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skeaterbait

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Forgive me if I dwell too long on the modern tools for traditional equipment, I am slow to convert my ways.

Has anyone looked in to/tried a custom router bit for barrel channels. Realizing this would only be effective on straight barrels. I think I am way to new to building for swamped.
 
Skeater, This is the bit with the bearing, collar, and allen wrench, used to set the collar on the shank, I described to you and moose,
in the post on using A router to in lay A barrel.
DSCN0852.jpg

Robby
 
Hey Robby,

Is that just a 45 degree bit? Also, it looks like it's flattened at the point, or it could just be my poor eyesight teasing me.
 
I had an old 1", 90º v-groove bit that I ground down so I can cut the complete channel with one bit. Looking, I see new bits like this run ~$20. Not real difficult to do and works like a charm. Barrel inlet in less that 1/2 hour!
 
I guess the next question I have would be on jigs. The wood I have is square as far as the top and sides being adjacent but over the length of the blank is not 100% straight. These were taken from rough cut lumber. The tools I have are just not adequate to get it straight.

Since I can't rely on the table saw or router to stay true without help, what sort of jigs could be devised for this? I have been pondering for a few days now but the lightning just hasn't struck.
 
I have been a cabinet maker for better than 35 years and I have a pretty well equipped woodworking shop. Have tried to find a way to do a stock with power tools but at some point you still have to use hand tools. At least my feeble brain can't come up with a way. Another thing I found out is traditional woodworking, like cabinet making, does not transfer well to gun stock making. At least for me it hasn't.
If you have a good router plowing out the barrel channel is no problem. The fact your stock material is square makes it easier. This is the start of my latest project.

IMG_2144.jpg
 
You are correct in that there are previous posts that have addressed this topic.
 
Why not find a wood shop with a decent planer, and have them plane at least one of the sides straight? Then you can use your router without all the jigs, which would almost have to be specially made for that particular stock with that particular curve in that location on the forestock!

Obviously, if you have straight edges (metal strips) that can be clamped to the top of the barrel stock flats, you can use them as a guide to cut a straight barrel mortise with your router.

I don't think anyone can give you a 100% sure answer as to which way to go without looking at the grain of the wood, and at that curve, to see how bad it is. Sorry. :(

Sometimes, wood with curves can be steamed and compressed under pressure enough to straighten a blank out, but that is also a lot of work, and a lot of expensive time involved. Boat builders are the experts at steaming and bending wood, along with some furniture makers. :hmm: :surrender: :thumbsup:
 
Thanks Paul, as a bowyer I am familiar with steam bending but it never occurred to me about trying on 2" stock.

You do make a good point about stock being different from piece to piece.

All the input has given me some ideas for a sled for the router table, many thanks to all.

For all those who tire of repeated question I apoligize. I will be sure not to ask any questions that have been posed before.
 
No need for apologies, to me, anyway. Where in KC are you? We can't be too far apart.
I don't like doing it on my router table because you can't see what is going on.
 
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