Keeping forend straight

[Ed Grubaugh]

Hi all you builders

Couple of questions for you tonight. When working the long forend, what is the best way to keep it straight? I'm along way from that now but when you're working it down to an 1/8 or a 1/16 in. there's not much room for error.

Also, years ago I was talking to and old gunsmith about my rasp being dull and needed to get some new ones. He told me to sharpen them with acid. Did't say what kind. Anybody out there ever done this before?

Thanks Ed

 

[LRB]

Keep the barrel pinned in the stock as much as possible. Common muriatic acid, pool acid. Will rejuvenate files and rasps, but don't expect them to work like new, or stay sharp as long. Soak them for an hour or so and check your results.

 

[rich pierce]

When working the fore end down close I chalk the stock with a piece of kid's sidewalk chalk- blue, yellow, red, whatever (not white). Then I use the rasp or file longways along the fore end. It removes the chalk at the high spots and shows me where I need to remove wood, where I need to leave it alone. In general, using a rasp or file the long way, sliding it down the stock, is the best way to achieve a uniform thickness. If it's a strongly swamped barrel, the rasp or file can be snapped off to be shorter- 6" is good.

 

[Ed Grubaugh]

Thanks for the info, Rich and Wick, appreciate it.

Sorry I didn't get back sooner My internet has been down for four days.

Ed

 

[Bill Bounds]

Hi:
Boggs tool, I think out there in california. Will re-sharpen files and rasps. Google them for the number and give em a call. I don't have any idea the cost. I think they liquid blast the teeth with a super fine slurry of abrasive.
I have an old horseshoe rasp i been spraying with a rust remover, I see some improvement, but not much. I don't own any rasps that would be worth the bother.
Bill

 

[Zonie]

"...He told me to sharpen them with acid. Did't say what kind. Anybody out there ever done this before?"
____________________
IMO, acid attacks the sharp areas of the steel before it has much effect on the rest of the part.

This is just the opposite of what you want to do.
You really want it to remove the excess material and leave a sharp edge.

Here are a couple of links to Boggs Tool:
You will notice Boggs (or someone representing Boggs) came here and more or less talked about the company from a third person perspective. This kinda turned a few members off.
Albert did seem to be happy with the results though.
USERS COMMENTS
BOGGS RESHARPENING

 

[Flintandsteel]

Ed,

We were just talking about this on another BB.
I've just started using a flat scraper mounted on an engineer's square to "plane" down the sides of the forestock. I first trace a line on the top edge of the barrel channel the thick ness I want the forestock. Then, using my scraper guide, pull that scraper down the stock till I get to that thickness. The keeps the side of the stock parallel with the barrel channel( even if its swamped) I've had problems before with some of that wavy action just using rasps and files.
Drawing additional lines on the side of the forestock, and using them to taper the barrel channel and the ramrod channel will keep it all ncely even.
I hope this made some sense. :winking:

 

[WRussell]

I've sharpened files with acid. Muriatic acid will do, also battery acid; the stronger it is the faster it will work.

It's not intuitive that it leaves a sharp edge, but it does. The bad part is that the edge is not smooth, nor is it strong. You won't get as smooth a finish, and the file won't last as long as it did the first time.

Probably a good idea if you have access to someone else's vat of acid and just want to extend the life of rough work files, otherwise probably not worth the bother.

My two cents.

 

[Ed Grubaugh]

Thanks all for your input. I can't beleve the wealth of wisdom and the willingness to give it freely as I have found here. The support you give each other and especially new builders really shines.

Patch that sounds like a good way to work that forarm. Thanks

Ed