JP Mc Coy Flintlock Rifle ?

[rudy parnell]

Anyone ever heard of this gun?

I appreciate any information that anyone has on this builder.

Don't have a picture to post at this time.

Gun is full stock....Lancaster style....plain..curly maple ....big lock....brass patch box....not fancy....double triggers. signed.

 

[mazo kid]

I have heard of the builder but don't have any info about him. Is this the rifle that was listed on GunBroker last month? Emery

 

[ronrryan]

I know they used to advertise them from an outfit in Las Vegas back in the nineties, dont know about the quality, I think they used good components. Good smoke, Ron

 

[squirejohn]

I Still have one of their brochures from 1996. The oufit is (was) JP Gunstocks Inc. In addition to the JP McCoy Squirrel rifle the also produced Leman, JP Beck, Lancaster, Henry, and JJ Henry Trade Gun. They were semi custom guns with various options such as;Wood grade, inlays, engraving, left handed,carving etc. Some of the specs for the JP McCoy are: 13/16 bbl., L&R Manton Lock, Davis double set triggers, brass trigger guard and butt plate from own mold, Std pull 14&3/8, drop at butt 3&3/4, OL 59" bbl length 36" or 42" std., and .32, .36,.40, or .45 cal.
A std flint sold for about $850. The price list for those on hand went up to $1250. I'm sure some sold for more as an "in stock" Lancaster with lots of goodies listed for $2250.

 

[Birddog6]

I had a J.P McCoy and it had an Orion barrel on it. Don't know if all of them did or not, but mine did. It was a very accurate lil rifle.

:thumbsup:

 

[Cutfingers]

Several years ago I had a J.P. Henry and made the mistake of selling it in a moment of weakness. Have regretted it ever since. Was an excellent shooter and almost an exact replica of the original Henry out of Moulton, Penn. All the above assumes this is the same maker as I picked up mine from the maker while at the Western Nationals Rendezvous in the early 90's.

 

[rudy parnell]

Yes Sir.

Gun has an overall length of 57&half".

Lop is 14&half"

Gentlemen, thanks for your help on this.

 

[dick rankin]

I have a .45 McCoy rifle. As it was advertised when I bought it new in the 90's, it has a 42" Green River barrel 42" long. It shoots very very good and I have shot many deer with it. Shoots very accurate with any load from 40 gr to 80 gr and prb. I've made a few modifications to it over the years and had to have a little work done on the lock and trigger. At the time it appeared to me to be about the best looking store-bought flintlock that at least looked like a regular Kentucky style rifle that was moderately affordable as compared to a custom made gun. My next big move is to try to replace the ramrod thimbles that screw into the bottom of the barrel and try to replace them with pinned ones. Don't think this would be too difficult but am pretty nervous about trying to put in the bottom thimble as that will need some careful stock fitting. My opinion is that this is a pretty good production gun.

 

[Zonie]

Just my opinion but, the entry thimble for the ramrod is one of the most difficult things to install when one is building a longrifle.

It is real easy to mess up and if this happens it is very difficult to hide the mistake.

Were the McCoy mine there would have to be a very good reason for considering changing the entry thimble.

 

[dick rankin]

Thank you very very much for your input. That is exactly why I haven't done anything for over 15 years. I'd hate to mess up the looks of my gun. I have put a brass nose cap, cut an inch off the stock to shorten the lop and put a plate on the bottom of the stock. I'm no professional but these all look fairly good, but not as good as a professional gunsmith would do i'm sure. Let me ask you another question about this gun if I may. It has only one lock bolt with no lock plate holding the lock on. I have also considered putting on some kind of lockplate that would take two bolts. Would it be much of a problem to inlet a sideplate, drill thru the plate, stock and into my lock, then tap this for a second lock bolt? Thanks for anybody's input here.

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

It's probably more trouble than it's worth. A simpler way would be to inlet the sideplate but instead of a full length locknail just drill for a screw with a similar size head to the one you already have. Easier and if you're anything like me harder to mess up!

 

[Birddog6]

If the lock is working OK and has a good fit at the pan/barrel fit, I suggest ya leave it alone.

That being said, if ya still want to do the front lock bolt, if I remember correctly that stock is open under the barrel & you can see the RR where it comes up towards the breech. If so you should easily be able to see how much wood you have there to drill thru for the front screw. I am referring to the thickness of the wood between the barrel & the RR.
If you are sure there is enough room for the screw, set up a drill point in your drill press & drill the hole, then tap it. (I suggest drill for a 6-32 or a 8-32 screw) Make sure ya use the Correct Size drill for the Tap & drill all the way thru.
Then drill the Correct Size thru hole for the bolt up to but not thru the lockplate.( I always use a small pilot hole in the lockplate & the sideplate to keep my drill from walking about)
Then ya tap the lockplate THRU the stock into the lock so you know it is aligned properly & you screw will start easily . Best tap for this is a spiral point tap with a turned down shank. (MSC)

As far as the entry pipe & RR pipes, if you change them, plan on refinishing the rifle as there is no way you are gonna do that & save the finish.

 

[dick rankin]

Really appreciate your help and comments but guess I'm not quite following you. You mention tapping twice. Isn't the hole in the lockplate the only hole that would get tapped? Is the lockplate hole drilled and tapped in the gun or out of the gun? I'm missing the sequence a bit too. Seems like I'd take the sideplate and match it up against the lockplate, while out of the gun, to see where the hole in the lockplate would go (I assume this would be toward the very front of the lock so as not to hit the frizzen spring). Once I got the proper distance between the two lock bolts figured out then I'd drill thru the stock assuming there was enough wood between the barrel and RR. Also, I know the proper thing to do if I mess with the ramrod thimbles would be to refinish the stock but I was hoping I could very very carefully use a dremel tool and exacto knife to inlet the replacement thimbles and also carefully drill holes to pin them in. Don't think this could be done? Refinishing the stock seems like a major job to me. I understand I'd have to carefully inlet the sideplate too about 1/2 the thickness of the sideplate?

 

[Zonie]

I'm sure Birddog6 will correct me if I'm wrong but I think what he meant to say is to use the tap drill thru the wood and thru the lock plate.

Then, using the hole thru the wood as a guide, enlarge its size in the wood to just clear the outside diameter of the tap. Do not drill this sized hole into the lock plate.

Install the lockplate and run a tap thru the stock so it enters the hole in the lockplate.
Start the tapping in the metal being careful to back off every 1/2 turn until you have at least 2 full turns of the tap machined.
At this point, you can remove the tap and lockplate and restart the tap in the partial threads you've made.
Then using real thread cutting oil you can finish tapping the lockplate hole.

As for the sideplate telling you where the tap needs to be, your partially right but this will depend on which side you have. They usually are a bit too long for the lockplate so some estimating has to be done to locate the forward screw.
The main thing to remember is the forward screw must not interfere with the ramrod or the mainspring in the lock. It can be a bit high or low at the nose of the lockplate if that is needed to clear the ramrod.

Now that I've given my opinion, I'll go one step farther.

If you want a side plate with two screws, find one that will come close to fitting the sideplate panal and mount it using the rear lockscrew.
Position it so it looks "right" and drill a small hole thru the front of it just starting it into the wood.
Drill a undersized hole in the wood and install a fillister head wood screw that matches the rear lockscrew. This screw should be about 3/8 long so it doesn't come close to the ramrod hole and there is no messing around with your lock to finish the project.

By the way, the sideplate should be inletted into the wood. They never sit flat on the surface of the wood.

 

[tg]

Do these have the screws thru the thimbles that also hold the barrel in place? i was thinking I heard that from someone before.

 

[mazo kid]

Here is another take on the "fake" front lock bolt....I have an early "Grand" Rifle built by Jack Garner and Gary Jones. The frizzen spring comes to the very front of the lock plate, so you would need to cut the front lock plate bolt exactly to fit flush or slightly less. On my rifle they drilled and tapped the wood under the front side plate hole and used a cut-down bolt so it matches exactly the rear lock bolt. You don't need the screw to really hold anything in place and it does fit very snugly. Emery

 

[rafterob]

If you are thinking of the two-bolt side plate make sure you look at the lock real close as to how it fits with the other components. You may not be able to install a front bolt because of conflicts with other parts. That is precisely why my rifle has only one lock bolt. If done well, there are no problems with just one lock bolt. You can get various single bolt escutcheon plates if you want to spruce that area up a bit. If you search "First Build" under my posts you will find a picture of what I did.

 

[45flint]

I've got one also. Haven't had any luck reaching builder (J.P.Gunstocks,Inc) (Jim Searles was their
master gunsmith.) can't find him either, mine has a 38" GM barrel. I love it. Also have orig catalog. Here is a copy of the page from the catalog.

http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p130/photomdp/?action=view&current=morts.jpg