is a brief discussion of fit, a link on making a bonnet, etc.

I meant to include her website in my post. She is a real expert on this subject!

 

[Tacksman45]

I'll have a look...

I had wondered about Townsend, too. Seems like a Jacobite short coat in 1745 looks a lot like a sleeved weskit ca. 1770...unless I am missing something?

You are correct that Townsend's sleeved 1770's waistcoats looks a lot like Scottish shortcoat. In fact I considered getting one of these, and adding tartan cuffs and pocket flaps (they do not do custom materials like plaids.) I personally think it would make a respectable Scottish coat (their waistcoat material is definitely heavy enough to be a coat material, and their clothes are first rate!) The only thing about this is Scottish coats are often shorter in the back, and longer in the front. This is done so that the back of the coat does not get bunched up when you wear your kilt pinned over your shoulder, and while not being as long in the front as most men's coats of the age, still has room for pockets, and covers the gathering of the kilt at the waist. I will try to post some pictures of my coats to show what I am talking about. If you do get a sleeved waistcoat from Townsends, I would suggest that you get your actual weskit made first, and measure for the sleeved waistcoat with your shirt, kilt, and weskit on. Also some period illustrations show the waistcoat being longer than the coat. With all that being said I am by no means an expert on this subject, so take all this with a grain of salt.

 

[Ranger Boyd]

Helpful thoughts, thanks!

 

[PluggedNickel]

Shirt size?

 

[horsecavalryman]

Cobb Creek Traders also does Womens clothing and nice Wescoats and Shirts. I have two of her shirts in "Raw" silk which is like washed denim for fullness and softness. One white and one mustard color.

Photo at Ft. Uncomphadre, Delta CO by
Jeroen Nieuwhuis , white raw silk Cobb Creek Traders. Sombrero by Rj Preston, OK.

 

[Ranger Boyd]

Shirt size?

42 chest /16 neck or right on the line between Men's medium and large.