L&R lock issue

[87TT]

I built an SMR rifle with an L&R Durs Egg lock. This was a new thing for me as I only built a couple of cheap kits back in the 70's and then got out of the ML thing for a few years (30+). Anyway, the only flint lock I ever worked on/ handled was that old CVA. When I disassembled the L&R, I didn't see which way the fly came out and put it in upside down when I put it together. When testing it. it caused a slight gouge in the lock plate and damaged the sear tip. I polished out the gouge as best I could and replaced the sear. I received the correct fly position from L&R and re assembled it. It all works fine and the set triggers work great.
Now to my issue. I have had the rifle to the range twice and it shoots great. Better than me anyway. Today the set trigger stopped working after about ten shots. It would set and then the hammer would only go to half ****. I took the lock out and finally found that the screw that the sear swivels on and holds the bridal was just a little loose. When I snugged it up, it worked fine again. I noticed when I had re assembled it before that if I got it too tight, it would make the sear too tight to move freely. Do I need to just check it now and then or maybe a drop of locktite?

 

[BruceHH]

You should not have any continued problem. Tighten all the other bridle screws and as you have found, make sure the sear screw is snug enough but still allows the sear to move. I am taking a guess that what happened is that with that screw loose, your bridle was at least a little loose on the back side and that was allowing the fly to bind causing your issue. There are some other things that could have contributed to your cocking problem, but my experience is they routinely revolve around the fly falling out of its track and causing the binding.

If that is not the issue, then your trigger is probably the culprit. I am not sure which trigger you have, but there a couple of adjustments on any of them that could cause the same problem. Basically it comes down to usually your rear set trigger is a little to high and it is contacting the sear bar before you reach full **** - thereby preventing the sear from being able to engage the tumbler at full ****. Besides your initial trigger settings/adjustments, dirt, stock swelling, trigger plate screw(s) tightness can all contribute and cause that same issue. Without engaging the set trigger, **** the rifle and make sure you still have a little play with both triggers before they engage the sear bar. Either upper trigger bar can be too tall, the main spring can have too much tension on the rear trigger and that little hatefull screw between the two triggers can be adjusted inward too far.

Hope this helps.

 

[87TT]

Thanks Bruce. I talked to a friend who is way more experienced with flintlocks than me. It seems the Durs Egg lock is different than what he has or has seen and that's a lot. The bridal has two screws. One of which is the sear screw and holds the bottom? of the bridal. For the fly to work with the sear. it has to be tight but if too tight, it binds the sear.

 

[87TT]

I guess my only thought was maybe some locktite on the screw threads to keep it snug and not loosen up. As long as it's snug, it works as it should. I'm thinking recoil/vibration and working of the sear is loosening it.
On a happy note, I love shooting this thing. I haven't shot open sights much except pistol in a long time but this is great.
50 yards benched

50 yards offhand

 

[EC121]

This is more common on a 2 screw bridle. The sear screw on a properly made lock should bottom out on the threads just as it hits the bridle. I have occasionally ground a bit off the bridle or countersunk the hole to let the screw bottom out. The easy fix is to use a tiny bit of removable thread locker to stop the screw from moving and just snug it up to the bridle without clamping the sear.

 

[87TT]

That's what I was thinking and did. I think that what happened was when I "polished" the plate to smooth it out, it made the gap longer so the screw doesn't quite bottom out. When I cleamed it after shootring last night I put just a slight drop of locktite on the threads before I snugged it.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Don’t need locktite. You’ll want to remove it to clean it.
You need a screw with the right length threads. This should have been done right when it was made.
You can either send it back to L&R, or go about fixing the sear pivot screw. Chuck it up in a drill and carefully file metal off the back of the screw head till it bottoms out On the plate. Sear will then rotate freely, and won’t back out your screw. Problem solved.

 

[87TT]

Or as I may end up doing, buy a new lock plate that I haven't screwed up and thinned out. Right now I have a tiny drop of locktite on two or three threads for now. The issue was created by me polishing out the gouge from the fly and thinning the lock plate..

 

[Flintandsteel]

if you get anew plate, you’ll probably find the same issue with the screw. Fix it now, and save the problems of a new plate.

 

[Tom Compton]

Shorten the screw. Put a nut on the screw (use to straighten the threads). Use whatever tool you choose and take one thread off the length. If that’s not enough, repeat.

 

[87TT]

The problem is the lock plate is now too thin it that area from me polishing out the gouge with a diamond stone so that now it isn't level. I sure now that the screw is the right length. With a new lock plate, I can get the parts back to the correct position and level the tumbler. Although it functions now it is still not as designed and I think the tumbler may eventually wear down from being off.