• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Kuntz Lehigh complete

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Col. Batguano

75 Cal.
Joined
Feb 10, 2011
Messages
5,039
Reaction score
1,424
KL 2a Left overall length.jpg
KL 3a left back half.jpg
kl 7a lock area.jpg
kl 8a left lock area.jpg
KL 11 top tang area.jpg
KL 13 bottom view back half.jpg
kl 9a entry pipe right.jpg
KL 18 Muzzle cap left.jpg
kl 14a toe plate.jpg
kl1aa right full length.jpg
It is based on a Lehigh made by Jacob Kuntz earlier in his career and highlighted on the KRA disc # 10, item # 5. The original is a well known gun, and sold on the James D Julia auction site in 2015 for $55,000. Where detailed pictures were not available of the original (such as the toe plate) , I used other photos of Kuntz’ other work. In some places I deviated from what Kuntz is known to have done (such as the tang and wrist carvings and some of the engraving) I based the shapes on what Kuntz did, and then tried to enhance the detail to make them fancier. And in just a few things, I deviated entirely from what Kuntz did (Double action single set trigger, wedge keys vs pins). And some things I just did because I could, (lock bolt head engraving).

Off and on, the whole thing was about a 2 year process. I won’t bore you with the challenges or difficulties (there were many), but most of them were self-induced. Some of the deviations from what would be dead on correct architecture were a function of the limitations in the components as they were received and able to be modified (such as the deepening of the TG bow to accommodate the forward setting swing of the DASST). Many of the modifications I think were just more trouble than they ultimately will be worth, but it’s all a learning process. Other modifications were necessary to accommodate the very slender A Weight barrel and make it “balanced” looking (such as thinning the lock bolster).

Here then is a breakdown of the components;
Stock Exhibition Grade Sugar maple from Dunlap’s, shaped from a blank
Barrel FCI / Charles Burton 48” A-weight 38 caliber
Lock Chambers Large Siler
Trigger L&R Double Action single set trigger
Trigger guard Reeves Goering # 34
Butt plate Reeves Goering # 17
Estrucheons & Thumb Piece .040” Nickel Silver
Cheek star .050” Sterling Silver
Nails for star & plates Sterling silver earring stud pins
Muzzle Cap .040” sheet brass closed end
Stain Ferric Nitrate crystals diluted 5:1 in water, neutralized with Lye. Over-washed with Old Town “Lehigh Red" stain
Finish Tried & True Varnish Oil, about 6-7 coats
Metal finish Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue cold bluing rubbed back to gray with 4-0 steel wool. 6-7-8 times, not sure how many really.

From my perspective, there are many things that are "wrong" with it from an architectural point of view. Of course, carving and engraving can ALWAYS bear some improvement, but here's my list;
The nose of the comb is too far aft, Limitations in the blank forced this
The wrist is still too low, top line should be higher. Again this was caused by the very tight limitations regarding the blank
Trigger guard bow too deep. Caused by accomodating the DASST forward swing to set it.
Cheek star too big. I looked at the pictures on the disc but didn't take in to account the angle they were shot at.
Front foot of trigger guard too long and too wide, It should cover 40% of the overall width and this covers about 60%. Stupid mistake caused by rushing rather than stopping and thinking.
Carving tops should be lighter. Perhaps I can re-visit this to let them be better highlighted.
 
Last edited:
Looks like it would walk up the ridges here in Virginia in the highest of style.

Pete Davis in Virginia
 
Thank you.
Pins are certainly a LOT less work to build in the first place than wedges. But wedges are certainly handier to have in there for removing the barrel, and I like to pull the barrel each time I clean it. If you were building for resale though, I don't think you really ever get paid enough extra for the additional time and hassle to do keys vs pins. This was my first time doing them, so I learned a lot (mostly what NOT to do in installing them).
 
YOU CAN LIST WHAT YOU REGARD AS YOUR SGORTCOMINGS TILL TIME RUNS OUT BUT WHAT YOU HAVE CREATED IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WORK OF ART I HAVE EVER WITNESSED. IT ALMOST BRINGS TEARS TO MY EYES.. THE INCREDIBLE 48 INCH BARREL BRINGS ON ITS OWN PROBLEMS.
HOW WOULD YOU LOAD IT? WOULD YOU HAVE TO STAND ON A CHAIR. I WENT THROUGH THE MUSE´E DE'L ARMEE (SP?) IN PARIS AND SAW NOTHING TO COMPARE WITH YOUR CREATION.

THE GERMAN WORD FOR WORKS OF ART IS KUNST GEWERBE. MAKES ME WONDER ABOUT THE ORIGINAL RIFLES CREATER.
Dutch Schoultz



View attachment 783 View attachment 785 View attachment 786 View attachment 787 View attachment 788 View attachment 789 View attachment 790 View attachment 791 View attachment 792 View attachment 794 It is based on a Lehigh made by Jacob Kuntz earlier in his career and highlighted on the KRA disc # 10, item # 5. The original is a well known gun, and sold on the James D Julia auction site in 2015 for $55,000. Where detailed pictures were not available of the original (such as the toe plate) , I used other photos of Kuntz’ other work. In some places I deviated from what Kuntz is known to have done (such as the tang and wrist carvings and some of the engraving) I based the shapes on what Kuntz did, and then tried to enhance the detail to make them fancier. And in just a few things, I deviated entirely from what Kuntz did (Double action single set trigger, wedge keys vs pins). And some things I just did because I could, (lock bolt head engraving).

Off and on, the whole thing was about a 2 year process. I won’t bore you with the challenges or difficulties (there were many), but most of them were self-induced. Some of the deviations from what would be dead on correct architecture were a function of the limitations in the components as they were received and able to be modified (such as the deepening of the TG bow to accommodate the forward setting swing of the DASST). Many of the modifications I think were just more trouble than they ultimately will be worth, but it’s all a learning process. Other modifications were necessary to accommodate the very slender A Weight barrel and make it “balanced” looking (such as thinning the lock bolster).

Here then is a breakdown of the components;
Stock Exhibition Grade Sugar maple from Dunlap’s, shaped from a blank
Barrel FCI / Charles Burton 48” A-weight 38 caliber
Lock Chambers Large Siler
Trigger L&R Double Action single set trigger
Trigger guard Reeves Goering # 34
Butt plate Reeves Goering # 17
Estrucheons & Thumb Piece .040” Nickel Silver
Cheek star .050” Sterling Silver
Nails for star & plates Sterling silver earring stud pins
Muzzle Cap .040” sheet brass closed end
Stain Ferric Nitrate crystals diluted 5:1 in water, neutralized with Lye. Over-washed with Old Town “Lehigh Red" stain
Finish Tried & True Varnish Oil, about 6-7 coats
Metal finish Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue cold bluing rubbed back to gray with 4-0 steel wool. 6-7-8 times, not sure how many really.

From my perspective, there are many things that are "wrong" with it from an architectural point of view. Of course, carving and engraving can ALWAYS bear some improvement, but here's my list;
The nose of the comb is too far aft, Limitations in the blank forced this
The wrist is still too low, top line should be higher. Again this was caused by the very tight limitations regarding the blank
Trigger guard bow too deep. Caused by accomodating the DASST forward swing to set it.
Cheek star too big. I looked at the pictures on the disc but didn't take in to account the angle they were shot at.
Front foot of trigger guard too long and too wide, It should cover 40% of the overall width and this covers about 60%. Stupid mistake caused by rushing rather than stopping and thinking.
Carving tops should be lighter. Perhaps I can re-visit this to let them be better highlighted.
 
Thank you Dutch. That truly means a lot to me coming from you.

It comes right up to about eye level on me when standing straight up. Yeah, overhead ceilings and clearance are an issue. To load it I stand it upright for the powder, ball, and short starter part, and lean it over at about a 45 degree angle for the start of the RR part, and up straight again for the final tamp down seating the ball. It's actually less awkward and hassle than you'd think it would be.
 
Wow. I'm dumbfounded, that is spectacular, I can't truly find the words to express how much I like that rifle.
Boy would I like to take her out squirrel or coyote hunting. Of course it would be hard to watch for game as one would have to stop admiring that rifle.
 
Dave:

Congratulations again on finishing this rifle. It is one gorgeous piece of work.

Rick
 
Back
Top