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L&R RPL lock for a Traditions Frontier Rifle

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Aran

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I've had a Traditions Frontier flintlock rifle built from kit for about six months and have spent some time working on making it better, mostly on the lock.

Up until recently, I had a particular problem with the crampped setup of the lock. The cock used to droop down significantly and made flint setup vertually impossible. It also meant that the lock had very poor geometry and thus chipped flints large amounts as well as gouging into the frizzen. I decided to do something about it and read in one of Kit Ravenshear's books that I could heat the "neck" of the cock and widen it.
This helped a lot and allowed me to setup the flint much more easily. However, the lock still isn't Ideal and there are other problems which still hinder ease of flint setup, poor lock geometry and other dislikes. Which is why I want to buy a good new lock.

:yakyak: :grin:

Anyway, my actual question is about L&R's RPL locks. I'm fairly confident that the l&r lock for the traditions kentucky rifle (and a few other brands) will fit onto the frontier rifle. The issue then was whether or not the lock would work well for a double set trigger, like how the Siler lock by jim chambers has a fly detent which allows for double set triggers (or isnt this important?). I also heard about how jim chambers' locks were some of the best around. From there I wondered: wouldnt it be possible to fit a small siler lock, with the same dimensions as the traditions lock, onto the gun?
And if so how much working on the stock would be required?
:confused:

Hope someone can help
Thanks
 
The Siler, small or large, is not suited for this rifle, a completely different shape and style.

All of the RPL locks should have a fly but I don't see where Track of the Wolf or L&R's own site says anything about it.

Your main concern in choosing any lock as a replacement, other than making sure it covers the mortise of the old lock, will be the distance from the sear arm to the center of the pan is the same, both front to back and top to bottom.

Because your triggers are already placed and your flash hole can't be moved, making sure the distance between the two is the same is criticle.

You would probably be best served by contacting L&R and finding out which RPL lock is right for your gun.

Enjoy, J.D.
 
Hey JD, thanks for the info.
I'm pretty sure the l&r rpl model 1 (for the traditions kentucky etc.) will be the most likely fit for the frontier rifle. It has the same 4 3/8”³ x 7/8”³ dimensions as my current lock and all the other locks they offer are larger.
In any case I will double check with the peeps at l&r just to check if it is the right option.
 
Bought the L&R RPL model 01 flintlock as well as a new rear sight from stone wall creek today, great shop btw.

Will be sure to post some 'before and after' pics of the rifle in the near future. :grin:

Aran
 
Seeing as the new lock and sight are taking so long to arrive I decided to take some pictures of the rifle in its current state.
Note my finishing skills aren't that great, but the wood grain isn't the most beautiful either. :grin:

Here they are:
Flintlock_view_1.jpg

At a glance
Flintlock_view_2.jpg

The Lock
Flintlock_view_3.jpg

Lock at a glance
Flintlock_view_4.jpg

Close up of pan and touch hole alignment.
Flintlock_view_5.jpg

Notice how far down the flint hangs when the cock is not cocked.
Flintlock_view_6.jpg

Some gouging in the frizzen...
IMG_20130114_215609.jpg

And last but not least the bent sear. I complained to Traditions and Dixie about it being bent. When Traditions replied they said "If it is bent then it is meant to be bent". The sear wouldn't engage with the trigger at all and so until now I have been using tape around the sear so that the lock will fire. :cursing: :shake:

Please comment away. Always looking for tips and/or criticism. :v

Aran
 
The locks on my Traditions Deerhunter and Shenandoah are pretty much from the same parts bin and go bang reliably until the flint gives out. On the Shenandoah (now .46 bore to cure a damaged .36) it is not enagaging at full cock properly... have to pull it back twice. Haven't got that mystery under control even though the cure is obviously staring me in the face.
If L&R have a replacement lock for Traditions I haven't found out about it yet.
 
Aran,

That is the same lock on my Hawken build. Seams to be an ok one. Have not tried it yet.

Good luck Boet! :)
 
Aran, You might have to do a little research on the L&R RPL locks. The one pictured in the Track link above, the CVA/Trad #1 is for the older CVA guns having a lockplate that is pointed at the rear. Your lockplate is rounded.Their other CVA/Trad #2 lock looks like the one used on the Traditions Hawken. Looks to me like that lockplate may be bigger than yours. Probably best to call L&R and discuss with them.
 
The lock arrived yesterday and I fitted it today, so no issue there. Will have pics up soon.

Aran
 
I am interested in how this turns out as I recently purchased the RPL for my Lyman GPR.
Looks a bit rough and unfinished, but I have an older L&R lock on a custom Long Stock Hawken that works very well.
Looking forward to pictures.
 
Sorry its taken so long but here they are; little bit of patching up to be done still... wasnt the greatest fitting of the lock anyone's ever done. It certainly fits with little effort, just requires some patience, which I clearly didnt have at the time. :shake:


http://postimage.org/


http://postimage.org/


http://postimage.org/


http://postimage.org/
Full cock.

Anyway, there it is. I'm very pleased with it, much better functioning lock than the traditions one. Makes good sparks with good lock geometry and is much more robust than the traditions one which looks like a toy when you look at the features side by side with the RPL.

As usual, please comment away.
Thanks guys.

Aran
 
Very good! I am amazed by the difference in the feather springs. And the L&R has a pan!!! LOL
 
Not to be too critical here but it looks to me like yur touch hole is a wee bit too high? Then again it could just be camera angle. How is yur lock time?
Cheers & Tighter Groups: Eaglesenster
 
Not too quick, but then again I make my own powder so it could be that.
But if i wanted to change the venthole/pan height, what would I do?

Also can others please comment on the touchhole height or anything else.

Thanks guys
Aran
 
Another thing is that touchhole doesnt line up exactly straight with the pan, the same was the case with the old lock in place. Either the lock mortise is too far back or the barrel too far forward. Either way not much I can do about it.

Also if it would help I can try and take a better picture shot angle of the touch hole and lock.
 
Don't worry about it.
The location for a flintlocks touch hole isn't real important as long as it is a ways above the bottom of the pan and below the top of the frizzen when it's closed.
 

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