Kibler Woodsrunner Rookie Build ?

[ShilohSharps]

Hi All,

Have a Woodsrunner kit and curious if it is important to first entirely assemble (and then disassemble) the rifle prior to starting all the finish work on the metal and stock?

Thank you

 

[Phil Coffins]

Yes, if here is any issues you want to find them before finish is started.

 

[kentuckycharliec]

Hi All,

Have a Woodsrunner kit and curious if it is important to first entirely assemble (and then disassemble) the rifle prior to starting all the finish work on the metal and stock?

Thank you

I would agree to assemble in the white. You get a better idea of things that need minor adjustments. They do come out nice.

 

[labrat]

Hello Shilo, It's good practice and you want to know that everything fits and is a complete kit. I just started my woodsrunner and it went together like a puzzle. The tang and lock areas had to be refitted a little do to the 105 degree weather we have in central Calif. and my garage being even hotter. I actually enjoyed the inletting as the kit was so easy to assemble. The wood carving will be my biggest issue to tackle. Good Luck on building your kit......John

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Install all components, make sure they work and fit. My preference is to next decorate, sand, stain and finish the stock. While finish is drying, you can clean up and polish the hardware. When polishing the hardware, I urge you to always back sandpaper with wood or something that prevents you from rounding any edges of the metal parts. I also urge you not to use any polishing wheels. They tend to dish out screw holes and round corners and produce a look that is not authentic in the least.

dave

 

[ShilohSharps]

Thank you all so much…..this is extremely helpful. The fun (and maybe some frustration) begins.

 

[Appowner]

You need to look for minor things that can be big things later. On mine the main issue was the trigger. First it was just a hair too thick for the slot in the trigger plate. The second issue with it was once installed it had no take up. At full cock you should have a bit of a wiggle to the trigger. This indicates the sere is fully engaged. Mine had none and I had to take maybe 1/16 of an inch off it to get it right. But just do NOT lop off 1/16 of an inch. Check it then remove maybe 1/64". Then check again and remove as needed. Keep it up until you have a bit of take up. I went with 1/8 inch at the trigger tip. Also had to remove a tiny bit of wood that was interfering with the action. Maybe a toothpicks width and 1/4 inch long.

And one a lot of people seem to have issues with, the last (inside) foot or so of the ramrod needs to be tapered. DO NOT BORE OUT THE HOLE! The kit includes a metal end piece for inside the stock. Taper the ramrod to fit in that. Then attach the piece to the ramrod.

I made a poor mans lathe for the tapering. I chucked the ramrod in a variable speed drill I had tied to the bench. I then supported the other end with a pillow block secured to the bench. Wrap masking tape around the rod where it fits the bearing in the pillow block. I then used a variety of rasps, sandpaper and such to taper the last foot down. Cheaper than buying the right tools.

 

[wiscoaster]

Hi All,

Have a Woodsrunner kit and curious if it is important to first entirely assemble (and then disassemble) the rifle prior to starting all the finish work on the metal and stock?

Thank you

Yes, and also realize you'll need to redo the inletting to some degree again after the finish, because it's just not possible to keep all the stain and finish out of the inlets, and any that gets in there is adding dimension and is going to have to get scraped off where it's interferring. I went to all the trouble of masking them off, and that still wasn't good enough to avoid this step.

 

[Mike in FL]

You need to look for minor things that can be big things later. On mine the main issue was the trigger. First it was just a hair too thick for the slot in the trigger plate. The second issue with it was once installed it had no take up. At full cock you should have a bit of a wiggle to the trigger. This indicates the sere is fully engaged. Mine had none and I had to take maybe 1/16 of an inch off it to get it right. But just do NOT lop off 1/16 of an inch. Check it then remove maybe 1/64". Then check again and remove as needed. Keep it up until you have a bit of take up. I went with 1/8 inch at the trigger tip. Also had to remove a tiny bit of wood that was interfering with the action. Maybe a toothpicks width and 1/4 inch long.

And one a lot of people seem to have issues with, the last (inside) foot or so of the ramrod needs to be tapered. DO NOT BORE OUT THE HOLE! The kit includes a metal end piece for inside the stock. Taper the ramrod to fit in that. Then attach the piece to the ramrod.

I made a poor mans lathe for the tapering. I chucked the ramrod in a variable speed drill I had tied to the bench. I then supported the other end with a pillow block secured to the bench. Wrap masking tape around the rod where it fits the bearing in the pillow block. I then used a variety of rasps, sandpaper and such to taper the last foot down. Cheaper than buying the right tools.

 

[Mike in FL]

I might be the only one to disagree, which likely makes me wrong. On my Kibler, I just went by Jim's videos. Fixed problems as they came up. Same with other kits I've done. Of course I didn't apply metal and stock finish until it was put together and then reassembled.