Just purchased one!

[jgrafton]

Picked up a .32 Pedersoli Flintlock from Cabela's yesterday for $449. I am returning to Blackpowder after a number of years, and always wanted Flintlock longrifle. So, this is my first - I my have a few questions over next few months!

 

[Flint311]

Fire away! With the questions, I mean. Lots of good info here. Welcome back to the dark side! :thumbsup:

 

[torn moc]

Welcom back to The Darkside !!! Ya got a Nice rifle !!! figger out how to post pics here so you can show us when it arrives !!! :thumbsup:

 

[ohio ramrod]

:bow: WARNING :bow: Black powder is addicting. Once addicted the only treatment is more powder!

 

[stubshaft]

Shooting a .32 rocklock is a blast! :hatsoff:

 

[Pete44ru]

Congrats - Which Pedersoli model did you get ?

I was looking for a .32 for several weeks before I bought a .32 caplock from our classifieds, and IMHO that was a pretty decent price.

hotoSmile:

 

[jgrafton]

The model I purchased was the Fontier (Blue Ridge) rifle in .32 cal. I still have some accessories from a TC Hawkin Flintlock I had years ago. Still have a jag, ball puller, worm, ramrod extender, and a pan primer. I need to get a vent pick, and was thinking about wrapping the flint in lead instead of leather - got any opinions on this? I have a descent possibles bag that I got at Fort de Chartres in S. Illinois some years back.
I like the plain look of the Frontier model actually kinds of wish the ramrod pipes were browned steel.

 

[Ed Hamberg]

Leather??? Lead??? I have used leather since "80, never tried lead cause leather worked so good, use what suits you, if it works for you!!!!!!

 

[paulvallandigham]

Flatten a lead ball with a hammer, or stone, and you have your flint wrap. It needs to be thin to wrap around the flint, and you can trim it to the width of your jaws. Eventually, it will weigh less than 20 grains( less than half the weight of your RB), so don't be afraid to trim off "wings", or any lead that sticks out beyond the jaws.

The ADVANTAGE of using lead, over leather as a flint wrap is twofold: the lead will form to the smooth but uneven surface of the lead; and it will NOT let the stone MOVE in the jaws on impact with the flint. Instead, you get a clean even stroke of the flint along the face of the frizzen and a shower of sparks thrown into the pan.

Leather, no matter how thin, or dried, tends to become a shock absorber, and allows the flint to rebound on impact, causing bits of steel to become clogs in the edge, and prevent a good stroke, and slicing of steel from the frizzen. Eventually, the clogs prevent the flint from cutting steel at all, and you have a misfire.

If the lock Geometry is at all wrong with your lock, the problems are compounded. All this leads to frustration by the shooter, a distrust as to the reliability of ignition from flintlocks in general, and finally, selling the gun to buy a percussion gun instead.

Up under Member Resources, you will find a section, " Articles, Charts and Links". There are a number of very good articles there you should read. One of them is about shooting and tuning flintlocks. It will help you check your lock geometry on any lock, and teach you how to correct the problems that faulty geometry create.

If you have any questions, please feel free to send me a PT, and I will help you "fix" your lock. :thumbsup:

 

[jgrafton]

Great advice - Thank you! I had not thought about using lead to wrap the flint until recently, but it made alot of sense to me.