So if I'm understanding your math correctly, a .006 smaller diameter ball to lands measurement with approximately a .009 difference in the groove measurements with a .018 patch embossed the patch pattern into the ball with acceptable accuracy. I'm thinking the .395 mold should yield balls close or just under the mold size and depending on my groove measurements I could possibly match the patch as you did, staying just under (.009) the groove measurement. Thank you for your help and I'm hoping to receive my kit tomorrow provided USPS doesn't pull another shipping trick on me. The kit was mailed on Monday (priority) and according to the tracking it has passed by my home twice so far to reach a different distribution center. Go figure. After I do a damage assessment on the contents, I'll measure the lands and grooves. Most of my gunsmithing has been on modern firearms, but when my hands became hard to control, I found it too difficult to do quality work.
That's a very nice looking crown and pretty conventional now days. The taper crown I was referring to earlier, used in muzzle loaders of colonial times, was a couple of inches in length and very gradual. The idea was to be able to push the ball deep enough with the thumb to flush it with the top of the crown, cut with a patch knife if needed, then run it home with the loading rod . They didn't seem to use a short starter much if ever at that time in history.
Well admittedly what got me to try shirt felt was the thickness , tight weave and being tighter than "Dicks hat band", hating to throw good patch material away, I gave it a try and was pleasantly surprised how well it worked.
That would be a good place to start and should reveal good results from the get go. GM barrels will usually cut patches at the beginning so I generally will lead lap mine a bit but some folks report good results with scotch bright pads to clean the burrs off the land corners.
I've been barreling rifles and hand guns for 40 years and have never run a cross a bore with zero run out............... they don't exit as far as I can see. If a barrel has a run out of less than .005 in 30 inches on a straight taper that is about as good as it gets in my opinion. It can be real close at both ends and out in the middle as can some times be seen in a barrel dial indicated through a head stock at each end and then viewed down bore at a slow RPM.
Ask Jim as he makes them ! /Ed
Very enlightening stuff.
Thank you. I finally received my molds of .380 (for my 36 Navy), .390. and an .395 so when I get time to cast a few and get my kit finished I'll report back with my findings.
Congratulations! It took me a long time to finally order mine and I found it sitting on my front porch today. I order one of the quick order kits Kibler had in a 40 cal and I feel like a kid in a candy store.
I cut all mine in my lathe but that is only square to the center of the muzzle hole. it may not be perfict to the actual bore line but will be very close. The most accurate way I know of to square a crown to line of bore is to get a piloted crowning tool. The spud that goes down bore and rides the land tops is making the cutter square to the bore line.Very enlightening stuff.
If a shooter doesn't have any of the tools you referenced, is there a way to spot an out of square muzzle? Any barrels that I have ever cut I squared them off the flats bu understanding what you posted, that may not result in a squared muzzle.
3n1
