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jcmcclure

36 Cal.
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I have been on the sight for several years and have worked on the forge off and on 2004 when I was early in reenacting and still in high school. In this time I have never posted any pics or asked for criticism, but I'm finally getting over my fear and asking for critiques and advice.

This blade started life as a Nicholson file and the haft is obvious a deer antler crown. In my learning to use the forge I never had a teacher, but I relied heavily on youtube and this forum for direction. It is an unfinished project, but want you thoughts before continuing on.

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You're off to a very good start, but I would strongly suggest using 1080/85 for the steel when you make another. It is much more forgiving in the heat treat. You're blade looks very typical for an early type smith made. Be sure and post photos when it is finished.
 
I Like it! :thumbsup: Nice clean design that was typical of a well made knife that would serve the user well. How long is the blade? Any ideas on a sheath yet? AnD would definitely like to see pictures as it comes along.
 
Thanks for the advice Wick; I admire your work a lot. When I started on the forge I just used what was cheap and accessible because I made lots of boo boos lol. Would you mind to recommend an online location for 1080/1085.
 
Thanks......I have a good ways to go and have no sheath or leather making experience, but now is a good time to learn lol.
 
Go here. He has 1084, and others. You may also find that carbon rage of steels at Admiral Steel. Whatever you do, stay away from 1095, and others of more than .85 carbon, until you get more experience in heat treating. A carbon range of simple steels between .75 and .85 will make very good blades that will respond well to simple heat treating.
http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/1084hc/
 
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I did not see any 1084 listed on Admiral Steel's web sight just now but if you can't find any I have some "as rolled" 1084 that I purchased from Admiral Steel a while back. I can sell you some if you want to try it. The size I have is 1/4" X 1" as for the length let me know what lenght you want to play with to see if you like it. The small flat rate USPS box measures 1-1/4" X 5" X 8" and will cost about $6.00 (rounded up) to ship. Let me know :v . This steel also makes fine flat springs.
 
When I get home from work I will try to take a few pics. It is nothing special just a turn of the 20th century portable forge and crank blower that would have been seen on a local farm for small projects. It is small, but does a good job for what I use it for.
 
Jim May I suggest on your next blade you off set the tang a little bit (1/4) or less as it will put the antler and spine of the blade in line and not effect the strenght of the handle .But if thats the look you want thats fine too. Curt
 
I agree that, that is a very good suggestion, if concerning more modern knives, but the type/position of his tang matches some of the relic blades attributed to the 18th c. and early 19th c. Faster and easier to prepare the blade for a hammer on simple utilitarian grip. It also has the benefit of leaving more blade heel below the grip to help in preventing the hand from slipping down on the edge.
 
I am not a knife maker nor a knife collector but I am a knife user and admirer. I know nice work when I see it and you are doing a darned nice job on that knife. When it is finished, anyone would be proud to carry and use it. :thumbsup:
 
What are your plans on the front end of the antler? Are you going to have a pewter cap or guard?
 
I have been considering pewter...it will be my first time pouring it as a bolster, so it will be a new experience.
 
Does the heat of the pewter impact the antler- antler melts if hot enough. Just wondering. I've seen a "washer" type guard that just fits over the end of the antler but I don't know if it is pc.
 
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