Just about fed up…

[Hermit Tim]

This idea is not too popular amongst some folks. But I had this same problem with a CVA or two and a Traditions in the past. I know, a little different breech design. I took the nipples out and used a drill bit just above the size of the existing hole and drilled the nipples out. Never had another problem with these guns. I think in these instances the replacement nipples I had purchased weren't properly drilled.

Edit: I was referring to drilling out the tiny hole in the bottom of the nipple, not the larger opening in the top...

 

[Beaverman2]

I never hunt with a wet patch type lube, hunting season the one or two times a year that I load with a wonder lube type patch, load the rifle, put a masking tape dot over the bore to seal it ( it rains here in the PNW) and the gun stays loaded until I harvest or the season ends and I always keep it stored in the truck or garage if I'm home for a bit, no need to heat the gun and take the chance of producing moisture in the barrel from the heat exchange, your mileage may vary.

 

[ETipp]

.54 GPR yet again failed to fire. Clean and dry bore. Nylon brush through the fire channel. Popped a couple caps, paper moved.
90gr Swiss 3F, fresh CCI #11 Magnum cap (went off fine), t-shirt patch with T/C T-17 blue goo lube, .530 round ball. Tapped the stock to get powder into the channel.
Cap fired like it should. Not so much as a hang fire. Cost me a nice eating sized feral sow that was going to be given to a family that actually needs the meat.
And yet, the ROA that has been loaded and untouched for (where did the time go) 3-4 years? Went off like it had been loaded this afternoon.
Going to try again next week, have to work F/Sa/Su. Had to vent…

Why are you using a Tee shirt patch???

Why Blue Goo lube???

.530 RB, .018 quality ticking, 90 grains 3F Swiss and TOTW Mink Oil lube will serve you well in a .54 GPR. The proper nipple is key.

Patching material means everything. Even with ticking, poor quality will produce poor results. Just went through this last month. Ordered some new ticking from October Country and problem solved. Same thickness. The cheap ticking weave was not holding up. Retrieved patches proved it. New ticking fired patches looks like I could reuse them and accuracy went back to very good. Also, with ticking and TOTW Mink Oil it will not make one bit of difference if the lube is heavy.

 

[jdw276]

Why are you using a Tee shirt patch???

Why Blue Goo lube???

.530 RB, .018 quality ticking, 90 grains 3F Swiss and TOTW Mink Oil lube will serve you well.

Not if it does not go off.......

 

[ETipp]

Not if it does not go off.......

It can’t go off if certain lubes has saturated into poor quality patching material causing the powder charge to not ignite. That will not happen with high quality ticking of the proper thickness and a high quality, proven lube.

 

[Frontier's]

If it doesn't go off, look at the most obvious area...

Remove the nipple and see if there's powder under it.

 

[jdw276]

It can’t go off if certain lubes has saturated into poor quality patching material causing the powder charge to not ignite. That will not happen with high quality ticking of the proper thickness and a high quality, proven lube.

90 grains is a column of powder 3" tall and compressed? Takes more lube than patch to contaminate that much powder I would think. Patch and lube go in after the powder I hear. To soak through to the point of the base of the powder column to have so much a cap will not ignite it? And the amount of time necessary to do that is 15 minutes or more after loading?

But what do I know. My ignition problems seem to always been a result of a clogged fire channel.

 

[ETipp]

90 grains is a column of powder 3" tall and compressed? Takes more lube than patch to contaminate that much powder I would think. Patch and lube go in after the powder I hear. To soak through to the point of the base of the powder column to have so much a cap will not ignite it? And the amount of time necessary to do that is 15 minutes or more after loading?

But what do I know. My ignition problems seem to always been a result of a clogged fire channel.

It very well could be an obstruction in the flash channel. But a saturated powder charge could still be it, depending on the patch material and an inferior lube. Perhaps I missed it but where did the OP state the misfire was 15 minutes after loading?

I find it interesting that the only ML’s I’ve owned since 1981 have all had patent breeches. I never have nor had the first problem with any of them to this day. Clean them properly and load them with proven, quality components and there shouldn’t be any problems.

 

[smokepolehall]

This rifle does have a hooked breech correct ? Pop the wedge out & stick the end in a bucket of warm soapy water. Less the nipple, & start cleaning the bore as the soapy water draws in & out it will clean the bore & breech. Dry it squirt brake cleaner or electric contact spray to drive any water out of area. Put on muzzle let it drain for 15 minutes & treat it for rust prevention.

 

[52Bore]

Try snapping a cap after wiping.
I do a damp patch, then dry, then snap a cap, then load.
Bang - no issues.