L&R Single Set Trigger Question

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jdixon

45 Cal.
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In the process of installing a single set trigger into a Kentucky flintlock pistol. I have fully inletted, drilled and tapped (the tang screw) this trigger into place -[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com...=14&subId=156&styleId=708&partNum=TR-LR-SST-C[/url]

Now that I have it in, there seems to be two problems - first, no matter what adjustment the mechanism will not always trip the lock (Pedersoli lock). Sometimes it is taking two drops of the trigger to get the lock to drop. Second problem, and the more irrating one, is the adjustment for the let off on the trigger itself seems not to be functioning. Running the set screw all the way in only renders the mechanism useless, backing the screw all of the way out and you have something less than a honest hair trigger, just barely touch the trigger and she pops off. I filed the housing down on this trigger some to get it inletted as I wanted and as I said, I have already drilled and tapped the tang screw hole - after all of this I find these problems. Returning this trigger is not an option. Any suggstions before I go to another trigger design and use this one for parts?
 
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I had similar issues a while back with the L&R single set trigger.

There are actually quite a few different designs that produce the same results, and L&R just happened to choose one that requires a degree of precision..now, I am not saying that L&R products lack precision in manufacture.....

Nevertheless, with all the side to side slop in the mechanism, and that the engagement surfaces are not even close to being square, that trigger will always be lacking.

I ended up machining out the inner trigger cavity and silver soldering in a new one with less than .002" side to side clearance, and installing .098" hardened pins (if I remember correctly).

It ended up working OK, but the initial forward set pressure was still massive. To reliably trip the sear with that design one cannot escape that horrendous set pressure, at least on a double set you have some leverage on your team.

Even with the modifications...the L&R single set is woefully lacking to put it mildly.
 
I have only seen one single set trigger I liked. I tried quite a few, including L&R's, on an early rifle but ended up putting a double set on it instead.

The only one I really liked is the Pedersolli single set that they don't sell any more. Muzzleloaders building supply has a new line of single sets that look a lot like the Pedersollis. They might be worth a try.
 
JR,

There is also an adjustment screw on the mainspring of the trigger. Perhaps this needs to be tightened down to get it to kick harder??
Just a thought. :hmm:
 
Yes, I have tinkered with the adjustment on this screw. If I reef it all the way in, there is sufficient force to get the lock to trip 8 times out of 10 on average.
 
Yup, we are talking about the same trigger. I noticed that slop before I started the inletting but, I didn't think it would really matter that much. Now after all of the handling and tooling that I have done to get it to fit just right, it seems to have gotten worse. Functionally, I don't think there is anything I can do with this lock that is worth my time. :cursing: I still want a single set trigger in this pistol (too bad but, there is insufficient room here for a double set - as strange as that would look that is what I would like). There is another offering from Track - see[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com...tId=14&subId=156&styleId=708&partNum=TR-SST-3[/url]
Any opinions on this one - it looks, with a little work, that it will fit the inletting that I have already done for this L&R trigger. :cursing:
 
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I've had little experience with the L&R single set, but the one I like the best and used on my .36 Lancaster is a Davis (the one with a roller on the spring and a cam on the trigger bar) I'm not sure if this model is still available or not.

Toomuch
..........
Shoot Flint
 
That trigger would probably work fine.

The bad thing is that the L&R set trigger plate is so big, and after inletting,so much wood is removed.

If you opened up the slot in the L&R plate and eliminated or hid that 90 degree "leg" of to the side, you could just install a single trigger from track, and re-do the pivot to optimize geometry. That way your tang bolt and inletting could stay static, because you are merely using the plate as a host. The adjustment screw hole could also be hidden quite easily.

:hmm:
 
I have hacked around the net some today looking up the other trigger assemblies that have been suggested. It appears that the Track trigger I mentioned earlier would be the closest in size to what I need, depending on how wide it is, I have not got that information on hand yet. It is about 1/2" longer than my original inletting, however if necessary it lookes like there is enough spare room on that trigger plate for trimming if it was necessary. I will get one on the way - junk out this L&R trigger - lesson learned. :shake: You are correct abou tthe spring plate being too large on the L&R, it is very difficult to engage the set fighting that spring while pushing the trigger forward, especially when mounted within a pistol.

A question about the position of the trigger striker - if that is the correct term, with the sear bar of the lock. Is it best to install this striker from the single set trigger in contact with this bar or just slightly below it? If below, just how much?
 
I install the trigger with a slight gap between the bar and the sear arm. .010" to .0312" would be the range.

If you install it with contact, it is difficult to determine if any pressure is being exerted, as this would be incorrect. With the vertical acting sear, the engagement surfaces of the sear "nose" and the tumbler shelf are very small, and any inclination of force acting on the sear is potentially unsafe.

The final consideration is wood movement. Granted, a sealed properly dried stock is very stable in the scheme of things, but just for nature's sake, a slight gap will eliminate that variable.

Others may have a different view.
 
The tolerances you mentioned are what I have done in the past with single what I cal lever triggers. I just had not messed with one of these spring loaded triggers before. Good point about the wood movement, I had not considered that.
 
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