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knapping flint
- Thread starter SRV
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Pressure flaking and the notched rod both work, I get better results with the rod myself. I don't hit it with a hammer, just use the handle of my patch knife. Don't hit very hard either. Just work the rod across the edge about 1/8" at a time.
Sometimes gives the edge a seriated look but straightens out in a few shots. Some use the back face of the pan cover to pressure flake the whole edge but I haven't had a lot of success trying that.
Jon
Sometimes gives the edge a seriated look but straightens out in a few shots. Some use the back face of the pan cover to pressure flake the whole edge but I haven't had a lot of success trying that.
Jon
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Paul V will most likely read this post and can explain his method of knaping with the frizzen. Once practiced, it has worked well for me.
Ketchakah
40 Cal.
I have never had great success in knapping flints. I could get an edge on one if it went dull and wouldent fire, But it wasent a good one.
I reciently broke down and tried one of the little brass knapping hammers. It worked really really good.
I reciently broke down and tried one of the little brass knapping hammers. It worked really really good.
BadHorse
45 Cal.
yeah shawnee mike that was my hammer, im a cheap SOB so i got at least decent at it! what i do is put my left index finger uneder the flint edge for support, and then strike with the little "brass hammer". so far ive had very good results with this method.
paulvallandigham
Passed On
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With the gun cradled in your left arm, empty, lift the frizzen up from the closed position, with the inside of your left thumb. With your right hand, pull the hammer back away from the frizzen, and then lower it so that you can locate the position where the front edge of the flint( the part you want sharpened) will touch the HEEL( lowest portion of the face of the frizzen).
Now, hold the frizzen in that position, making sure that your thumb is back away from the face of the frizzen, so you don't cut your thumb with the flint.
Then Cock the hammer back and pull the trigger. The flint's edge will strike the heel at a much steeper angle than it normally strikes the frizzen, and that steep angle will Knapp off a bit of the edge. It will also take a SPAWL off the underside of the flint's edge, narrowing the angle of the edge of the flint, and giving you a new, sharp flint across the entire width of the frizzen.
Check the cock screw to make sure its still tight, and then make sure the flint's edge is still close enough to the frizzen, when its closed, that the edge will strike the frizzen 2/3 of the distance UP from the bottom of the face of the frizzen, and at a 60 degree angle to the POI. ( use a protractor to measure the angle of IMPACT of the flint to the frizzen, using the bottom of the flint as the base line, the POI the centerpoint, and a line from the center point to the top of the face of the frizzen to determine that Angle of Impact. )
Most flint locks work best with the bevel on the flint on the upside of the flint as you look down on the cock. However, some European made locks have the geometry wrong, like the Lyman, so that the cock is Not TALL enough to all the flint to impact high enough on the frizzen to give the correct AOI.
With those locks, you either change the cock, or shim up the flints in the jaws, or turn the flint over so that the Bevel side of the flint is on the bottom of the flint, as you look down at the cock. Do what you have to do to get the Angle of Impact( AOI) correct. Then tune the lock so that the flint scrapes metal from the frizzen, rather than gouging steel, and breaking off large pieces of flint. Flints are expensive, and a properly tuned lock will give you 80-120 strikes per flint.
If you have question, please just send me a PT. I have discussed this process ad nauseum on the forum, and have an article about shooting and tuning flintlocks on the forum. I am more than happy to help you find success in shooting your flintlock, but most problems arise from specific locks, and not flintlocks in general. :thumbsup:
Now, hold the frizzen in that position, making sure that your thumb is back away from the face of the frizzen, so you don't cut your thumb with the flint.
Then Cock the hammer back and pull the trigger. The flint's edge will strike the heel at a much steeper angle than it normally strikes the frizzen, and that steep angle will Knapp off a bit of the edge. It will also take a SPAWL off the underside of the flint's edge, narrowing the angle of the edge of the flint, and giving you a new, sharp flint across the entire width of the frizzen.
Check the cock screw to make sure its still tight, and then make sure the flint's edge is still close enough to the frizzen, when its closed, that the edge will strike the frizzen 2/3 of the distance UP from the bottom of the face of the frizzen, and at a 60 degree angle to the POI. ( use a protractor to measure the angle of IMPACT of the flint to the frizzen, using the bottom of the flint as the base line, the POI the centerpoint, and a line from the center point to the top of the face of the frizzen to determine that Angle of Impact. )
Most flint locks work best with the bevel on the flint on the upside of the flint as you look down on the cock. However, some European made locks have the geometry wrong, like the Lyman, so that the cock is Not TALL enough to all the flint to impact high enough on the frizzen to give the correct AOI.
With those locks, you either change the cock, or shim up the flints in the jaws, or turn the flint over so that the Bevel side of the flint is on the bottom of the flint, as you look down at the cock. Do what you have to do to get the Angle of Impact( AOI) correct. Then tune the lock so that the flint scrapes metal from the frizzen, rather than gouging steel, and breaking off large pieces of flint. Flints are expensive, and a properly tuned lock will give you 80-120 strikes per flint.
If you have question, please just send me a PT. I have discussed this process ad nauseum on the forum, and have an article about shooting and tuning flintlocks on the forum. I am more than happy to help you find success in shooting your flintlock, but most problems arise from specific locks, and not flintlocks in general. :thumbsup:
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I agree with Ozark. Paul's method works very well. I've been shooting since the '70's, and it's the easiest and best technique I've ever used.
:thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
I learned by using one of the tools described, and then one day tried just tapping the edge of the flint, while it was in the cock, with the back edge of my patch knife, it worked, so that's how I do it...all of the other descriptions will work too...Hank
How many strikes on a flint? I get 50 to 100 on my TC Hawken. I was only getting 10 on my Lyman GPR until I undertook redesigning the lock. I shot it 25 times yeaterday and saw very little flint ware. I believe it will do as well as my TCs do.
ohio ramrod
75 Cal.
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I've been shooting percusions four about fity years,and have owned flinters for over twenty years. It is my true belief that the flint spirits bless some shooters but curse others. And I am one of the cursed!
"Flint spirits"... a very unique way of putting it, Ohio Ramrod. :wink:
I have days when I think those very same "Spirits" are NOT "smiling" on me, but then I find a way to overcome the problem I'm having... and the "spirits" smile on me once again.
I believe it simply takes TIME... and a lot of shooting with thought and close observation behind each shot to finally overcome the "problems" shooting flintlocks tend to create.
The process is like a long journey... and as the Chinese proverb sez, "The long journey begins with the first step." :wink:
Strength & Honor...
Ron T.
I have days when I think those very same "Spirits" are NOT "smiling" on me, but then I find a way to overcome the problem I'm having... and the "spirits" smile on me once again.
I believe it simply takes TIME... and a lot of shooting with thought and close observation behind each shot to finally overcome the "problems" shooting flintlocks tend to create.
The process is like a long journey... and as the Chinese proverb sez, "The long journey begins with the first step." :wink:
Strength & Honor...
Ron T.
SRV......Hank has the right idea, resharpening a flint is not rocket science. I put the hammer at half cock and generally holding the unloaded gun under my left arm, being right handed, I put my left index finger under the edge of the flint. I then use the back of a small knife and tap the edge gently, flaking off small pieces of the flint along the edge. I also place my flint to point toward the center of the pan when the cock is down. If the geometry of the lock is correct, this setting will result in quick reliable ignition with less wear and tear on your flint. Also, when you prime the pan don't fill it up with powder. I fill about 1/2 full and upon closing the frizzen, tap the powder to the outside of the pan. When the primer is lit, the flame will jump across the pan for a much quicker ignition......Frank
Earle Varney
32 Cal.
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Thanks for the info fellas, was just talking about this with a friend of mine. I didn't think I was doing bad with 60plus shots on a flint but will definitely try knapping a little more now :thumbsup:
Photo for illustration of rod angle only.
When actually knapping a flint I'm supporting the hammer with left hand forefinger under the lower jaw.
Just 4-5 very light "downward" pecks at the angle shown of the brass rod...from left to right across the top of the flints edge to get tiny scallops to flake off the bottom.
Strength wise, just imagine trying to crack the shell of an egg without actually breaking it open...just a few light peck, peck, peck actions.
When actually knapping a flint I'm supporting the hammer with left hand forefinger under the lower jaw.
Just 4-5 very light "downward" pecks at the angle shown of the brass rod...from left to right across the top of the flints edge to get tiny scallops to flake off the bottom.
Strength wise, just imagine trying to crack the shell of an egg without actually breaking it open...just a few light peck, peck, peck actions.
paulvallandigham
Passed On
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YOu can knapp your flint even easier, if you simply leave the flint in the cock. With the gun EMPTY, cradle the gun in your left arm. cock the hammer back to the half cock notch, temporarily, while you close, then lift the frizzen up from the pan with the inside of your left thumb, next to the nail. Hold your thumb back from the face of the frizzen. As you lift the frizzen slowly, release the hammer from the half cock notch with your right hand, and trigger finger, and lower it until the edge of the flint will Strike the heel of the face of the frizen( Look at a frizzen as if it were a human foot and lower leg). Now, hold the frizzen at that spot, cock the hammer to full cock, and pull the trigger. The flint's edge will strike the heel at a very steep ANGLE, chipping off a thin sliver of flint across the width of the frizzen, and knock of a spall from the bottom side of the flint to leave you a sharp flint, with a narrow bevel on the bottom side of the edge.
You now have an edge that is Square to the frizzen, and is SHARP all the way across, like the edge of a straight razor, rather than a series of sharp teeth like a saw. The Saw teeth is what you get using any king of knapping hammer or knapping steel. It does NOT do good things to the face of your frizzen.
Doing it my way will rid you of any need to own a knapping hammer. It also saves your thumb from the missed blows that inevitably occur and bang either your thumb, or the side of an index finger held under the flint edge to make sure you are striking the edge at the correct angle. :thumbsup:
You now have an edge that is Square to the frizzen, and is SHARP all the way across, like the edge of a straight razor, rather than a series of sharp teeth like a saw. The Saw teeth is what you get using any king of knapping hammer or knapping steel. It does NOT do good things to the face of your frizzen.
Doing it my way will rid you of any need to own a knapping hammer. It also saves your thumb from the missed blows that inevitably occur and bang either your thumb, or the side of an index finger held under the flint edge to make sure you are striking the edge at the correct angle. :thumbsup:
