Kentucky teardown project progress

[Flintlock Whiskey]

I would use one of the finer Scotch Brite pads in gray or white between coats to take down any raised grain while not taking too much stain off the surface.

Thank you Sir! I know the white ones don't have emory on them, but will the blue ones work as well? I have a bunch of those.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Pictures please

I will try to provide photo updates as it comes along.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Here are a couple of pics I promised to post. It's actually a little darker than shown. I will be putting on another coat later today. Just not sure if a third one should be applied.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Blue and white are about 1000 grit. So, yes, the blue should be fine. Scotch Brite pads smooth about like steel wool but doesn't leave the tiny steel particles.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Blue and white are about 1000 grit. So, yes, the blue should be fine. Scotch Brite pads smooth about like steel wool but doesn't leave the tiny steel particles.

How many coats of stain would you suggest?

 

[Grenadier1758]

@Flintlock Whiskey, as many coats of stain that it takes to get the stock color you want. Do be aware that the finish coat will make the color darker.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

@Flintlock Whiskey, as many coats of stain that it takes to get the stock color you want. Do be aware that the finish coat will make the color darker.

In that case, Im done with the staining. Its in the back seat of my f150 and will sit there for the day baking in the AZ sun. When its around 100 here, the interior gets up to around 135-145 depending on clouds and haze. Thank you Grenadier. The choices for a finish are BLO or Minwax tung oil. What would you choose? Anyone can chime in also.

EDIT: I meant to say "tung oil" instead of tru oil, which apparently is basically BLO.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Update:
Last night I coned the barrel. I finished the job with 400 grit which polished it reasonably well.
I took my plains rifle out over the weekend with friends and had my first experience with a coned gun. It was only finished with 220 grit so it could have been smoother but even so, the ability to load without a short starter was great. Probably going to have to loan the tool out to the others. Accuracy seems to be unaffected.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Made up a brew of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil. Rubbed it in really well and wiped it down with a dry cloth to remove any excess. Really like how it is turning out. I will let it bake in the truck again tomorrow. Any suggestions as to how much time I should give it before applying the next coat?

 

[Grenadier1758]

In that case, Im done with the staining. Its in the back seat of my f150 and will sit there for the day baking in the AZ sun. When its around 100 here, the interior gets up to around 135-145 depending on clouds and haze. Thank you Grenadier. The choices for a finish are BLO or Minwax tung oil. What would you choose? Anyone can chime in also.

EDIT: I meant to say "tung oil" instead of tru oil, which apparently is basically BLO.

The finishing oils you want to use should have the driers in them. Modern tung oil finishes and the Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil have the necessary driers and sealers to protect the stock. BLO by itself does not seal the wood.

The finish should feel dry to the touch. Probably a day or two.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

The finishing oils you want to use should have the driers in them. Modern tung oil finishes and the Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil have the necessary driers and sealers to protect the stock. BLO by itself does not seal the wood.

The finish should feel dry to the touch. Probably a day or two.

Thanks. Have to go with blo. Cut 60/40 with mineral spirits. Sat there quite a while letting it soak in. Any spot that looked like it needed more got another application. Wiped it down and letting bake in the truck for a couple or three days.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Put a coat of Laural Mtn browning solution on last night and applied more throughout the day. My biggest problem is it is hot (90-100 degrees) with humidity at <10%, more like 6%. So it dries out quickly. Setting up a situation where I can apply humidity in my situation is a joke. As per the instructions and what others have said here, the barrel looks like he11, but I have high hopes.

 

[TDM]

Put a coat of Laural Mtn browning solution on last night and applied more throughout the day. My biggest problem is it is hot (90-100 degrees) with humidity at <10%, more like 6%. So it dries out quickly. Setting up a situation where I can apply humidity in my situation is a joke. As per the instructions and what others have said here, the barrel looks like he11, but I have high hopes.

Never had a problem with low humidity down here, but if you have an old fashioned humidifier you could try putting that under the barrel, maybe in a closet or shower. Or you could run the hot water in the tub or shower with it hanging close by, if your hot water will last a few hours!

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Never had a problem with low humidity down here, but if you have an old fashioned humidifier you could try putting that under the barrel, maybe in a closet or shower. Or you could run the hot water in the tub or shower with it hanging close by, if your hot water will last a few hours!

This time of year, all we have is hot water. But, point taken. I'm going to have to figure something out.
Update: I have a white plastic storage container courtesy of U.S. Naval surplus. By noon, inside that thing, it should be as humid as upstate NY on a summer sunny day.

 

[TDM]

This time of year, all we have is hot water. But, point taken. I'm going to have to figure something out.

Actually, if you have a small camp stove and a big pot that holds 2 or 3 gallons of water you could make a humidifier. Just need to enclose the barrel to some degree. But the humidity is important. I was shocked at the difference I obtained when I browned a barrel in the winter and then another one in the summer with the heat and humidity. The summer one turned out great!

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Actually, if you have a small camp stove and a big pot that holds 2 or 3 gallons of water you could make a humidifier. Just need to enclose the barrel to some degree. But the humidity is important. I was shocked at the difference I obtained when I browned a barrel in the winter and then another one in the summer with the heat and humidity. The summer one turned out great!

I think the storage container will work out ok. To get some experience, that barrel pictured is from a 40 +/- year old CVA Plains Rifle. If I make any notable mistakes, I won't cry too much. It's been my "kick around gun" for the last 20-25yrs. If it works, I get a nicely browned barrel, if not.....

 

[Hermit Tim]

Here are a couple of pics I promised to post. It's actually a little darker than shown. I will be putting on another coat later today. Just not sure if a third one should be applied.
View attachment 223247

Looking good so far.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Looking good so far.

Thank you, sir!

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

I put the barrel in the container pictured overnight. The barrel is mounded with the barrel wedge attachment, in a vise to keep it up out of the water. This is the results:

 

[TDM]

I put the barrel in the container pictured overnight. The barrel is mounded with the barrel wedge attachment, in a vise to keep it up out of the water. This is the results:

Very Nice! You can lightly card it with fine steel wool then put it back in for another go if your not happy with the first result.