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L & R replacement locks for Lyman flint lock Great Plains rifle
- Thread starter stevew
- Start date
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erhunter
45 Cal.
I did an RPL-5 on my Lyman Trade Rifle and it wasn't that difficult. Took maybe a half hour and take your time. Like many on this forum say, it's easier to go slow taking wood off than trying to put it back. If you have even entry level wood skills this shouldn't be a problem. The next thing I suggest is sending your lock to Cabin Creek Muzzleloaders to Brad or Shane Emig before you put it in. They did a fantastic tuning on my flinter lock.
I did my GPR right out of the box. I also put in the Davis triggers. I had Jack Brooks do mine and he also tuned the lock and case hardened the lock. I will get a picture up later today. The lock works great and is fast. I also changed out the touch hole liner for an RMC touch hole liner.
USED them on the thompson centers..Takes some dremel tool time to make them fit..they are great..both cap and flint
Rock Home Isle
54 Cal.
I’m looking forward to the images…
Rock Home Isle
54 Cal.
Is it just me? I’m more inclined to file the lock to fit the stock, rather than remove wood from the stock…
In my experience the L&R RPL is a performance upgrade to the Lyman/Investarms flintlock. I’ve installed a few in Lyman rifles and found them to be somewhat of a PIA to install, not exactly a drop in replacement. Lockplate geometry doesn’t match Lyman factory mortice very well (too large in some areas, too small in others) plus it’s a crapshoot if it will line up with factory touchhole location. This has nothing to do with the wood you have to remove for the locks internal springs, which I find simple and straightforward. Here is a photograph of one of the locks installed.
I changed out the lock on my GPR back about three years ago for the L&R RPL #05 made for that rifle and it was not tough to do if you just take your time with it. Took me about 45 minutes total (sorry I didn't make any photos), Anyway, the L&R lock is head and shoulders better than the original lock and made my GPR a very reliable and good shooting gun. You will be glad you made the switch!
From the way it sounds I don't think it's something that I would want to tackle. I probably would have to farm it out to someone. Also a little concerned about the touch lining up properly. The factory lock sometimes won't lock in full **** position. It seems the rifle needs to be in a horizontal position. Any ideas as to why this may be?
Well here is mine that was done by Jack Brooks. I like how it turned out and this gun is fun to shoot. Of course it shoots way better than the nut behind the butt does. I would do this again in a heartbeat with the GPR.
Ballshooter
50 Cal.
Here you go it was not that bad mine lined up properly. It was a bit of wood removal nothing hard took me like 30 minutes but, this was the first time I have done anything like this. I probably took too much wood out lol but, hey it works good. I had to cut down the sear bar a tad as it was dragging a little. I love my GPR!
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Mike in FL
50 Cal.
I've read that the new signature series GPR has an improved lock, no need for replacement. Anyone here have one?
AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
Sure, the spendy aftermarket locks are more traditional construction and are really nice looking, but I've never considered the need to replace the Investarms locks on any of my rifles. Mine all work just fine, although some tuning to smooth them out is needed. I've always been an advocate of set triggers, however, after very little work on my Trade Rifle (better sear plunger spring), it's much smoother let off, and accuracy with the single trigger is good.
I've also found that the Lyman/Investarms can benefit from opening up the touch hole to improve ignition. A .067" (#51) drill bit is ideal and makes a world of difference. Don't blame your ignition failures on the lock when the touch hole just needs o be a hair bigger.
I've also found that the Lyman/Investarms can benefit from opening up the touch hole to improve ignition. A .067" (#51) drill bit is ideal and makes a world of difference. Don't blame your ignition failures on the lock when the touch hole just needs o be a hair bigger.
Not necessarily a good reason to replace a lock. Does it go to full **** when not in the stock? If it functions when not in the stock, good chance problem is caused by something like the stock interfering with the sear bar or maybe the trigger is set too deep in the stock for example. Usually a simple fix.
@SDSmlf is on the right track. I agree that the failure to being able to put the hammer to hold in the full **** notch is likely due to the trigger plate being pulled too deeply into the trigger mortise. A shim between the trigger plate and the lock mortise should solve the problem. Do test the lock to see if the hammer can catch the full **** notch if the triggers are removed.
Doesn’t matter how ‘old’ the gun is. Does the lock work when it is removed from the stock? Could be issue with the fit to the stock. If it doesn’t work outside the stock, could be something as simple as needing some TLC maintenance, or maybe some screws worked loose over time.
Could be the tip of the sear lever rubbing inside the lock mortise.
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