Yeah, agreed; it took me more than 5 min to get satisfactory, though...
Kibler colonial
- Thread starter ¡Señor.Casualidad!
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Well I just wanted to get majority of the chips out and an oil soacked patch followed by 4 or 5 dry ones seemed to do the trick!
I wouldn't worry about chips. What makes the difference. First shot and they are blown out.
Second coat!!! Took from Tuesday night to Saturday night for the first coat to feel dry to the touch. Waited another 24hours and applied the second one, much thinner/less finnish on this coat. I'll get outside for some better pics once this coat is dry
Attachments
Looking good!
Psycho Mike
Free Cdn
Looking sharp. Are you leaving the barrel bright, browning or bluing?
Mine with the aniline dyes isn't going to be as light as I was originally aiming for, but I've found my cherry dye and the curly maple make for a really wild red with an orange tone that has grown on me. Hybrid from where I was aiming and the dark tones that a lot of folks have been doing....It's lighter than doing AF, but not as stark red as an alkanet root cherry stock either. My black first dye run really brings out the curl and highlights any incised carving, but the sanding and final dye still make it possible to see the grain (and the chatoyance is amazing). Just running a few more coats of tung oil on my final test block, then some Renaissance wax and that's give me my final yea / nay on going ahead with the stock (hopefully by then my taller rear sight will be here too and I can get mine all finished up)
I decided on French grey for my barrel to go with the bright finished lock.
Mine with the aniline dyes isn't going to be as light as I was originally aiming for, but I've found my cherry dye and the curly maple make for a really wild red with an orange tone that has grown on me. Hybrid from where I was aiming and the dark tones that a lot of folks have been doing....It's lighter than doing AF, but not as stark red as an alkanet root cherry stock either. My black first dye run really brings out the curl and highlights any incised carving, but the sanding and final dye still make it possible to see the grain (and the chatoyance is amazing). Just running a few more coats of tung oil on my final test block, then some Renaissance wax and that's give me my final yea / nay on going ahead with the stock (hopefully by then my taller rear sight will be here too and I can get mine all finished up)
I decided on French grey for my barrel to go with the bright finished lock.
My first time finishing steel so I'm gonna keep it Simple. cold blue on the barrel and may leave the lock in the white. I am going to polish the barrel to 220 or 320 grit as I'm going for an overall more polished look. How do you guys go about polishing up the lock face? Or does anyone have pictures of a blued lock face that still has its bead blasted finish?Looking sharp. Are you leaving the barrel bright, browning or bluing?
Mine with the aniline dyes isn't going to be as light as I was originally aiming for, but I've found my cherry dye and the curly maple make for a really wild red with an orange tone that has grown on me. Hybrid from where I was aiming and the dark tones that a lot of folks have been doing....It's lighter than doing AF, but not as stark red as an alkanet root cherry stock either. My black first dye run really brings out the curl and highlights any incised carving, but the sanding and final dye still make it possible to see the grain (and the chatoyance is amazing). Just running a few more coats of tung oil on my final test block, then some Renaissance wax and that's give me my final yea / nay on going ahead with the stock (hopefully by then my taller rear sight will be here too and I can get mine all finished up)
Norman Brooks
45 Cal.
I used a fine 6" flat file to get the CNC marks out, then used 320 grit wet or dry sand paper, then 400 grit. I used Oxfor Bluing which I used 4-0 steel wool to polish most of the bluing off. It's a good idea to disassemble the lock when doing this. If you don't have a spring vice, buy one.
Attachments
Psycho Mike
Free Cdn
Myself, I took mine fully apart (had to get a spring vice, but it has been worth it already)...filed all the external bits (minus the battery) to start and then used some sandpaper. Back side of the frizzen is as hard as the battery, so I wasn't going to fight that down too far, but I got the worst of the blast finish off. I'm going to leave mine bright and let it acquire a patina with time.
Similar threads
