Kentucky Pistols
- Thread starter Brik847
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
DOUBLEDEUCE 1
69 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2008
- Messages
- 4,165
- Reaction score
- 878
If the pistol is anything like the old CVA Kentucky pistol, and it probably is, the barrel is held in the stock with the tang screw and two other brass screws that go through the nose cap. The nose cap screws sandwich a small part of the forward end of the stock between the nose cap and the bottom of the barrel.
Don't have one, so looked it up.
Looks as if there are two screws that go up from the bottom of the nose cap. There would of course be the Tang Screw and possibly one of the lock nails goes through the back of the breech plug. http://www.traditionsfirearms.com/eshop/products/Traditions Pistol Guide.pdf
Looks as if there are two screws that go up from the bottom of the nose cap. There would of course be the Tang Screw and possibly one of the lock nails goes through the back of the breech plug. http://www.traditionsfirearms.com/eshop/products/Traditions Pistol Guide.pdf
Last edited by a moderator:
Although it wasn't asked, IMO one should beware of using heavy powder loads in this gun.
Not too long ago, a member found that the thin wood which is trapped between the barrel and the nose cap broke. I'm not sure that heavy recoil was the reason but it is possible.
In any case, he had real problems with holding the barrel onto the stock after that happened.
Not too long ago, a member found that the thin wood which is trapped between the barrel and the nose cap broke. I'm not sure that heavy recoil was the reason but it is possible.
In any case, he had real problems with holding the barrel onto the stock after that happened.
Brik847 said:
I own one of these. It is one tang screw that goes through the top and into the trigger assymbly. The other two go through the nose cap. The piece of wood that is sandwitched at this point is actually fairly thich so I cant see how recoil would break it.
Zonie,
You remind me of an incident back in the '70s when I first started this silly pastime. A good friend and I decided to both build the CVA Kentucky pistol kit; as stated above it has the same arrangement with the nose cap.
Mine went quite well but the inletting on his was poorly done. We didn't know enough then to fix it; we just assumed it was supposed to be that way. One of the problems was the barrel channel was uneven, so his barrel did not fit well. But, with the tang screw at the back and the two screws through the nose cap we managed to force it down and hold it just fine. It worked ok for a while but eventually that bit of wood under the nose cap cracked and it finally broke off, as you described happened to your friend's gun. That was too long ago to remember what loads we were using, but we tended to like making lots of noise and smoke. We cracked the stock on a CVA Colonial pistol also, probably due to a hot load.
That was about the time we figured out that it was acceptable to assume the kits, and even finished guns, weren't necessarily perfect out of the box. Ah, the naivete of youth!
You remind me of an incident back in the '70s when I first started this silly pastime. A good friend and I decided to both build the CVA Kentucky pistol kit; as stated above it has the same arrangement with the nose cap.
Mine went quite well but the inletting on his was poorly done. We didn't know enough then to fix it; we just assumed it was supposed to be that way. One of the problems was the barrel channel was uneven, so his barrel did not fit well. But, with the tang screw at the back and the two screws through the nose cap we managed to force it down and hold it just fine. It worked ok for a while but eventually that bit of wood under the nose cap cracked and it finally broke off, as you described happened to your friend's gun. That was too long ago to remember what loads we were using, but we tended to like making lots of noise and smoke. We cracked the stock on a CVA Colonial pistol also, probably due to a hot load.
That was about the time we figured out that it was acceptable to assume the kits, and even finished guns, weren't necessarily perfect out of the box. Ah, the naivete of youth!
Robert Stone
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2007
- Messages
- 5
- Reaction score
- 0
I have one also with the sandwiched wood missing I plan on ordering a new nose cap from DGW that is about 2" in length and cut off enough to be able to make a "new" sandwiched section of the end of the stock, or order a new stock?
MikeChapin
58 Cal.
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2005
- Messages
- 2,183
- Reaction score
- 6
Bad Bob said:
What you can do is install a shallow crescent nose cap and put an underlug on the barrel and pin it. The top two pistols in the picture are done this way.
I got the idea when I cut down a CVA Kentucky rifle for my wife. I took six inches off the barrel and installed a shallow crescent nosecap. When she got me both flint and percussion Kentucky pistols for Christmas, I did the same for the pistols. Conforming the stock to the nosecap gives the pistols a little sleeker look than with the factory guns.
i have an old cva with that stock arrangement, and since i didn't like the lack of strength, i permanently bedded the nosecap onto the stock with epoxy. if you grease the barrel lightly before the epoxy treaement, it will come off quite easily!
