knapping flint

[Zonie]

Well Paul, because my early Lancaster with a Large Siler lock on it was handy I decided to try your method of flint knapping. It worked well ! :grin:

Correct me if I am wrong but after reading your method and trying it I came up with another way of describing the procedure. As I say, correct me if I'm wrong.

1. Position the rifle in your lap with the lock facing up, cock (hammer) down.

2. Lower the frizzen until it contacts the top of the flint.

3. With one thumb controlling the frizzens position, slowly raise the cock, watching the flint tip location. As the tip of the flint starts to rise just above the pan cover (the underside of the frizzen), lower the frizzen just enough to 'catch' the tip of the flint on the lowest end of the frizzen face.

4. Placing your frizzen thumb on the barrel side of the frizzen out at the tip, hold the frizzen in this location.

5. Bring the cock back to the full cocked position.

6. Check to make sure no part of the fingers on your frizzen hand are ahead of the frizzen or anywhere near the frizzen spring.

7. Pull the trigger.

Doing this, the flint will hit the very bottom of the frizzen face (the heel) knocking the frizzen forward and chipping off small fragments of flint leaving a straight razor sharp edge.

WARNING: WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN DOING THIS. FLYING PIECES OF FLINT WILL RESULT FROM USING THIS METHOD OF FLINT KNAPPING.

Just to make sure that my description works, I got out my "plain" .54 cal rifle and followed my instructions.

It worked on this gun too but then again, I knew what I wrote was saying. Hopefully the rest of you will understand too.

 

[hanshi]

Photo for illustration of rod angle only.
When actually knapping a flint I'm supporting the hammer with left hand forefinger under the lower jaw.

Just 4-5 very light "downward" pecks at the angle shown of the brass rod...from left to right across the top of the flints edge to get tiny scallops to flake off the bottom.

Strength wise, just imagine trying to crack the shell of an egg without actually breaking it open...just a few light peck, peck, peck actions.

Just to make sure I got this right, the correct strike is from the cock TOWARD the flint's cutting edge and not angled on the flint edge TOWARD the hammer? Bear with me, please, my wife says I have a spacial dysfunction. Have I been doing this backwards (backerds, in Southern speak).

 

[roundball]

Just to make sure I got this right, the correct strike is from the cock TOWARD the flint's cutting edge and not angled on the flint edge TOWARD the hammer? Bear with me, please, my wife says I have a spacial dysfunction. Have I been doing this backwards (backerds, in Southern speak).

Better listen to your wife :grin:

 

[Gotspark]

I tried this method as well,and it worked very well the first time. Came out square,and sharp all the way across the flint. Like a brand new flint.

 

[paulvallandigham]

To Zonie, and Gotspark: You both are doing it 'right" because its all about the end result. I do Not lower my frizzen down ON TOP OF THE FLINT. Instead, I raise the cock up to the half cock notch, so that I can close the frizzen.

I cradle my gun in my non-dominant arm, just as I would in carrying the gun in the field. The Barrel points over your left elbow, and the barrel is tucked into the bend at the elbow. The left hand is positioned around the action so that your left thumb is used to Lift the closed frizzen up from the top of the pan. I use the inside edge of my thumb, next to the nail. I keep my thumb back from the face of the frizzen, by lifting the frizzen where it closes over the pan, not out further towards the cock where the face of the frizzen is located.

Jim, I can see how you can carry the gun in your lap, and then move the frizzen with fingertips, but that seems to be a very awkward way of doing this, IMHO.


I HOLD the frizzen open at the point where the edge of my flint, when I release the hammer, and lower it manually( using my right thumb to hold the cock) strikes that lower 1/4" of the heel. You will notice that the junction of that elbow at the base of the face of the frizzen is rather thick. USE IT.

Holding the frizzen in the correct position, cock the hammer back to full cock, and then fire the gun.

You are correct in advising anyone shooting any flintlock to wear Eye protection, as shards of flint can, AND DO, fly everywhere. Normally, you will not be stabbed or injured by these shards, but getting one of them in an eye is a very serious injury. WEAR EYE PROTECTION whenever you handle and fire a flintlock. :hmm: :v

The last thing every shooter should do is check the spacing between the edge of the flint, and the face of the frizzen when the cock is in its half cock position, and the frizzen is closed. Since locks vary, there is NO ONE accepted distance for how far the edge needs to be from the face to get good ignition, and pop that frizzen open timely to throw the sparks down into the flash pan.

WHERE that flint needs to be positioned is for the shooter to determine, using an empty gun, and holding it out in front of the shooter, so that the shooter can watch where the sparks land after he fires the gun( releases the tumbler by pulling the trigger, with the hammer at full cock, and the frizzen closed on an empty pan, and with the barrel empty.) As flints are worn down, through shooting, or by knapping, either method, the Gap between the edge of the flint and the face of the frizzen increases, until the flint begins to strike the frizzen TOO LOW, and fails to pop the frizzen open on contact. The sparks, when observed from the side of the gun, begin to strike behind, or SHORT of the pan, causing hang fires, and misfires.

MOVE THE FLINT FORWARD IN THE JAWS of the lock, and put a twig wedge behind the flint wrap to hold the flint in the new position.

 

[jaw69]

Very good it just worked great nice sharp edge I learn something useful every day Thank for the tip :thumbsup:

 

[daperdon69]

Sounds like a great way to knap your flint when the gun is unloaded. I'll have to try it. BUT. When my rock needs a knap it's always when its loaded. I dont want anything around that rock that will create a spark! So I use a piece or brass or antler to knap it useing the tapping or preasure method. Like I said, have to give it a try when the gun isnt loaded. :thumbsup:


Tradegunner

 

[Billnpatti]

Paul,

After having met you at Friendship and talking with you as well as reading your many postings on The Forum, I have gained a very high respect for your opinions and advice. I place the value of your advice right along that of Dutch Schuoltz. I have never heard of this method of knapping a gun flint even though I have been building and shooting muzzleloaders for over 40 years. Even though I have never heard of anyone else doing this, the fact that YOU do it and recommend it is sufficient reason for me to learn the technique, practice it and use it in the future. Thanks for teaching me something new. :hatsoff:

BTW, do you plan to be coming to Friendship for the Spring Shoot? I'd love to cross paths with you again. Maybe we could break bread together again as we did last time and, if you are up to it, maybe we could shoot a bit together. :thumbsup:

Bill

 

[Claude Mathis]

This works! And it is very easy and fast.

I do the same thing Roundball does, except I use the back of my knife blade. (being anti-gadget, I carry no special knapping tools :wink: )

 

[roundball]

Yes, its so fast and simple...wasn't my idea of course, just how I learned it...I only substituted a brass rod because it was easier for my big hands to operate than those tiny little brass knapping hammers.

Noting some references in this thread to using the frizzen against the flint as if that's something new...that may be new to those who just heard of it but its not a new idea at all...been around for years and years like most everything else about muzzleloading.

I never bother knapping while hunting as I only take a shot or two while I'm out...and at the range, with a brass rod laying right there it only takes 5 seconds...peck, peck, peck, peck...and no change of an accidental discharge or snapping off more flint edge than necessary, etc.

 

[paulvallandigham]

May I suggest an alternative approach???

remove the PRIME from the flash pan, and then put a feather, or toothpick( I carry the latter in my hunting bag)into the TH to block any spark from entering the barrel. The Toothpick will prevent the frizzen from fully closing, but I don't need it closed when I am knapping my flint in the jaws, as described. To block the TH, you can use tape, or a bent paper clip, or even a piece of wood chip, or shaving to block the Vent. It doesn't have to be "fancy" to make for use in the woods during a hunt.

Always remember to point the muzzle of your gun in a safe direction when handling Any Loaded gun. If you have an UNINTENDED Discharge, the only possibly consequences may be soiled underwear- but no one will be bleeding! :hatsoff:

 

[Ketchakah]

I really like Pauls method,
but have not been able to get it to work as yet. Ill keep tring. :grin:

 

I really like Pauls method,
but have not been able to get it to work as yet.

If you can't make it work, what do you like about it? (Sorry, but you have to admit, that's funny) :wink:

 

[paulvallandigham]

Mike: Send me a PT and tell me what is not "working". I will try to help you through it.

Paul

 

[Gotspark]

Paul,

reading your many postings on The Forum, I have gained a very high respect for your opinions and advice. I place the value of your advice right along that of Dutch Schuoltz.


Bill

Agreed,It seems whenever I do a search for info on here Pauls name is in there with the best responses. :hatsoff:

 

[rich pierce]

The simplest method for me is to use a short bolt, like a 3/8" diameter and 1.5" long, and use the threaded portion to slash across the edge diagonally. Each thread gives a small and controlled knapping blow to the edge. No risk of breaking the flint or taking too much off.

 

[Fishhog]

I do the same as Rich when the flint is in a lock ..But use a piece of solid copper grounding wire 3/16, file some shallow horizontal grooves in it..Copper is so much nicer to use on flint seems soft enough to really get a sticky bite on the flint..Off the gun I use a 6 inch 1/2 dowel rod insert a short 2 1/2 pice of copper rod halfway in the end of the dowel secured with a screw to remove to resharpen the tip.I shape the pointed rounded point using a med coarse file to get the side ways grooves.Lay the flint on a piece of oak barely over the edge and use the tool to lever off contolled flakes while holding it with the off hand..Works great and you can keep flipping sides to shorten or reshape a flint..Be suprised how easy it works copper is the key.. If I get a chance later tonight I will put a pic up of it in action if anyone is interested..Ray