Jewelers Saw ?

[Eric Krewson]

I am ordering tools to start my first gun project. There are a number of different size jewelers saw blades available. Which is the most useful for cutting things like underlug slots and such.

 

I guess it could be done, but underlug slots are generaly done with a hacksaw, cold chisel, and three corner file. The Jewelers saw is for softer metals, i.e. copper, brass silver, for making inlays, escutions, thimbles. I would recommend an assortment pack if someone offers it www.leevalley.com has them. Get a couple of books before you start. The gunsmith of grenvill county and building the pennsylvania/kentucky rifle come to mind. :m2c:

 

[Eric Krewson]

Peter Alexander recommends a jewelers saw in his book "Gunsmith of Greenville County" for starting dove tail slots. As for books I currently have and have read the above as well as "Recreating the American Longrifle", "The Pennsylvania Kentucky Rifle, and "Indian Trade Guns". I also have the complete set of "Building the American Longrifle" videos by Peter Alexander and Hershel House's "Building the Kentucky Rifle" both tape one and two. My motto is "never start a project with out adequate reference material".

 

You're right on the documentation, and if Peter Alexander does it with a Jewlers saw so be it. Everyone has their own way of doing some things. I've always used the hack say with a double blade to remove more metal with each stroke. I still take my time and cut short of my scribe line, and then file. But that's also why you're on this site, asking these kinda questions. The lee valley source has some multi paks very reasonable, so you can cover all bases. Good luck, post pictures :m2c:

 

[Herb]

I like a number 3 for brass.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

:m2c:Ever try reversing the blade in the hack saw frame? Makes all the difference in the world to cut on the pull for precision control rather than herding cats on the push. :redthumb:

 

[Gary]

Blades are very fragile. I'd rather drill it and then use a file to widen it. Save the jeweler saw blades for inlaids.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I picked up a scrap piece of barrel from a friend and have been practicing cutting dovetails. Not too hard to do if I take my time.I have a box of old sights I have been using to fit to the dovetails. It did surprise me that the difference between a real tight fit and slide through fit is about two strokes of a file. How tight do you guys make the fit between the dovetail and sight, underlug, and such?

 

I make them tight enough that it takes a brass drift and several tap (not hard hit)with small hammer to get the sight to slide into the dovetail tightly and snug so it won't move by it's self with out tapping it with a brass drift and hammer.

Woody

 

[Terry Zboril]

I am ordering tools to start my first gun project. There are a number of different size jewelers saw blades available. Which is the most useful for cutting things like underlug slots and such.

Eric,

Get several sizes, as each size will work best with each thickness and composition of material. (They are only about $3 a dozen.)

I also use a hacksaw (Morse Bi-Metal 18 tpi), flat graver, and three corner file for sight and lug slots, but for cutting out sideplates, patchboxes, toeplates, thimbles, and all other inlays, the jewelers saw is invaluable.

Regards,
Terry