Kentucky teardown project progress
- Thread starter Flintlock Whiskey
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Don’t scrub or rub hard. Start out with a light touch and go over it several times if needed. Change to a new pad as they clog up.
What is all the hoopla about using BLO on the barrel?
Be sure and rinse the steel wool before you use it with something like acetone to remove any oil from it.
Way to go Flintlock Whiskey! I’m excited to see your progress coming along nicely. Glad to see someone else making one of these their own, very satisfying! Keep up the great work. Here’s a link to my redo of one of these.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...ntier-flintlock-customization-project.142279/
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...ntier-flintlock-customization-project.142279/
Will do.
The barrel is coming along really well. I've learned that I absolutely must check on it every hour when it's in the little hot house I'm using.
I'm going to re-do the frizzen with the compound for frizzens from TOTW. But I am thinking about tearing down the whole lock and browning the lock plate, cock, friz spring and the frizzen itself. It pains me to do it because it has such a nice case hardening to it. If I don't, it will stand out like a sore thumb. Thoughts anyone?
I'm going to re-do the frizzen with the compound for frizzens from TOTW. But I am thinking about tearing down the whole lock and browning the lock plate, cock, friz spring and the frizzen itself. It pains me to do it because it has such a nice case hardening to it. If I don't, it will stand out like a sore thumb. Thoughts anyone?
Thank you brother!
Update:
Mounted the barrel. It only has one pin and the tang screw holding it together to the stock, guess its all that's needed. Found that with all the BLO I let soak into the wood, it swole up a bit. Had to drill out a few holes a little to get everything to fit. The barrel browning came out better than I hoped. I will have it all together tomorrow. I am experimenting with browning my CVA Plains Rifle's lock plate and hammer to see if doing it to the Kentucy is worth it. If not, all that will be left is re-hardening the frizzen. Pictures to follow.
Mounted the barrel. It only has one pin and the tang screw holding it together to the stock, guess its all that's needed. Found that with all the BLO I let soak into the wood, it swole up a bit. Had to drill out a few holes a little to get everything to fit. The barrel browning came out better than I hoped. I will have it all together tomorrow. I am experimenting with browning my CVA Plains Rifle's lock plate and hammer to see if doing it to the Kentucy is worth it. If not, all that will be left is re-hardening the frizzen. Pictures to follow.
The browning job looks much better than the pics would suggest. Do have a problem with the wood swelling a bit from the BLO. Having to drill out some screw holes a little to compensate and do some refitting of the lock, it's back plate and butt plate.
Completed the gun this evening, than goodness! I posted a thread elsewhere about this, I re-hardened the frizzen with Track's true spark. Cleaning the residue was a b#%@&. Some things I learned, I was wise to take all the time I needed and didn't rush through it. I will never use BLO like I did, ever again. I was advised to let as much of the stuff soak in as possible. I am happy with the way the stock turned out looks wise, the gunstock color stain really looks great, at least to me. But the amount of "swelling" that occurred caused me a few headaches. All of the wood screw holes had to be carefully opened up, otherwise the screws would bind up as though there was no hole at all. I had to do some inletting for the patch box, lock and lock screws plate. Next time it's going to be another form of oil finish. Even though I really like the way it came out, the excessive use of BLO added a whole evening time wise and the accompanying irritation. As the saying goes, your milage may vary.
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Your flint appears to be in backwards. The fat, humped end goes in the jaws and the longer tapered end goes forward. Might yield more sparks for you.
I would take the lock off an neutralize the plate and cock then card the heck out of them with a piece of course denim to get rid of the loose rust.
A smooth surface looks better but you have to make sure the part has quit rusting.
A smooth surface looks better but you have to make sure the part has quit rusting.
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@PathfinderNC is correct.
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And @Eric Krewson is correct.
Love the look of your lock. The picture really doesn't show how it turned out. Must have been the lighting. I got the older, very minorly distressed look I was looking for. Wasn't looking to make it a beautiful work of art like you have in your picture. Did you build it from a kit?
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