Just picked up a hawk & need to know if I done OK

[noahmercy]

I just got back from the gun show where I bought my first 'hawk. It's got 3J stamped on the blade, a 3 13/16" cutting edge, and a 19" handle. Is this a decent throwing 'hawk? I tried doing a search, but 3J won't work, so I appologize if I'm asking one of those "revolving" questions. (You know...the ones that keep coming around over and over again. eace "preciate any feedback, fellers. :master:

 

[Ohio Joe]

Nothing wrong with a 3 3/16 cutting edge! Don't know what the 3J stamp means? Mine are old H&B hawk heads. Had'em for close to 25 or more years, give or take?

Now, the real test is the hawk block. Get to practicing! :thumbsup:

 

[noahmercy]

Thanks, Ohio Joe. I figured this'd be legal at most any match since the edge is under 4".

I just read on another thread that the overall length of a throwing 'hawk should be equal to the distance from the inside of your elbow to the tip of your fingers. :: Since I'm not quite a troglodyte, this 'hawk is way long using that standard. Do I need to start whittling or should I try it first? Also, silly as it sounds, what do y'all recommend for a target? Just a big round from a tree or what? Sorry to be so naive, but I figger it's better to ask than go off and do something half-a.....well, you know. :thumbsup:

 

[Ohio Joe]

Noah,

Out here your probably not going to run into much regulations on hawks, but then you never know. I'd say go with what you have and make it work.

My hawk handle is 19 inches overall, and my cutting edge is 3 3/4 inches... No one has ever said I couldn't use it! Also, I like to keep spare handles around, so you may want to get some if you haven't already. Take your hawk with you so your sure to get the right handle(s).

I use a slab from an elm tree that measures about 21 to 24 inches across and is about 8 inches thick. Get yourself something like that and mount it to a good solid post...

If Claude is reading this, maybe he could bring up that picture he posted a year or so ago about hawk targets, the one he used. His picture is worth a thousand words!

Good luck to yae! Oh yes, 7 normal steps from your block is a good starting point. You'll do fine and make adjustments from there! :thumbsup:

 

[vradin]

Also, silly as it sounds, what do y'all recommend for a target? Just a big round from a tree or what?

Tree cookies. I use red pine cookies, about 2' diameter, 8 to 10" thick, mounted on a tripod easle stand. We also have a rack made from landscape timbers that holds 9 cookies in a 3x3 grid for our tic-tac-throw game.

Another option is to use cutoff scraps from construction 2x4's. trim to length of about 6-8" and stack grain out in a block and bind with a strapping machine or just use some pallet wood to make a box around the block. Looks like a butcher block, and is a great way to recycle scraps.

vic

 

[No Powder]

3j's are good hawks.

 

[flaming canvas]

Most of the best hawk throwers I know use a shorter handle, 14 inches or maybe a little less. In particular, Dan "Strawstalker" Bromley, Randy " Pack Mule" West and Juver "Lazy Horse" Macias are the three who usually fight over the New Mexico championship and they all use a short handled hawk.

 

[boar]

Make a fist measure from nuckle to your elbow .Get a sawed peice of creek willow or quaken aspen you wont a soft wood so you don't break your handle when hit the block if hawk sticks with handle down to close back of half step if handle is up to far back move up half step you want hawk to hit full blade so you can cut playing card in half Dilly

 

[john s mosby]

Okay, I'm getting confused here. What should the "overall length" of your hawk be if the distance from the inside of your elbo to the tip of your fingers is 15 inches? Or should you be measuring the distance from your closed fist to the outside of your elbo? (14 1/2 inches for me)

I just got a hawk from TOTW and the handle itself is 18 inches long. It's their "Iroquois" model. Most of the handles in their catalog are 18 inch ones.

 

[noahmercy]

Thankee, all. I just measured my arm both ways and it came to 15" either way, so I think I'll start by shortening the handle to that length. I plan on whittling out a handle from some wood my friend brought down from the mountain (can't remember if it's laurel or what, but it's tough as all get out) so I'll have a good spare. As I become a little more proficient, I'll try shortening the factory handle an inch at a time and see where that gets me. Once I find a good length I can make a few back-ups.

And I like the idea of the "butcher block" type practice target. That way, as the center gets chewed up, I could just replace the bad blocks with fresh or even swap them for good ones from around the edges.

Again, thanks for all the replies. Keep 'em coming. :thumbsup:

 

[Claude Mathis]

If Claude is reading this, maybe he could bring up that picture he posted a year or so ago about hawk targets, the one he used. His picture is worth a thousand words!

Is this the photo you mean?

 

[noahmercy]

Hey Claude, I don't have any kids...do you think I could use two chihuahuas instead? ::

 

[vradin]

And I like the idea of the "butcher block" type practice target. That way, as the center gets chewed up, I could just replace the bad blocks with fresh or even swap them for good ones from around the edges.

I couldn't find the "real" drawings I made a while ago, so did up a quick and dirty pencil sketch of the frame:

Note that a 2x4 isn't really 2" by 4" so adjust for what you have to get the final inner dimensions so it's at least 24" square. The top and right side have some compressable foam to keep everything tight. I use old carpet pad scraps. The hasp & eye keeps the thing locked up tight, and a spring clip "locks" the hasp from opening due to repeated hits. The frame is made of 1x4's, and with a 6" depth to the 2x4 filler, hitting and tearing up the frame is near impossible. The back is some 1/4" luan or cheap ply. Just keeps the filler in place and even.

When the center gets torn up, just replace with edge boards. Then when that's torn up- flip them all end for end and start over.

There's a larger copy of the sketch here: sketch if the one above is too small.

vic

 

[76monza]

Noah Mercy,

I have thrown with 18" handles and handles that I have cut shorter. In another thread I talked about guys using 6 to 8 inch handles and throwing at the block from only 6 feet away. You can also throw just the hawk head without the handle.
Now I'm certainly no expert at this but it seems the reason we try to cut them consistently them same length has to do with establishing a set distance to the block. Remember the hawk is rotating on an axis when its released. If the handle is shorter the hawk should rotate one full circle in a shorter distance. Thus it stands to reason a longer handle will require a greater distance.

Smokeydays

 

[gabi]

Use anything as long as you don't use wet oak. tried it once, it is like throwing a hawk at rubber, it don't stick! lol :crackup:

 

[76monza]

Gabi,
You ain't kiddin about that wet oak block, thow your hawk and run like hell!! We have a pin oak block at our range...you learn to be light on feet and real alert when you throw. Sometimes that hawk will find its way back to you.

Smokeydays

 

[loishd]

Noah Mercy--Under the posting by Flint50 titled "tomahawk throw" I posted a reply that my help you out. It is currently the last one.
Also on a target block, I go to the local lumber yard and ask them for landscape post the kind you stack around flower beds. Sometimes they have ones that are warped at discounted prices. Plant it into the ground 1.5-2 ft. You'll want a block 1-2ft in diameter 8" thick or better. Bore two holes like this [:] about 8" apart and use 3/8 or 1/2" lag bolts to hold block to post. I have two block on a post.
As I mentioned in the other posting practice-practice-practice!!!!
HAVE FUN AND GOOD LUCK

 

[noahmercy]

Excellent replies, guys. I'm gonna' go down to the local sawmill tomorrow and see what they have. If they have any decent-sized rounds, I'll grab one of those so I can at least get started throwing right away. If they have some mangled sawn lumber or end cuts, I'll go that route. Whether now or later, I'll have a "butcher block" target. For practice I think that'll be the bee's knees.

I've also decided not to trim the handle until I've had a chance to play some first. I used to be bad-arse throwing knives. I'd ding 'em up something fierce by hitting the one I'd stuck...got so bad I took to throwing one at a time or aiming at a different point for each throw. Hopefully it won't take long to become comfortable with this sucker.

As far as wood NOT to throw at...any of you fellers ever played with eucalyptus? My Uncle cut one down a few years ago and brought me some for firewood. :curse: IT DOESN'T SPLIT! No joke. I used to swing a mean maul, but I couldn't even split an 8-inch diameter, 12-inch long chunk. The maul/axe/wedge would go about two inches in and stop cold. Then it would require a minute and a half of wrenching back and forth to get the implement back out. I tried slapping the wedge and the maul with a 15 pound sledge...no dice. You might get a hawk to stick, but getting it back is another story. That's the wood from hell as far as I'm concerned.

Thanks again, all. :thumbsup:

 

[vradin]

As far as wood NOT to throw at...any of you fellers ever played with eucalyptus? My Uncle cut one down a few years ago and brought me some for firewood. :curse: IT DOESN'T SPLIT!

Eucalyptus is the devil's own wood. Overpowering stink when working green and can dull a sawblade in seconds. I had a couple of pieces for turning- tore up most every tool I had, spent more time sharpening than turning.

BUT! like the old story goes- sure is pretty, tho.

vic

 

[KyFlintlock]

Is this the photo you mean?

LMBO!!!

Great pic!