• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Kentucky Rifle build

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bosipipes

32 Cal.
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
I bought A tradions Kentucky rifle Flintlock model. I just started to put it together. There are no diagrams or parts list, so this is going to be fun. What I would like to know is.. I put it together and there is a lot of play in the trigger. is there some kind of spring that should in there to put tension on it?
Do you know of any web links that be of help.

Thanks and hello to all. this is a great place you all have here.
 
Hi Bosipipes,
I have the traditions Kentucky rifle and pistol.
And the traditions tennessee flintlock rifle and pistol.
All have the play in the trigger.
It is just the nature of the beast.
 
Welcome to the forums.

I'm not sure what those kits come with for a trigger, single or double.

Single triggers are fairly easy to fix. Doesn't matter if they're pinned through the wood or have a modern trigger plate. Either way, with a little imagination the sloppy trigger play can be cured.

Here are a couple thing you can do for a single trigger, if that's what yours has.

One method is to put a small steel or brass wedge in the trigger groove ahead of or on the front side of the trigger to act as a stop, that's if the shape of the trigger allows.

With a modern trigger plate, I have soldered a piece to the upper side of the plate to act as a stop. Depending on how the modern plate and trigger are designed, sometimes the piece will be soldered in front of the trigger. Often I'll cut a step up inside on the back of the trigger and solder a stop for the step to rest on. :shocked2:

Hope that makes sense, hard to explain in writing. :youcrazy:

I usually look at how each one is designed and make something work. :thumbsup:
 
With your lock out see how much room is in between the top of the trigger and the bar that the trigger engages. I have a rifle that I soldered a piece of metal on top of the trigger, with a little bit of filing to fit it took out the sloppyness and improved the pull.
 
There was a post in past, where a person cut a slot in sear bar and put a spring from a ink pen that kept it from rattleing. When he cut the slot on end of the bar, it was like a pin to slip the spring down on it. Dilly
 
I considered installing a screw through the trigger plate to contact the trigger. I figured that I could then adjust the relationship between the trigger and the seer. Perhaps this would be helpful in a target vs. hunting with cold hands type situation. Makes more sense to me than set triggers as I hate set triggers. :p Carry on!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top