Keeping Walker cylinder turning freely

[Dexterado]

Just curious, how do you Walker shooters keep your cylinder turning freely during a shooting session? My wedge is just barely pushed through, and it rotates freely for the first six shots, then starts to stiffen. I don’t have this issues with my other 2 revolvers. I feel like I may be missing something on the Walker. I only use oil on the arbor and cylinder face, so maybe that’s where I’m messing up?

 

[45D]

Just curious, how do you Walker shooters keep your cylinder turning freely during a shooting session? My wedge is just barely pushed through, and it rotates freely for the first six shots, then starts to stiffen. I don’t have this issues with my other 2 revolvers. I feel like I may be missing something on the Walker. I only use oil on the arbor and cylinder face, so maybe that’s where I’m messing up?

2 things -
1- Wedge "barely pushed through" means barrel assy is loose so probably a lot of fouling from too big of a "gap" at cyl / forcing cone getting between arbor and cylinder (the thin oil / grease everyone wants to use for some reason can't stop it . . . ). Look up "short arbor" and have fun!!!

2 - The grease should have some consistency to BLOCK fouling rather than the afore mentioned "thin" stuff !

Fix these 2 things and you can shoot max loads all day no problem.

Mike

 

[Dexterado]

2 things -
1- Wedge "barely pushed through" means barrel assy is loose so probably a lot of fouling from too big of a "gap" at cyl / forcing cone getting between arbor and cylinder (the thin oil / grease everyone wants to use for some reason can't stop it . . . ). Look up "short arbor" and have fun!!!

2 - The grease should have some consistency to BLOCK fouling rather than the afore mentioned "thin" stuff !

Fix these 2 things and you can shoot max loads all day no problem.

Mike

 

[Dexterado]

2 things -
1- Wedge "barely pushed through" means barrel assy is loose so probably a lot of fouling from too big of a "gap" at cyl / forcing cone getting between arbor and cylinder (the thin oil / grease everyone wants to use for some reason can't stop it . . . ). Look up "short arbor" and have fun!!!

2 - The grease should have some consistency to BLOCK fouling rather than the afore mentioned "thin" stuff !

Fix these 2 things and you can shoot max loads all day no problem.

Mike

I see, so thicker grease is the way to do it? I have some over the ball grease that I don’t use. Maybe greasing the arbor with it is a better option?

 

[wiscoaster]

...... I only use oil on the arbor and cylinder face, so maybe that’s where I’m messing up?

Agreed with @45D that's where your main problem lies. And you don't need to use oil on the cylinder face. Just keep it clean so it clears the forcing cone.

 

[wiscoaster]

.......Maybe greasing the arbor with it is a better option?

Research "chamber lube" and grease the arbor with that stuff.

 

[Ed C.]

Follow @45D's advice and that will cure one of the Walkers cylinder rotation problems. The other problem with Walkers is they do not shed spent caps very well and they will often jam between the cylinder and shield which causes you to have to stop and fiddle with them vs my '58 Remingtons which causes me almost zero problems with caps. I use grease on all my revolver cylinder pins, run a close gap on the guns I can control and have no problems with cylinder fouling.